Painless differential removal in junkyard
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Painless differential removal in junkyard
I am contemplating removal of a Dana 60 rear and springs from a 72 camper special. What is the most painless way to do this without the aid of a torch? I want the rear and springs both. Should I remove the rear then the springs or drop the whole enchilada at once? Thanks.
66 F250 camper special
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69 F250 Explorer
85 Mustang GT with 1900 original miles
92 Festiva with 538,000 original miles
86 E350 extended WB van
Various IH & JD tractors (5)
TT & XT500 mc's (6)
BSA, Triumph's and twenty Yamaha two strokes
- Ranchero50
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Re: Painless differential removal in junkyard
I don't think there's a good way to get them unbolted easily. The F250 has the comfort ride rear setup. I'd pay the yard to torch it out and be done with it. I don't think it's worth the aggravation to unbolt it in the yard.
'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue
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- two-bit
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Re: Painless differential removal in junkyard
IF you really want to go thru that much work without a torch.
I would unbolt the rear shocks, cut the park brake cable, cut the brake line, and then cut the u-bolts.
Drop out the diff, preferably onto an old hood, so you can slide it out from under the truck easier
Then try to unbolt the leaf springs. You better have a BIG breaker bar. Start on the nut side if possible. Get the nut first, then go after the bolt.
Make sure this truck is secured in the air VERY WELL ! You are going to be doing a lot of yanking and pulling on that chassis. Lots of potential for a seriously bad accident to occur.
In my opinion, if at all possible, go with the torch. WAY easier, and safer.
Two-bit
I would unbolt the rear shocks, cut the park brake cable, cut the brake line, and then cut the u-bolts.
Drop out the diff, preferably onto an old hood, so you can slide it out from under the truck easier
Then try to unbolt the leaf springs. You better have a BIG breaker bar. Start on the nut side if possible. Get the nut first, then go after the bolt.
Make sure this truck is secured in the air VERY WELL ! You are going to be doing a lot of yanking and pulling on that chassis. Lots of potential for a seriously bad accident to occur.
In my opinion, if at all possible, go with the torch. WAY easier, and safer.
Two-bit
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72' F-350, DRW, 360, NP435, Dana 70, 159" WB, P.S., P.B., 12' flatbed, 10,000 GVW.
72' F-350, DRW, 360, NP435, Dana 70, 159" WB, P.S., P.B., 12' flatbed, 10,000 GVW.
- eggman918
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Re: Painless differential removal in junkyard
A good cordless drill 3 batteries and 3 or 4 sharp cobalt bits drill out the heads of the rivets then beat out the rivets with a punch and 3# hammer take hangers and all if you drill in two steps say 1/4" then 1/2" it shouldn't take very long at all
Steve
The"Filthy Beast"- '68 F-250 Crew Cab 131"W/B 4x4 4BT compounds hx30/Wh1c,5x.012" sac injectors/ZF 5/NP203-205 /3.54 44 trutrack front/60 trutrack rear on 33's. 2nd owner
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The"Filthy Beast"- '68 F-250 Crew Cab 131"W/B 4x4 4BT compounds hx30/Wh1c,5x.012" sac injectors/ZF 5/NP203-205 /3.54 44 trutrack front/60 trutrack rear on 33's. 2nd owner
"Beauty is only skin deep....Ugly is to the bone"
It is more important to understand what you don't know than what you do know,because then you can start to learn..???
"you must deal with the attaboys and the ass chewing s with your head up and looking them in the eyes" T.J.E. aka My Dad
There are only three types of people wolves, sheepdogs, and sheep. What are you?