Clutch Fluid question

[smclaren]

Hi Guys

Clutch Fluid question this time.

I have begun investigating my o' so saggy clutch pedal.

After 5mins of trying to open the master cylinder, finally I see the fluid is way down (don't think that's the saggy issue, but still need to fill it up).

The stuff thats in there is black/dark brown, real thick and gooey looking.

Q. The manual suggest ESW-FM-6C2 or Heavy Duty Rotunda R1-38. I am struggling to find a modern day cross reference here, and thought that I would quiz the forum on what's a recommended modern fluid.

Q. Should I use the same fluid for the brakes ?

Q. I am thinking I may as well bleed the system whilst I am at it. Is this a smart or dumbass move ? (saggy peddle syndrome, with some grinding going from 4->3 at speed, and general non-positive feel).

I am obviously trying everything prior to the big "gearbox out" solution.

As usual, I appreciate any and all thoughts.

Steve

[Redcap]

I didn't know that squirt clutches were available in these old beasts!

[basketcase0302]

Steve,

I too didn't know of a 70's era Ford truck with a wet clutch.
I had the same problem with my wife's old BII.
Bleeding it's gotta help, especially if it's low on fluid.
The one on the BII's had a bleeder valve on the slave cylinder to accomplish this.
The BII one used the equivalent of our DOT3 brake fluid, not sure of your application though.

Jeff

[smclaren]

Thanks Jeff and Aaron for the reply's.

We may a Aussie/Yankie terminology collisison here. I have a hydraulic system, pedal in the cab, out to the maser cylyinder on the firewall, hydraulic line to the slave cylinder sitting on the gearbox, and a dry cultch plate at the flywheel.

Have you guys got someting different ???

Jeff, your explaination of the hydraulic bleed is exactly what I had in mind. I'll get it done first thing in the morning and report back !

Steve

[ToughOldFord]

50's and 60's Fords have hydraulic clutches, in the 70's they went to mechanical (apapparently not everywhere), and in the 80's they went back to hydraulic. I hate hydraulic clutches.

If bleeding it at the bleed screw doesn't work, often it won't, you can also "bleed" it by pushing the air back up to the M/C by pumping the slave cylinder.

[sideoilerfe]

50's and 60's Fords have hydraulic clutches, in the 70's they went to mechanical (apapparently not everywhere), and in the 80's they went back to hydraulic. I hate hydraulic clutches.

.

Maybe early 60's. My 65 CS had a mechanical.

[ToughOldFord]

You're right, I should have narrowed that down. The '67 I just parted out was mechanical. My '62 was hydraulic, but someone converted it to mechanical somewhere in its past life.

[kaptnkaos]

My '65 F-100 swb also had a mechanical clutch...
Dang, I wish I had that truck back...
I averaged 26 mpg w/a industrial 240 w/a 3 in the tree.

KaptnKA S

[390Nut]

Should be plain old Glycol in there. Brake/clutch hydraulic fluid has remained pretty much unchanged until the advent of DOT 5 (silicone) and with it DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 (both compatible with old-school DOT 3).

Do NOT mix DOT 5 with anything else! Just don't do it!

Pull the cover off the master cylinder, and swirl the fluid around to mix up all the crud that has settled over the years. A small wooden dowel or even an old toothbrush will help get the junk out of the corners.

Try to remove as MUCH fluid as you can FROM the master cylinder using a siphon (30cc syringes from the drug store or your local veterinarian, minus the needle part, work great for this!) and add clean fluid.

Then bleed as normal, until the fluid coming out is crystal clear. It might take awhile to get it thoroughly cleaned out, but it works wonders having new, clean fluid in there. Everything else; moisture, air, even dirt, will compress (hydraulic fluids don't compress!) making for a softer pedal feel.

Do it once a year, whether you think you need to or not, especially in moisture heavy environments (that means all us Northwest webfoots!) Having clean fluid in the lines keeps the rust buildup to a minimum, and with the brake lines, keeps the brake shoes/pads more likely to wear evenly because the pressure on the lines is more likely to be evened out.

[smclaren]

Thanks Paul ... great advice.

[smclaren]

Hey Guys,
Job done, I overhauld the master and slave cylinders, bleed the system, trucks on the move again ,

and it's official ....
Hydraulic clutches are the pits ....

[Redcap]

Hey Guys,
Job done, I overhauld the master and slave cylinders, bleed the system, trucks on the move again ,

and it's official ....
Hydraulic clutches are the pits ....

I wouldn't think it too hard to convert your truck to a mechanical setup...

[ezernut9mm]

except that everything is on the other side for the right hand driver. he could probably find a stock z bar linkage and cut off the arms and flip them and reweld them on the opposite sides though.

[Redcap]

except that everything is on the other side for the right hand driver. he could probably find a stock z bar linkage and cut off the arms and flip them and reweld them on the opposite sides though.

Exactly!