Bogging

[1970FordTK]

Ok figured I'd tap the well again, 1970 360 two barrel carb with C6 tranny. Rebuilt engine with reman'd carb, everything runs great to a point. Have to wind the engine up to start, runs great once started right up to the point that you floor it and hold it more than 5 to 10 seconds. Then it bogs out and throws a fit. Once you get it straitened out(waiting for it to stall out completely to restart), goes back to running great, unless you floor it again for that period of time. I have a sneaky suspicion what it is but would like to see if I'm thinking along the same lines as the folks who have lived with this type of carb for a lot longer than I have. Thanks in advance folks.

[BobbyFord]

"Type" of carb isn't the problem. Who rebuilt it is. I have gotten many terrible carbs from the local parts chain stores. They're rebuilt by anyone that can hold tools in thier hands. I rebuild my own carberetors.
Has this particular engine/carb combo ever run well or is this a new (rebuilt) carb on a fresh rebuilt engine?

[1970FordTK]

Engine and carb ran well for six months, carb is a Tomcat reman that is a copy of a 2100. Engine was rebuilt aprox a year before the carb was added to it. Took me that much time to get the body in order to put both together to at one time. New everything was put on the motor six months ago, if you need more specs on feel free to ask.

[BobbyFord]

I'm sure you've checked the obvious; timing, point gap, took plug readings?
You could have gotten a piece of crap in the carb.
Have you pulled the top off the carb. and peeked in?

[1970FordTK]

Yep I have taken the top of the carb off to look in, I'm slightly paranoid about trash in the fuel. Its clean enough to eat off in there if it wasn't soaked in gas. I have a see through filter on the rubber line before the fuel pump, the pump has a filter and the carb has a filter. (all just 6 months old). I figured something still could have gotten in and was not letting the seat open or close good so I checked and while in there checked the float. Plug gap is set at .036 and points are at .016, timing is still at 10 + I double checked it twice. I double checked the hold down screws to make sure they weren't slipping on the points and that the vacuum advance did move. Plugs have the same look as the day they where put in. I'm starting to lean to the conclusion that a friend that runs a "stock car" at circle tracks has said about these two barrel carbs of this era. Was hopping that someone else here had these same issues and that they cured it with the same thing. Although I'm not going to close my mind to what's wrong to just one thing, I've seen to many "small" things add up to a problem before. As I have said before, if you need more info on stuff just ask. I prefer the "living" shop manual I have here, nothing better than personnel experience to add to the knowledge.

[ford4x4fun]

I had a problem similar on a 4 barrel carp, the gasket, actually was letting air through only when your really got into it. Sitting at an idle, it would run great, along with normal driving. The Gasket was new, and was just bad. I replaced it and the truck ran good. When I switched it my Father-In-Law who was a mechnic for years was shocked at what fixed it. May not be the problem but is pretty cheep to check. My

[1970FordTK]

Got a chance to look at it today, I took the carb off of the truck to bring into the shop to work on. while fixing to take the top of the carb off I noticed something I couldn't see while it was on the truck, you see this was a factory A/C truck. The idler switch that adds to the idle level when the compressor kicks in was blocking my view of the bottom of the kick down linkage spring for the trans on the carb. The spring had broke, wich kinda hosed me off, I replaced all the springs 6 months ago. I replace the spring, put carb back on truck. Took said truck for a drive, I may put the broken spring back on. With the dual strait glass packs on the thing I now find it hard to keep from flooring it just to make widows rattle. Only thing I can figure is that the kickdown arm wasn't returning to position and making the thing go whacky. Leave it to me to get the defective parts from the hardware store. Thanks to all ya'll who have read this and where thinking about it and to those who repsonded. Big thanks to Keith for having this "online" shop manual available