Those of you with a 302?

[thebannister8]

if your cooling system is top notch, then you may have a tight motor, or exess friction somewhere...3/4 seems high to me...how's your timing and do you have reasonably fresh oil in it....also do you have good oil pressure and is your oil filter working properly

[peanutman]

I have a 302. First question- is it running hot by the gauge or is it really running hot- boiling over, hot smell. Mine was running hot per the factory gauge- 3/4- to full. Changed the thermo twice- running a 195 thermo. Added an aftermarket manual gauge, it now runs between 165-195. During my restro i replaced the printed circuit. voltage stabilizer and such. You can't trust these factory gauges. Also never use teflon tape on your elec senders, it may prevent them from grounding, giving you false readings.

[layedout72]

I want to say mine ran around 190 on the water temp gauge in the intake. Sitting at idle in the driveway, driving it (the little I did) it dropped down a good 5-10 degrees.

[fitzwell]

right manifold gaskets...not blocking any passages

...whenever i get a new thermostat...i always boil it to make sure the thing works..

you may also want to run it without the thermostat to see if it will cool down more.....

fan clutch ok ( if you have a fan clutch )

radiator full of gunk

hoses crimped

sending unit correct

all good points to consider.

.040 302 in mine. I cant get it to build heat. 3core rad, Factory style shroud, factory fan. My gauge sits between "T" and the "E" at temp, winter or summer.

what about timing/carb ?

[dablack00]

Ok guys. General rules for the temp of you carb'd motor.

1. Run a thermostat
2. engine should not run colder than 180. I like at least 190, but above 180 is ok. Below 180 is NOT! Tons of cylinder wall wear at those cold temps.
3. If it over heats on the highway you have a coolant flow problem. Either you need a new radiator (because your old one is full of junk) or you need a new water pump because the old ones isn't pumping.
4. If it over heats in stop and go traffic, then you have an air flow problem. Either your radiators fins are bent and blocking the air, you need a fan shroud, or a new fan (with good clutch).

If this doesn't fix your heat issues, then you have an internal engine problem (timing / friction / overbore).

5. The stock gauges don't mean anything. Please get good info before you think there is a problem.

[scott123]

You could also have the wrong thermo in it. You can get a produce or candy thermometer in any grocery store.



Carefully poke it between the fins below the upper radiator neck and run motor until it gets hot (upper hose). You will feel it when the thermo opens. Check it that way and it will be an accurate reading of your thermostat.

[Banjo]

I used the candy or meat thermometer by just removing the radiator cap and sitting it down in the coolant and let it idle about 40 minutes, the head of the thermometer is large enough to keep it from falling in.

[JMcTurnan]

Its just mainly seems the gauge, but it shut off today when I put it into gear a few times, and when I was going home from work. Which sounds like a vaccume leak, possibly head gaskets?

[NM5K]

You probably need a new radiator.. I'd almost bet $$$ on it if your temp is actually
too hot and not just a flaky gauge.
What does your coolant look like? Clean or rusty?
Might try a flush if it's icky looking.. But a flush won't
cure a radiator that is clogged up. Will need a rerod, or
a new one if that's the case. If you get a new one, many offer
lifetime warranties.

[JMcTurnan]

This is 2nd radiator I had, it's pretty clean, and have flushed it out twice. It nicely flows through, so I don't think it's that.

[JMcTurnan]

Yea, I also dont have a shroud which does affect somewhat.

[fordman]

start the truck and run it with the radiator cap off of it. check to see if the water flows or runs through the top of the rad. if it does then the thermostat is working. also while it is warming up before it starts to flow look for bubbles in the wwater or large bubbles coming out of the radiator cap hole. if you have bubbles it could be a head gasket or a cracked head or something letting compression into the water jackets of the engine. if the truck is still getting hot and the flow is good with no bubbles and the outside isnt cover in bugs and dirt. you may be able to have the radiator rodded out to clean it. sometimes though if you have the radiator rodded out it will make leaks in it if the radiator is too old or worn out. this is just some thoughts and what to look for. don't assume that this or that may be wrong. its just things to look at. what color is the outside of your radiator? is it green rust colored or black painted? what color are the tubes on the inside of the radiator? white black or copper colored?

[scott123]

I dont mean to be the Town Crier, or the bearer of bad news or just an a-hole but, you are going about this all wrong. You have gotten some good advice here and seem to be talking yourself into deeper repairs than may be neccessary.

What I am hearing is, "My coolant guage seems to be reading high and my truck died once. I must need a new engine." (just kidding)

The correct route is "diagnose then repair or replace" Have you done any diagnostics yet.? ie: Have you actually determined that your truck is in fact running hot?

[JMcTurnan]

Oh know thats not why Im getting a new engine, I've had one for a while i've been planning to put in. I was just getting some general ideas, so I know when I pull this engine what I should do to make it ready to drop into something else.

[JMcTurnan]

Black Painted