First run questions

[Ron_Hall]

Afternoon gents!
I'm ready to start the motor for the first time and breakin the lifters.
From what I understand it should run at 2200 for 20 minutes.
questions are:
1> does the run time have to be the full 20(makes me a little nervous) or can I do it in like 2-10s?
2> I cranked it over today and started and ran at 1500 rpms for a couple mins is that ok?
anything else I should look for?
Thanks
Ron
Couple pic's

[Busboy]

You want to be sure and use a zinc additive in your oil since Bro-bamas EPA removed it from current motor oil. I think the idea is to minimize the time that the new lifters are under valve spring tension, hence a moderate rpm will do that. With all that crap said; I don't run new engines at a high rpm, maybe 1200 max. Running it too fast can cause some coolant to burp out of the radiator too. Don't be too anal about anything. I doubt that major engine manufacturers do this either.

[BobbyFord]

I have a decent cam in mine so I removed the inner valve springs during the break in. As previously stated, you want a zinc additive and a zinc oil. Fluctuate the RPMs between 2000-2500 for at least 20 minutes. Make sure timing is correct. Change the oil and filter after the break in.

[WarEagle]

Definitely change the RPMs slowly during breakin. Don't let it sit and idle or rev over 3,000 or so.

[DuckRyder]

1) The cam came with instructions (you should also be able to find them online from your cam manufacturer) follow them. Here is one example;

http://www.compcams.com/Instructions/Files/145.pdf

Camshaft Break-in Procedure
Important: On hydraulic and solid (mechanical) flat tappet cams that require dual valve springs, the inner spring must be removed during break-in.
If you are using high load single valve springs, you must use a lighter spring (110-120 lbs. seat load and 260-270 lbs. open load) for the break-in period.
This allows the lifters to establish rotation and develop a good wear pattern. As soon as the engine fires, bring the rpm up to 2000 to 2500 during the first 30 minutes of operation. Slower engine speeds will not supply the camshaft with an adequate amount of oil for the break-in period. The engine rpm may be varied periodically between 2000 to 2500 to direct oil splash different areas of the camshaft. After the 30 minute break-in period, change the oil and filter to be sure all contaminants and break-in lube are remove from the engine. The inner valve springs can now be replaced.

If you do not understand any part of these instructions, especially the camshaft break-in procedure, please contact one of our CAM HELP® technical consultants at 1-800-999-0853. We’ll be glad to help you with any problems or questions you may have.

2) So you’ve already done the first few minutes (these are arguably THE most important), You’ve wiped/washed most of the assembly lube off the lobes and will now have a restart without benefit of all the cam lube.

The point of all this cam break in is to ensure the cam is run in with maximum lubrication via the assembly lube and splash lubrication. By varying the RPM within the range the cam manufacturer specifies you may vary the splash pattern on the cam.

You haven’t told us what cam (I can see it is an FE), but as has already been said, if it has high spring pressure then removing the inner springs is highly advisable. Vary the RPM within the cam manufacturers recommended range, use “break in oil” and “break in oil additive”.

Good luck - nothing quite like lighting a new engine off...

[Ron_Hall]

Thanks guys!!!
I did use oil with zinc and also a zinc additive and "Proton Plus engine condition" that the machine shop told me to run .

My cam is a SSI from PAW and so I don't have any break-in info about it.

Do I check the timing while its running at 2200? carb seems to be ok after I rebuilt it and the timing seems pretty close also. Oil pressure was 60 psi and temp only reached 160 during the 3-5 minute run.
I'll have to get a different tach because the one I have is an old Dixson dwell and tach and it only goes to 1500 rmp's which is where I ran it the first time I started it yesterday.

Also the exhaust pipes are only about 16" long(just for break-in) and I was wondering if that might be a problem during the break-in(other than my neighbor's ).

Thanks and I appreciate all the help!!!
Ron

[DuckRyder]

It might not be a bad idea to run some flex pipe off the exhaust, I probably would.

Since you have already had it running and everything seems close enough that you won’t have any issues then my advice would be to get a tach that is accurate in the range you need (~2200), fire it off and not worry about anything except making sure you keep it varying between 2000-2500 and do not have to shut it off for any reason in the 30 minutes. Change the oil and THEN work on tuning it.

It is bad enough that you have already started it and ran at 1500 and shut it off, you need to concentrate on breaking the cam in properly, if you wipe the cam it won’t matter if the timing is right because you’re going to have to pull it back apart...

I’m sorry if this sounds harsh.

The engine looks good BTW!

[Ron_Hall]

It might not be a bad idea to run some flex pipe off the exhaust, I probably would.

Since you have already had it running and everything seems close enough that you won’t have any issues then my advice would be to get a tach that is accurate in the range you need (~2200), fire it off and not worry about anything except making sure you keep it varying between 2000-2500 and do not have to shut it off for any reason in the 30 minutes. Change the oil and THEN work on tuning it.

It is bad enough that you have already started it and ran at 1500 and shut it off, you need to concentrate on breaking the cam in properly, if you wipe the cam it won’t matter if the timing is right because you’re going to have to pull it back apart...

I’m sorry if this sounds harsh.

The engine looks good BTW!

Oh great I probably wiped it already I guess I just pray and go for it..
Thanks for the help Robert
Ron

[DuckRyder]

Let us know how it goes...

Hopefully it will be fine, you won’t be the first guy to have to shut one off and restart it... and you can’t undo it... so press on. I just would not do it again if I could help it.

[Ron_Hall]

Let us know how it goes...

Hopefully it will be fine, you won’t be the first guy to have to shut one off and restart it... and you can’t undo it... so press on. I just would not do it again if I could help it.

Robert, So you feel next time I start it just treat it like its the first and let er rip?

Thanks
Ron

[DuckRyder]

I would.

Since you don’t have the specific cams break in instructions I would use one of the big cam manufactures instructions most of them are similar anyway.
The Comp ones I posted are probably as good as any...

[Ron_Hall]

I would.

Since you don’t have the specific cams break in instructions I would use one of the big cam manufactures instructions most of them are similar anyway.
The Comp ones I posted are probably as good as any...

I agree, I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks again Robert
Ron

[Ron_Hall]

It might not be a bad idea to run some flex pipe off the exhaust, I probably would.

Robert, I'm going to do the flex and even thought about putting the mufflers on for the break-in and the neighbors any reason for NOT putting them on or doesn't matter either way? Mufflers are new Flowmasters 40 series.
Thanks again
Ron

[DuckRyder]

I would say the only problem with putting mufflers on it would be if they were very restrictive mufflers (which 40 series FM are not) when it was tuned for open exhaust...

[Ron_Hall]

I would say the only problem with putting mufflers on it would be if they were very restrictive mufflers (which 40 series FM are not) when it was tuned for open exhaust...

Thanks you sir.. might make the neighbors a little happier also..!