Attempt at Axle Bearing Fix

[Subzero]

So as many know probably I've had a ton of issues with my rear axle seal leaking on the passenger side. I'm going to attempt to change it out myself this time. I need to order all parts ahead of time so I can minimize down time next weekend when I do the job. What do I need to do this bearing and seal replacement? Is this a relatively hard or easy job? What's the process and any tips that might help a newbie such as myself? I need to buy everything I'll need. New Grease ( what weight), cleaning spray, tools, bearing, seal, brake shoes etc.
Thanks for the help

[ultraranger]

See my response, 3rd reply down in this thread;

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 05#p615062

[Subzero]

Doesn't really look like I could do that bearing press method. Do I need to take the whole rear end off to do this?

[ultraranger]

Doesn't really look like I could do that bearing press method. Do I need to take the whole rear end off to do this?

Lift trucks rear up on jackstands, remove wheels, remove drums, remove (4) 1/2" nuts (per side) near the center of outboard face of drum backing plate (will require 3/4" socket to remove the nuts), slide the axles out of the housing.

If axle seals are being replaced during this process, hold the weight of the axle up as the axles are being slid back into the housing. Letting the weight of the axles drag across the seals can damage the seals and cause them to leak.

[Subzero]

I like that method better . I will be replacing the seal and bearing together. Should I go ahead and do both even though the drivers side isn't leaking? I wish I could find a different axle as my gears are so worn that the truck makes a thump noise when going in reverse. I have some more things to do before that and it probably won't happen for another year or two so this bearing and seal should do good. Will I need to replace the gear oil? What kind should I buy? I can't find anything on that in my maintenance book.

[ultraranger]

In reference to what gear oil is needed; If you are changing the gear oil it will require removal of the 3rd member from the housing. Follow the steps above to remove the axles and then the 3rd member can be removed.

A Ford 9-inch will require (5) pints. This means you will need (3) bottles of 85W-90 weight gear oil. If the rear end has a Traction-Lok differential, you'll need 4oz of friction modifier. After the components are all reinstalled into the housing, pour the friction modifier in first, followed by the gear oil. It will take all of the first two bottles of gear oil plus about half of the 3rd bottle. Per the shop manual's instructions, pour the gear oil in until it begins to run out of the fill plug (fill plug is located on the drivers side of the 3rd member, near flange where the drive shaft attaches.

If the rear end does not have a Traction-Lok, disregard the friction modifier.

[Subzero]

I don't want to change out the oil if it takes a lot of time such as removing the 3rd member. A lot I'm sure has leaked out and I'll bet I loose some during the job. If I just top it off like you said through the cap I think I'll be good if I can get to it. I don't think I have a traction-lol either.

[ultraranger]

If you are already this far into it, there are only (10) nuts on the face of the 3rd member holding it to the housing.

If you don't take the 3rd member out, the gear oil should not run out when the axles are removed (assuming that the truck is on level ground).

[Subzero]

I went and bought everything I need. The total came to around $90 including $10 worth of decreaser for my POR15 job I'm doing. The bearing was $40 and the seal was $9.That thing is like the king of bearings too! I was suprised they had everything right in stock too. Around here not too many bumpside F100s are common, but there are lots of dents.

[Donnie]

That bearing & seal are VERY common, they fit a multitude of vehicle's.. That is why they had it in stock......the reverse thump could be coming from someplace else.........Donnie

[ultraranger]

... I don't think I have a traction-lok either.

...not that the door couldn't have been replaced in the past but, what does the code read under the "Axle" heading of the tag on your truck's drivers side door?

[Subzero]

It says 17 which= 3.25-Ford according to this websites decoder. I find it odd that the seal is more inward than the bearing is. What is the gasket that's on the axle made out of? Its number 1001 on this page http://www.fordification.com/tech/image ... ential.jpg . Will I need to replace it? I've made a three day plan that I'm hopeing will work well. I'm going to remove the axle one day then take it to a shop and have the bearing press fit on the shaft the next day then re-install it back on. I'll cover the open end by inserting a rad in the axle and tieing a plastic bag around the end so if it rains ( I have no covered area to work).

[ultraranger]

Yep, "17" translates to a 3.25:1 rear end ratio with an open (single track) differential. --of course, this is only good information if the door/tag are original to your truck. If the original rear end tag is still there, there should also be one on one of the (10) studs that holds the 3rd member to the rear end housing. If the info on it agrees with the door tag, then everything is probably original.

The gasket you ask about is a paper gasket. In some Ford rear ends it's made from a very thin piece of steel. It isn't designed to keep oil in the housing. That's the oil seals job. The gasket is to keep fine particles of brake dust from making their way into the axle bearings.

[Subzero]

Thanks for the info Steve. Everything else on my door tag is correct to my truck so its more than likely right. Should I go ahead and buy another one of those gaskets since the old might fall apart? The axle seal was replaced a month ago so the gasket was most likely also replaced but I don't know.

The reverse thump had me stuck for awhile but I'm pretty sure its from the rear axle. If you sit in the bed and put the truck in reverse it comes from underneath you. Ive never confirmed it is the rear axle though other than that.

[sargentrs]

Do yourself a favor, go to your local parts store and borrow/rent a seal installation tool. That seal is up in there a ways and you want to make sure you get it in there straight and true. You can see what I mean in my project thread, page 15, about half way down the page http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... &start=210. Disassembly is on page 3. You'll probably want to take the axle somewhere with a press to reinstall the bearings. I had to cut my old ones off with a cutoff wheel, hammer and chisel because I didn't have one. They are pressed on, then a retainer ring is pressed on behind them. Then I took them to a shop and had the new one's pressed on.