Replace the race also?

Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels & tires

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HOWDY69
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Replace the race also?

Post by HOWDY69 »

I am replacing front wheel bearings for the first time. If the races look good do I need to replace them.

If so any hints on removing and replacing them.
69 F250, FE Specialties 410, CJ Valves, RPM Intake, Holley 4150,......10 Smiles per gallon
71 Clydesdale in many pieces; 302 roller motor waiting impatiently
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hardtailjohn
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re: Replace the race also?

Post by hardtailjohn »

Always replace the race/cone as a set. There's lots of ways to get them off... some guys use a big hammer and punch, some use a puller, some will carefully grind them in one spot to split them and then pull them... some use heat (quick and hot as much as you can around... don't get the spindle too hot)... I'm sure you'll hear more on here. I perfer to use heat or a cutting wheel on a die grinder to slot the race until almost cut through, then a chisel and hammer to knock it the rest of the way loose..
JH
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19674x4
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Post by 19674x4 »

it depends, you could change the race but i have been taught that if you take the new bearing before you pack it and spin it in the race while putting pressure on it, that will tell you. you want a smooth spin not a clicking or bouncing spin where the rollers have wore it down.
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Post by Fake Name »

always replace the bearing and the race together- they are a SET. Back in the day, when I worked at a machine shop, I always found notches on the backside of the housings to use a punch on the backside of the races. Then I'd use the old races as a driver for the new races. BE SURE they're seated in their boss all the way. No cutting, no heating required.
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390Nut
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re: Replace the race also?

Post by 390Nut »

:yt:

And if using the old race to drive the new one in, make sure the thicker side of the race is the side doing the driving. Depending on the drum/hub, as all vehicles are different, some go into the hub deeper, you'll need to drive the old race back out.
Paul
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