por 15 info???

[oldfordnut]

now i have heard from every person i have ask that por 15 is the way to go so i was just wondering if there is a way to mix it good or if they have a premixed can so i can just put it on with like a temporary brush till i am older and can paint better.. and if so what type of primer would be best to use??

[heep70]

I just did the floors in my Toy. It comes premixed and if it sits for a few days they recommend stiring it and not shaking it. I applied mine by brush and it dried to an almost mirror finish. There isn't a primer, but you need to make sure the surface to be painted in CLEAN and the surface is ruffed up. They also offer Metal Ready, that preps the rust and bare metal for the POR15. You can get the application info off their website.

If you are doing a small area I would suggest getting the starter kit. The POR15 goes a long ways.

http://www.por15.com/

[oldfordnut]

ok thanks alot... i am planning on painting the frame and everything under it with it so we will have to see

[FORDification]

You don't use primer under the POR-15...it just goes down right on the steel. As mentioned, it has to be clean and dry, and no loose rust flakes.

Painting it in the future will be made a LOT easier if you topcoat it with rattlecans once it's tacky (not quite dry). Otherwise, you're going to have a LOT of heavy sanding to do to get anything to stick to it, and chances are you'd be unhappy with the end result.

However, they've recently come out with their TieCoat primer which is supposed to adhere to cured POR-15. I might be giving that a try in the near future, just to see how well it works.

[heep70]

I am going to try that etching primer out of the bomb can on my floors before I apply the herculiner.

[HOWDY69]

I was told I could use it on leaf springs. Is it flexible enough or will it crack when the springs flex?

[Fordfool]

It looks like these guys have given you all of the useful information so I will now give you words of wisdom while using POR15.

Do not use it directly out of the can, pour a bit at a time into another container and use it that way. Clean out the ring of the can when shutting the lid for the last use of the day. You will tear up the lid getting it open the next time if you don't get it all out...

Wear gloves and a hat. POR15 does not come off easily if you get it on either your hands or your hair. I am sitting here typing this with POR15 on both. You just have to wear it off over time. I did wear gloves, but no hat. Even with gloves some got on my hands.

Like Keith said, get something on that POR15 while it is still a little tacky. Will save you a lot of headache later. I used Krylon semi-flat black. I like the looks of it.

By the way, my frame is completely painted now and ready to be moved over so I can get my leaf springs and axles cleaned up and PORed and painted. Making progress. I still say the frames for these crews are a mile long! they are also much thicker than say the longbed ranger 1/2 tons. I chopped a '70 frame up this weekend and it weighed nothing compared to mine. I canot even lift one end of mine by hand. The 70 I could roll over pretty handily.

[FORDification]

I was told I could use it on leaf springs. Is it flexible enough or will it crack when the springs flex?

POR-15 is very flexible. It'll work just great on the springs.

When I applied mine I poured a little out into a small Tupperware dish. After the Tupperware dish was empty, I just let it set so the POR-15 would dry, and then afterwards I could peel it off. Heck, I could even wad it up into a ball, twist/flex it.....it's very strong. Great stuff!

[HOWDY69]

I was thinking about painting my diamond plate extendable rear bumper with the silver color POR15 but I was told it was kind of fibrous and would not hold up to UV. How about if I use black POR15 and prime it while it is tackey. Then I can paint it with one of those galvanized looking paints in a rattle can.

[fordman]

that really sounds like a watse to me the bumper may get rusty. but its not going to rust out like a cab floor or a fenderwell.

[FORDification]

I see no reason why that wouldn't work as long as the metal is clean and roughed up. However, while POR-15 is tough stuff, I don't know how long it would hold up on a bumper, especially on one that someone's regularly hooking a trailer up to, since they tend to get banged around pretty good.

Why not go with your idea of applying the topcoat on the silver POR-15 while it's tacky....except use the rattlecan silver for the topcoat instead of primer? That way, if (for example) someone were to drop the trailer tongue down onto the bumper and chip it, you wouldn't have the black showing? Know what I mean?

[HOWDY69]

That sounds like a good plan. A fellow told me the silver was kind of fibrous and didn't lay as smooth but the top coat might cover some of that and it is diamond plate to start with.

fordman: The bunper is one place I can get to easily to try out the POR15 before I pull off the bed and go hog wild. I quess that is not completely true I had thought of trying it on the override springs which never do anything anyway.

[1968 royal ranger]

when i bought my por15 the dealer told me to put plastic wrap on can before reclosing lid ,it keeps the paint from sticking to can, also pour paint into smaller cup and reseal can ,[dont let air get to paint in can] it will last longer , and the biggy is a small amount will go a long ways!!

[460 crew]

Here is my frame after I POR15'ed it.

[wildcard]

Keith,thanks for the info on getting something tacky on it before it dries. I just got my POR mag yesterday . There are some tips and how-to in there. But I don't recall that one. You probably saved me some headaches.They also have a new self-etching primer you can put on and paint over the POR with any "color or type of paint".