por 15 info???

[capeclassics]

I swear by POR-15 and lots of good advice here...another caution tho....it has a rather short shelf life so don't buy more than you need or you'll end up with a brand new can of solid POR-!5.

[michaelbrainard]

The boys at POR15 really seem to hype their products...this isn't bad and I am not knocking them...but it seems that some of their direction and application REALLY pushes their own products. ( as they should....)

Metal Ready....how many of you have used it? I have to some extent....but 95% of what I have used POR15 on has been clean and freshly sand blasted metal...which you don't dare attempt to wipe with a cloth for fear of leaving a boat load of lint on it.

Marine Clean....this is some wicked good stuff for degreasing...but I think Greased LIghtning, simple green or 409 may be just as good....I know Greased Lightning will remove the top 3-4 layers of skin off your hands...so it has to be good stuff

I mentioned in another thread that I had used an epoxy primer over cured ( 2-3 days old ..i think?) POR 15....after scuffing with a scotch bright pad. On top of that was a urethane sanding primer and black gloss paint. This was on my inner fenders, battery tray, radiatior support...etc.. for my 69. Nearly 2 years ago and it is holding like a champ.

Thinner...POR insists to only use THEIR THINNER in POR15 for spraying applications....anyone tried anything else??

Not trying to knock the products because they are top notch, but I think you can save some money by using your head!

[460 crew]

I dunno about regular paint thinner working as I noticed their thinner was the only thing that half a$$ worked getting it off my hands and might have the same effect when trying to thin their product, others prob won't work. Just a thought though, I'll let you experiment for us. For metalready, I didn't use any just made sure everything was clean. I do have a few spots that have pealed and it was due to crud underneath I missed so my fault not the products.

[flyboy2610]

My thought is that it's best to use products formulated for use together.
You may get by using something else, but if it doesn't work and the job has to be redone, what have you saved?

[FORDification]

I agree. Yes, they're hyping their own products, but for a reason. They can't be responsible (nor do they want to get a bad rep) for other products having compatibility problems with theirs. It's the same way with regular paint. All the different paint vendors have done research to know specifically what will work with their product. You could probably save a few bucks by going with more inexpensive alternatives, but you'd also have to live with the possibility that it might not be best for the project.

Since I never want to have to do this again to my truck, I wanted to make sure it was done right the first time. Therefore, I followed their instructions to the letter, including using MarineClean and MetalReady. They suggest squirting the MetalReady on with a plastic squirt-bottle, which they also sell and I also purchased. Then you just rinse it off with the hose, so no rags need touch the area to be coated.

[michaelbrainard]

Good points well taken.

THe though of rinsing freshly blasted bare metal with water baffles the living heck out of me though!

[FORDification]

I know what you mean! The exact same thought was going through my mind, until I read further into their instructions. They specifically say to expect some flash rust to appear while rinsing, and that not only is it normal, but that POR-15 actually sticks to rust better than freshly-sandblasted metal. Here's a shot of the flash rust that appeared within minutes after rinsing the MetalReady off the bottom of my cab....and this was on a 90-degree-plus day, so the water was evaporating fairly quickly.

[michaelbrainard]

Sweet...what did you use to strip the cab? media blaster?

not to loose track of the thread...but how heavy is the cab after everything is removed? That is coming soon here....

[FORDification]

I just used a wire wheel in the 4-1/2" angle grinder, for most of it. The nooks, crannies and corners were fingertips and sandpaper. There are more pics of it on PAGE 42 of my project pages. (However, you're right....if you want to discuss this further, we should probably start a new thread.)

[hardtailjohn]

Many a dollar is spent on perfecting formulations for a new product. Sometimes just a very tiny amount of something will have a drastic effect on the outcome. I know for one instance, when mixing a 55 gallon batch of one of our paints, there was one product that was called for that only amounted to about 2 oz per 55 gallons... and if you left that out, or changed the ratio, BAD things happened (we wont go there ).. the same goes with the thinners... what are you basing your knowledge on? The fact that it will thin something out, or smells like the other thinners/reducers has absolutely NOTHING to do with what it can do to the product in say, 10 years... Just stick PRECISELY to the instructions and you'll do fine!
JH