Bending some brakelines

mrtleavitt · Post by **mrtleavitt** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 4:53 pm

I'm going to start my disc brake conversion for my '69 F100 and I was wondering on how to bend my lines. Where the lines go into the master cylinder it does 2 or 3 loops. It would look a lot better if they weren't there. Do I need to make them exactly the same as my old lines or can I make them look a little cleaner and go without the loops? Someone told me the new lines need to be exactly the same length as the old ones. Is that true?

JWW · Post by **JWW** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 5:04 pm

I remember reading a post about those loops. Keith had mentioned they are there to prevent the vibration from the road. The loops serve a purpose. I wouldn't recommend altering the loops.

Thunderfoot · Post by **Thunderfoot** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 5:23 pm

Yep, the loops are there to allow for some slack when the cab and frame move from each other, it gives the lines some room for flex and movement.
The length does not matter so no worries there...

ezernut9mm · Post by **ezernut9mm** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 6:03 pm

i belive it is three. a beer can works good for those...

wt4speed#2 · Post by **wt4speed#2** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:27 pm

ezernut9mm wrote:i belive it is three. a beer can works good for those...

Unopened to make it rigid enough to perform the bend, and refreshments afterwards.

seattle67 · Post by **seattle67** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:47 pm

This would be good to read before you start.

http://www.fordification.com/my67-p34.htm

Post by **FORDification** » Sun Jan 20, 2008 10:30 pm

You know how you can take a thin piece of metal and bend it back and forth, to the point where metal fatigue sets in and it breaks? Well, those loops in the brake line to the master cylinder are there to prevent metal fatigue on the brake lines. Since the cab is mounted on rubber isolators, and the master cylinder is mounted to the cab, it's likely to move around a bit, whereas the lines on the frame won't move at all. Over time, metal fatigue will set in and those lines will fail...unless you have those loops. I'd recommend at least two loops. I just wrapped mine around a spray-paint can.

It makes absolutely NO difference on the length of line....the hydraulic pressure will remain exactly the same whether it's 12" or 24" long.

ezernut9mm · Post by **ezernut9mm** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:08 pm

wt4speed#2 wrote:
ezernut9mm wrote:i belive it is three. a beer can works good for those...
Unopened to make it rigid enough to perform the bend, and refreshments afterwards.

exactly!

wt4speed#2 · Post by **wt4speed#2** » Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:15 pm

ezernut9mm wrote:
wt4speed#2 wrote:
ezernut9mm wrote:i belive it is three. a beer can works good for those...
Unopened to make it rigid enough to perform the bend, and refreshments afterwards.
exactly!

Great minds think alike. Reckon we'll have a chance to "bend" a few in April 'eh. Elbows is what I'm thinking.

ezernut9mm · Post by **ezernut9mm** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:16 pm

surely.

jengle · Post by **jengle** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 12:02 pm

I just did a disc swap on my galaxie--here's a tip--NAPA sells two kinds of brake line. They carry the standard, hard line that is very rigid and a new type that you can bend by hand. It still takes a double flare like the old style, but you can make bends by hand! I still use the tubing bender when possible, but it really helps to have this soft kind when you have to tweek the lines to get them to fit just right.

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