Getting oil to my mains

[Ron_Hall]

Hey guys, need a little help.

little history first:
Started this engine build 16 years ago. Engine has been in my garage on an engine stand covered a plastic drop cloth and the crank has not been turned over. I had bought a master rebuild kit from a company called PAW in L.A.
The crank, pistons,timing chain,timing chain cover and oil pan where installed. The heads,intake manifold and headers where on but only a couple bolts to hold them in place.

Now 16 years later I can,t remember(74 ) if I did the install right. I removed the oil pan the other day and everything looks great. All the assembly lube and other oils are still on the parts. I still haven't turned the crank over but I need to check piston top depth which looks like it might be around .125 I can't be sure till I can move it and I was told not to rotate it till I got oil to the mains. so, do I pull the main caps or put the pan back on along with an oil filter, put a couple quarts of oil in it and run the primer adapter with the drill? or is there a better way?

Thanks for any help!!
Ron

[Busboy]

Don't worry about it. There is still oil where it needs to be. There is no load on the crank, rods etc. Imagine how many revolutions a crank does when an engine starts yet it takes a second to gain full oil system pressure. Go for it.

[HIO Silver]

Prime it before firing it up.

I miss PAW.....I used one of the master rebuild kits for the 200 in my 68 'Stang.

[tnlprt]

Pull the main and rod caps and clean the former assembly lube and apply new

[crazyhorse]

I agree with Mr TNLPRT.
It would be best to take it apart and put fresh assembly lube , torque everything to specs & give it a final inspection.
Why take a chance when it would be an easy job now & avoid any chance or error that may have happened over the 16 years it has been sitting ?
Good luck.
Keep us posted .

[Ron_Hall]

Thanks you all for the help!!!
If I pull the main caps do I need to pull the timing chain?
Ron

[Ranchero50]

Ron, you should be able to lube them sufficiently without pulling the crank or knocking the rods completely loose. Just pop the caps, spray the bearings down with brake cleaner if the old lube is dry or 'solidified'. If not, squirt some oil treatment or assy lube and torque everything back in place. If you find rust on the bearing surfaces you'll have to deal with it depending on how bad it is.. I'd pop the heads off and make sure nothing has made a home in the bores too.

Depending on the use and duty intended for the engine you should be able to get away with just a quicky inspection and final reassembly. Make sure the rotating assy turns over nicely without the heads on.

Good luck and post up some pics if you have any other questions.

[Ron_Hall]

Prime it before firing it up.

I miss PAW.....I used one of the master rebuild kits for the 200 in my 68 'Stang.

I would but I would like to check the piston to deck size before I put her all together just in case.

Thanks for the input!!

Ron

[Ron_Hall]

Ron, you should be able to lube them sufficiently without pulling the crank or knocking the rods completely loose. Just pop the caps, spray the bearings down with brake cleaner if the old lube is dry or 'solidified'. If not, squirt some oil treatment or assy lube and torque everything back in place. If you find rust on the bearing surfaces you'll have to deal with it depending on how bad it is.. I'd pop the heads off and make sure nothing has made a home in the bores too.

Depending on the use and duty intended for the engine you should be able to get away with just a quicky inspection and final reassembly. Make sure the rotating assy turns over nicely without the heads on.

Good luck and post up some pics if you have any other questions.

Thanks Ranchero50, tnlprt,crazyhorse,HIO Silver and Busboy

I pulled the first 4 caps and this is how they look. The oil on the Journals is just like the day I installed the bearings 15 years ago. From the looks of the first 4 would you say it was safe to not pull the rear main(bolts are lose)? If I pull the rear main what is the easyest to get it out and will I have to put new rear seals?
I want to move the crank just far enough to find TDC and check the deck to piston.

Thanks
Ron

[Busboy]

As I said.......

[Ranchero50]

I don't see anything to be concerned about. Better safe than sorry.

[Ron_Hall]

Thanks guys for all the help!!
I'm going to torque it back down later today and check deck heights. But, before I put the pan back on what about a windage tray? ...is it worth the extra cash? ...I could run over to Summitt and grab one.

Thanks
Ron

[Ron_Hall]

Okay, I have the mains pulled,cleaned,oiled and reinstalled. I put my mag base on the block with a dial indicator on piston #5 and brought it up to TDC, than put a depth gauge on the block measured to the top of the piston and it reads .138. can this be right? I checked 2 others and they were all about the same within +/-.002 Do I need taller pistons?

Thanks
Ron