I am doing the disc brake upgrade on my '67. My donor truck is a '79.
So far I have the radius arms, axle pivots, brake lines,shocks and coils springs, all disconnected.
The centerlink castle nut is removed but I cant seem to get the centerlink to drop free from the pitman arm. Is this pressed in? Is there a retainer clip? Do I need a bigger hammer? I would assume that it's just tapered and I could beat it out. But we all know where assuming can take us.
Also, does anyone know what size the nut is on the pitman arm, its kinda hard to measure accurately. It's on a '79, saginaw, integral (i think).
Suspension Q's
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Suspension Q's

'67 352 3spd 3.25 9" Custom Cab
'92 Mercury Cougar
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re: Suspension Q's
Got a pickle fork 

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re: Suspension Q's
Hmm, no I sure don't. I know what a pickle fork is, just never knew it applied to steering parts. I guess it acts as a lever in between the joint?
Is that the way it's supposed to be done? The only way?
Is that the way it's supposed to be done? The only way?

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'92 Mercury Cougar
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re: Suspension Q's
Don't know if it's the proper way,but it worked for me---didn't take alot of pressure to come off---couple of wacks
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re: Suspension Q's
If you're asking what the proper way is, then you need the tool specifically made for this.

This is a tie-rod separator, and will pop that loose in a matter of seconds with just a few turns of the bolt. I carry one in my toolbox at all times, for those times I find myself at the local U-Pull-It and don't want to spend all day beating on things with a hammer in close quarters.

However, many folks have gotten by with the pickle fork too. There are two different sizes....a small one for steering components and a larger one for ball joints. I've found with those that you almost always end up damaging the little rubber boots.
The extreme low-buck approach is to simply remove the castle nut, flip it over upside down and then screw it back on until the bottom of the nut is flush with the top of the tie-rod end, and then beat on it with a BFH. This will offer some protection to the threads, but if it's pretty stuck you might still damage the components.

This is a tie-rod separator, and will pop that loose in a matter of seconds with just a few turns of the bolt. I carry one in my toolbox at all times, for those times I find myself at the local U-Pull-It and don't want to spend all day beating on things with a hammer in close quarters.

However, many folks have gotten by with the pickle fork too. There are two different sizes....a small one for steering components and a larger one for ball joints. I've found with those that you almost always end up damaging the little rubber boots.
The extreme low-buck approach is to simply remove the castle nut, flip it over upside down and then screw it back on until the bottom of the nut is flush with the top of the tie-rod end, and then beat on it with a BFH. This will offer some protection to the threads, but if it's pretty stuck you might still damage the components.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special



My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special



My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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re: Suspension Q's



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re: Suspension Q's
I actually very much prefer this type...
KD Tools Universal Ball Joint Separator
But yeah, once you have one you'll never use a pickle fork again...
KD Tools Universal Ball Joint Separator
But yeah, once you have one you'll never use a pickle fork again...

Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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re: Suspension Q's
Oh, btw the little rubber boot thingie is already destroyed
Also, I didnt mention, I am able to climb inside the engine compartment,
the only thing in my way is a brake line, which I will need to remove anyway, then I can get a block of wood in there and beet tha hail outta it.
Only thing is though, this truck is about 10 miles in the country and the puller is a sure thing, knowhatamean. I think I'll go ahead and go rent a good one to git 'er done!
Thanks for the help men. Keith, I wouldnt be doing this if it wasnt for this site, thanks for all you do!

Also, I didnt mention, I am able to climb inside the engine compartment,
the only thing in my way is a brake line, which I will need to remove anyway, then I can get a block of wood in there and beet tha hail outta it.
Only thing is though, this truck is about 10 miles in the country and the puller is a sure thing, knowhatamean. I think I'll go ahead and go rent a good one to git 'er done!
Thanks for the help men. Keith, I wouldnt be doing this if it wasnt for this site, thanks for all you do!


'67 352 3spd 3.25 9" Custom Cab
'92 Mercury Cougar
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?pos=-3222