very sloppy factory transmission shifter linkage problems

[tiffys 1970 ranger 390]

hello guys...........

I am new member here and have a 1970 ranger with 390 and its a golly good truck. Last August my husband bought the truck and later in Sept he gave the truck to me but i am having factory transmission shifter linkage sloppy fitting problems and would like to know if there's GOOD after market floor type shifter kit as there are many choices to buy from. Sometimes it will kick in reverse from park and will move on its own as someday i will get hurt from that possible to knock me down to ground and run over me. I would like to try the floor type cable operated shifter kit. The truck has a C-6 and regular cab and strong running 390. The floor pan in the middle is flat which is good place for a shifter kit. Have any of you guys install after market floor shifter kit in your bumps and what are the pro's and con's ? Please help as the truck is getting dangerous for me and i am almost a senior.

thanks guys.........
tiffy's 1970 Ranger

[tsherry]

I have not installed a floor shift, but I did spend a little money and time to replace a bunch of worn out parts in the column shift that improved my Galaxie's C6 shift 'tightness' considerably. (That, and made sure that my parking brake would stop the car no matter what, and use it religiously).

[TNIceWolf]

tiffy.....that kicking into reverse from park was actually a known problem from the factory. Some of these trucks built with automatics even had a warning label posted on i think the upper side of the drivers sunvisor. I know i had a dent once that had the same problem.
So what you are experienceing isnt exactly abnormal. Personally i would look at refurbishing the existing linkage. Aftermarket shifters in these trucks arent exactly renown for curing the problem. Also take a good look at your parking brake.....it was set up to compensate for the issue.

Btw......the original problem wasnt the linkage.....was in the trans itself

[basketcase0302]

Charlie's right. There were recalls on several of our Ford trannies due to slipping out of park into reverse. I installed my B & M Truckshifter type floor shifter, ("ghetto shifter" as a few members here call them) and love it! They can be mounted in a few hours and are easy to reach and operate:
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw ... k+shifters
You can find them cheaper than that-if you look.
Also maybe Donnie or Bobby can pipe in here with a little more info on the tranny issue. I believe it might had been a part called the "parking pawl" that can be repaired or replaced to stop it from jumping out of park.

[mrollings53]

You might try replacing your shift collar with Dorman part # 83242, or a factory collar part # C7( or 5 )TZ-7228-A from a junk yard. I cant remember if the Ford part # is a 5 or 7, it's been a while since I replaced mine. The whole locking into gear action happens in the collar. The shift lever has a tab on it that locks into another part of the column, with a spring pressing on to the tab. These parts become worn out over time. Before I replaced mine I could cycle through all the gears without pulling the shift lever towards me, and now I have to pull out of park to move anywhere else.

Dorman shift collar

[tiffys 1970 ranger 390]

hello mrollings53.........

That very interesting to know as i never knew something like that would cause problems like that, how much trouble is to replace the gear shift collar kit ? Will it be easier to install the B & M floor shifter kit #80680 instead ?

thanks guys..........
Tiffany

[mrollings53]

It's not hard to replace the shift collar, but it might not be the collar itself. If your collar is visibly damaged, like the area around the roll pin for the shift arm is cracked or broken; then it might be the shift collar. If you collar looks fine it might be the spring inside the collar, or the tab at the end of the shift arm, or the plate that that tab slides into. To actually find out which you will have to take the column apart. Below is a diagram for the steering column. The exploded view for the automatic column is in the top left corner. Part #7A216 is the plate that might be worn out, #7210 is the shift arm that has the tab that locks into the plate, and #7293 and#7B071 are the springs that push the tab into the plate. As you tear down the column inspect and replace anything that is overly worn or broken.

If you need to replace the plate #7A216; Green Sales has one in stock. Search for "C9TZ7A216B" here http://www.greensalescompany.com. You will have to search a junk yard if you need a new shift arm, because I'm not aware of anyone that stocks one. The springs can be found at any good hardware store.

There used to be a good tutorial on here for replacing the turn signal switch, but the guy's post has disappeared. The procedure is the same; you just stop at the shift collar.

First disconnect the negative on the battery.

Remove the horn button/ring by pressing down and twisting. I think you twist counter clockwise, but I can't remember. Try both until it stops twisting then pull it off.

Remove the large nut holding the steering wheel on.

With a steering wheel puller, remove the steering wheel. Check youtube on how to use one.

Remove (or better just loosen) the two nuts (top and bottom) on the turn signal housing. Then slide the housing off the column. This is spring loaded so be careful. If you just loosened the nuts push down on the housing, then pinch the nuts together, then pull the housing off. The bolts hook into slots on the column. It might be tight because it's pulling the wires for the turn signal through the column. Disconnect the two connectors at the bottom.

You're going to have to depin the connectors. Take a couple pictures of the connectors so that you can put the pins back in the same positions.

Take a small screwdriver less than an 1/8th" wide and press the spring hook of each pin towards the center of the pin and push the pin through the connector. You'll need to be careful not to break any of the pins. Once the pins are all out of the connectors; pull the turnsignal housing off of the steering column, taking the wires with it.

Slide the shift collar off the column.

Look at the back of the turn signal housing. Here is attached the plate that the shift arm locks into when you put it in park. It is part #7A216 in the upper left corner of the diagram below. Replace it if it is really worn or broken.

If you have the Dorman replacement shift collar: Press out the pin that holds the shift arm into the old collar, and remove the arm. Remove the two screws and plunger/spring assembly from the old collar. Don't lose these screws. They are self tapping screws and may be hard to find.

Paint your new shift collar if you want to. They don't come painted.

Install the plunger/spring assembly from the old collar into the new one. There is a replacement spring included with the new collar, but I'm not sure I even used it. Try the springs out, use which ever provides the most resistance.

Install the shift arm into the new collar. Use a roll pin punch to drive the new pin (included with the collar) in. Now is also a good time to replace the rubber insulator for the shift arm.

Glue the included indicator to the new shift collar. It slides into the slot on the top of the collar.

Install the shift collar by reversing the removal instructions. The shift tube inside the column is spring loaded, so you will have to press the turn signal housing down while pinching the nuts together, and releasing them so the bolts can hook back into the column. It's a little tricky to get right. You know you have the bolts in the slots when the collar and housing don't spring off the column, or shift up or down (indicating only one of the bolts is hooked).


If you found an original collar: It could be as simple as replacing the original with the one you found, if the new collar already has the shift arm and plunger/spring assembly installed. If not, swap the shift arm and plunger/spring assembly over to the new collar the same as if you were using the dorman part. I would advise replacing the spring in the plunger for a new stiffer one, as well as using a new roll pin, and arm insulator.

Paint the new collar to match the existing interior if you want.

Reinstall by reversing the removal instructions.


And here's a good diagram to go by.



Edited to change how the turnsignal housing is correctly removed.

[sargentrs]

While this is for a 3 spd manual transmission, http://www.fordification.com/tech/3spd-column_01.htm, it'll give you a good idea of the problem areas. I rebuilt my 3OTT column with no prior experience for $85 in parts and about 6 hours labor including painting the column afterwards. It's not difficult at all. If you want to install a floor shifter, try just about any of these http://www.summitracing.com/search/part ... rd=shifter I'd call the tech line and make sure to get the right one for your truck. They're knowledgeable and helpful.

[tiffys 1970 ranger 390]

hello guys ...........

Is a B & M shifter kit # 80680 from summit racing be a good choice for my truck ? the floor hump in the middle is flat and would it be easier to use the floor shifter than the trying to fix the colnum shifter ? Its a 390/C-6 tranny.

thanks.........
Tiffy's 70'Ranger

[basketcase0302]

tiffys 1970 ranger 390 on Mon Nov 19, 2012 1:45 am
hello guys ...........
Is a B & M shifter kit # 80680 from summit racing be a good choice for my truck ? the floor hump in the middle is flat and would it be easier to use the floor shifter than the trying to fix the colnum shifter ? Its a 390/C-6 tranny.
thanks.........
Tiffy's 70'Ranger

Tiffy, the floor shifter gets my vote but you won't likely see many here to agree on it versus the original shifter? There are a few guys here that actually call them "ghetto shifters" (see my signature at the bottom of my posts). I got over 10 years of trouble free use from my first B & M I installed in my dent era Ford truck many years ago.
They'll solve so...many issues.

[tiffys 1970 ranger 390]

hello basketcase0302

I have to AGREE with you that the floor shifter would solve the problems so i am going for it. I probably will buy the kit from summit racing in Feb as i am on fix income. Its getting scary trying to park the truck when it wants to go in reverse like it has a mind of it own I am not sure if my truck is evil twin "Christine" the movie as it almost ran over me (not kidding).

tiffy's 70' Ranger

[TNIceWolf]

Tiffy

If I might make a suggestion here. I am not really arguing for one shifter or the other. I happen to like Jeffs setup and the factory column shift as well. But what I would suggest is this. Since you arent planning on buying right away and since troubleshooting is free and you are on a limited budget like most of us on here......Why not find out if its actually the shifter at fault before buying one? Something like chocking all the wheels front and rear....disconnecting the linkage at the transmission ....placing the shifter arm on the trans firmly in park.....and then starting the truck and let it run a good while to see if it is just the trans jumping in gear and not caused by the linkage. Just something to consider. While you are under the cab it might also be a good idea to check out the condition of your cab mounts as well. Damaged or failing mounts could also be the source of linkage misalignment and faulty function. Something else that occured to me is that it wasnt that uncommon for some shadetree mechanic to convert a 3 speed manual shift linkage to an automatic. That can cause the same sort of condition. Lots of things you can look at to make sure you arent spending money unwisely.

Charlie