Dakota Front End

[SMF Speed&Custom]

Has anyone here done this kit? I have a dropped beam kit for my 66 F100 but thinking that I might sell it and put it towards a Dakota front end. Only thing though is I do not know how much it will take to do the complete front end... I'd like to get dropped spindles and springs and lower the truck 5-6 inches. What price range am I looking at here? Would I have to change all my brake lines, master cylinder, wheel pattern, etc etc? I want to price this all out first before I go ahead and put my DJM beams in since I need all new bushings, brake hoses, maybe a spindle on the front now since one got a little messed up, etc. My 66 will be my daily driver and I want it to ride nice lowered and be comfortable.
Thanks a lot for any information and help.
BTW, I only have a 110 Millermatic 135 welder and MIGHT have access to a 220V welder but doubt it so that may be a problem.

[Jason]

What kit are you talking about?? or are you talking about pulling off of a parts truck??

any info would be nice

[SMF Speed&Custom]

Industrial Chassis Inc. kit for $675 I think the price is. I am just wondering how much it would be for a complete hub to hub including all the brakes, lowered spindles, springs, rack and pinion, and anything else I need.

[marz68]

You can build your own. I paid 20 for 4 feet of 2x4x1/4 but you only need 33" of this material for a 67-72 f100.
I am building this kit for my friends truck.

[SMF Speed&Custom]

I will look into the MII then. The thing I like about the MII more is that parts are easier to get and all over the place and I can get plain GM or Ford calipers and rotors for the front at Advanced or something...
Only thing is the steering and braking system. I don't have 2800 bucks for a hub to hub kit that Fat mans is trying to sell me. If I can do this thing for about 1800 bucks the MOST then I will be happy. If not then I will not do it. Any demensions you can give me on that crossmember you have there? What about the hats for the springs and A arms?
Thanks a lot for the info guys and keep them comming along with photos if you can.

[marz68]

I have only built mII's with air bags so I would need to figure out how to make some coil spring mounts, but thats not a big deal.
The picture shows a side view of the crossmember and upper arm mounts.

[SMF Speed&Custom]

If I do the MII kit I plan to do air bags. At least that is what I want front and back. Right now I want to plan out which front kit to use, how much it will cost and how much air bag kit will be COMPLETE so I know what I am looking at.

[SMF Speed&Custom]

Sounds good... Let me look into it. Thanks!

[customcrewcab]

you need a rear sump pan so your ok there. stock pedels and master are fine. you can use the stock colum if you pull the shaft out and cut the end off. its should be hollow and you can weld a piece of metal in so you can use a double d end. my buddy does it all the time in old mustangs and uses the double d staft. the power steering is two hoses that hook to the rack and power steering pump. use a 5.0 rack. its alot lighter, cleaner and lower.

[averagef250]

I've got a 5.0 mustang rack if you need it. Cheap.

[layedout72]

you can always run 1/4 inch lines as well if you dont want a fast drop. most guys run 3/8 but 1/4 inch is available. Another deal you can do is get "plugs" for the valves and drill them out until you like the speed. have a few sets for different sizes and you can adjust to your mood

[layedout72]

this just a little mock up of the MII that I drew out, to spec. Marz helped a lot with the measurements. The front end isn't where it should be to lay the frame out as I need to build it to set it with the bags collapsed and then I could run the rails how they need to be. I plan to start pretty soon on this. I may even go get the metal this weekend or Monday. I don't plan on fully welding it for a while, but I will atleast get it all tacked with a flux core wire.

[MadMaxetc]

I am doing the Dakota on my 63.

I am NOT doing the MII because in order to get it to work the right way you need a bunch of custom parts. (Steering Rack extention, tubular a-arms, Custom springs or coil overs, etc...) A stock MII whent on a CAR that was half the weight of our trucks and most of that weight wasn't on the front end.

A Dakota IS a truck and has the same GVW as our trucks, so the stock parts will last a long time. If you use the rotors off a 89 then you get 5 on 5.5 bolt patern, to get that on a MII you need custom rotors and hubs.

For a show truck a MII would work fine, probly better because of the custom stuff.

For a Daily Driver a Dakota would be my pick!

[customcrewcab]

well i haven't heard of any problems with them. i have a buddy with a powerstroke sitting on a mustang II. also aftermarket parts are alot stronger then stock. the fatmans crossmember is thicker then my f-350 frame. also you can order rear axles to match the 5 on 4 1/2 or get a 9inch out of a car. if your upgrading to 31 spine it the better way to go. more rim choices too. airbags hold 2500 a piece so 4 and lift 10,000 pounds. if i wanted a work truck i would stick with the drop i-beams but i think he looking to haul ass and sit low.

[averagef250]

Nothing about a dodge dakota ever struck me as being tough or built to last a long time.

The mustang 2 crap would probably hold up fine. These trucks are actually pretty light in the grand scheme of things.