What do I use to weld this?

[Commodore Woods]

I'm curious, I'm going to want to do some welding on some seams on my truck after I do some sandblasting to eliminate rust. I don't really have access to a mig welder much less any time on one but I do have quite a bit of time with an Arc welder or an Oxy/Acetylene welder which would you guys recommend?

[FORDification]

I would strongly recommend buying/borrowing/renting a MIG. I suppose someone with a LOT of experience could use a oxy-acetylene setup or an arc welder to weld seams, but it's gonna be extremely difficult to keep from burning through the sheetmetal with the arc, and you'll be risking warpage using the oxy-acetylene setup. Even with the MIG it's still fairly easy to burn through the metal, but with some practice it can be done without warpage or burn-through.

The one thing that might help (when using something besides a MIG) is the fact the the seams are double-thickness or more, so the possibilities of heat warpage and/or burn-through will be reduced somewhat, but not eliminated.

I think if I absolutely had to choose between arc or oxy-acetylene, I think I'd try the arc first, since it'll build up a lot faster. Just make sure you don't try to make a long continuous bead, since that will almost always result in warpage. Make short (1" beads) in alternating areas to keep the heat buildup down.

[Commodore Woods]

Thanks Keith, what size rod would you recomend?

[FORDification]

It's been too long since I've used an arc welder that I really am no longer up to speed with what's available and what would work best. I'll leave that recommendation up to someone else.

[fordfanatic]

I beleive 5/64 or 5/32 is the smallest available. I would go as small a possible. I've burnt alot of 19guage metal with arc. Turn it down as low as you can and the smallest rod possible, and maybe you won't destroy your truck. Good Luck. You may consider leading in the seams?

[Fordfool]

I am surprised noone mentioned wire welding. I bought me a nice 110 volt mig welder just for this. Sweet little machine.

[Randle]

If your set on using arc or gas I would use a 6013 1/16" rod on AC and run it as cold as you can handle it. This rod was made for sheet metal, but not normally this thin. Just tack it and move so you don't warp the metal. But I would recommend Meg or Tig.

[oldhalftons]

you can do it with a O/A torch if you have a 00 or 000 tip

the 000 tip will run a little cold so a mapp gas torch comes in handy to keep the surrounding metal hot so that the filler rod will flow into a puddle rather than than just melting and sticking (3 hands helps but you get fast) heat with the mapp, run short bead, grab the mapp, run short bead. repeat.

use regular anealed steel wire and cut a bunch of lengths so you can just grab one when you put the mapp torch down

a 00 will work but you can get alot of blow through if your not fast.

If there is no rust in your seams after blasting, you could allways just lead them in.

[Commodore Woods]

Forgive my ignorance, but what do you guys mean by leading the seams?

[FORDification]

Before plastic fillers (Bondo), there was lead....in the early days of customizing, that was what all the masters used. Leading is pretty much a lost art these days, especially after the dangers of lead poisoning came to light, but it's still being done. It just takes someone with a lot of skill and patience to do...but it's a more permanent job and less likely to crack or fall out.

[tcb1969]

I would caution against leading the seams on these trucks. Leading is all about the prep - the body seams are two narrow and too deep to be able to properly prep and tin for proper adhesion. Not to mention that is would probably take a pound of lead for each seam!



John

[OLEYELLERTRUCK]

A good product when doing sheetmetal welding is a good heat barrier available from Eastwood. Keeps the heat from spreading out.