Rear Axle locked up

[DuckRyder]

Oh,

The top bellhousing bolts are best accessed from the top behind the engine with an box end wrench in my experience, you can get the starter through the fender well, and the linkage just presses apart. You are supposed to replace the plastic bushings, which can usually be found in the "HELP" section at the local box auto parts store... You will have to go look, no one in there will have the slightest idea what you are talking about.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Have you tried manipulating the parking linkage with the pan off to see if the output shaft will turn?

I think I would be very inclined to pull the tailshaft (on a long bed with a 2-piece drive shaft it slides right out) and take a look at the complete parking linkage.

Support the trans, remove the rear crossmember, remove the extension housing bolts, slide extension housing and tail shaft out of transmission.

I did not notice any large chucks of metal. There was some rotted rubber from the pan seal but that was minimal as well.

Where is & what does it look like
1. output shaft
2. tailshaft
3. parking linkage

I was assuming that this is a parking pin/pawl issue (ie: I'd need to drop trans & look). This parking linkage (possibly the issue?) is located in the tailshaft, and would not require removing the entire trans? correct?

[DuckRyder]

Check my post number 43 and 44 (page 3 I think).

The extension housing is the rearmost portion of the transmission, you will find 6 bolts holding it on. It contains the output shaft and bearing.

EDIT Tailshaft = Output shaft

YOKE = where the driveshaft bolts on.

Parking linkage = You should be able to see a rod above the valvebody that goes toward the rear. With the truck properly chocked (it already is right) have someone move the shifter (or shift the transmission if the linkage is disconnected) and see if the park linkage rod is moving. You can see it in several pictures on the 460 forum I linked, the valve body is out of that transmission though, you will have to try to glimpse it behind the valvebody.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Thanks Duck.

Does that huge bolt on the end of the output shaft need to be removed in order to remove this rear housing?

I found the 6 bolts; 2 loose now, 2 COVERED in grease and 2 rusted on there TIGHT... Gotta love the variety.

Once I can get this back housing off, the 'parking linkage' i'm looking for, is it in the part-to-be-removed or is it in the transmission (now accessible that that rear housing is off)?

Thanks again. and THANK YOU for posting help on a Sunday! I feel like I should mail you a check!

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Ignore that question - you answered it already!

I'll start workin on those rusty/greasy ones.

Thanks!

[fordman]

no the big nut doesnt have to come off. and you just have to see if the rod is stuck in the pawl. if it is unstick it.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Pictures & Questions!

Questions can be found in the 'description' per picture.

Thanks!

Cooke

[fordman]

the first copper thrust washer shouldnt turn its fine were it is i think.
the second pic looks normal to me.

the third pic is ok i think too.
how is the parking pawl think? can you shift it?

[DuckRyder]

Sorry I was gone ... trying to plan a wedding...

The copper thrust washers look good, the parking pawl is hard to tell about, but when you removed the gov distribution block (the cast part with the tubes) the park gear should have been behind there, was the pawl locked into the gear with the transmission selector in something other than park?

[carnuck]

The parking pawl is on the left side of copper plate jpg. See if it's stuck

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Nothing stuck there. I can shift it from the exterior and everything shift appropriately on the inside. I even see how the spring activates and locks the gears into park.

I'm going to put the extension housing back on tomorrow (yes, I've had it covered this time to protect from water/rust).

1. I have to put transmission fluid back in. Where do you do this? Do you add transmission fluid in the same place that you check the trans fluid levels?

2. How much do I need to add? I had the pan & ext housing off & emptied all of it.

3. Is there a possibility (if so, what %) that this flush of the old fluid & inputing new fluid may unlock whatever was wrong???

Thanks all - sorry I haven't posted recently. My daughter's 5 mo old & takes a LOT of my time.

Cooke

[AlleyCat]

Nothing stuck there. I can shift it from the exterior and everything shift appropriately on the inside. I even see how the spring activates and locks the gears into park.

I'm going to put the extension housing back on tomorrow (yes, I've had it covered this time to protect from water/rust).

1. I have to put transmission fluid back in. Where do you do this? Do you add transmission fluid in the same place that you check the trans fluid levels?

2. How much do I need to add? I had the pan & ext housing off & emptied all of it.

3. Is there a possibility (if so, what %) that this flush of the old fluid & inputing new fluid may unlock whatever was wrong???

Thanks all - sorry I haven't posted recently. My daughter's 5 mo old & takes a LOT of my time.

Cooke

Yes ,you add fluid thru the dipstick/filler tube.I'd suggest pouring in 4 quarts then start the truck.Move the shift lever thru the gears then put it back in park and recheck the fluid.Fluid level must be checked with the engine running.I would guess you are going to need 6 or 7 quarts total.I've never done much auto trans work so hopefully someone will chime in to answer the last part of your question.

Enjoy the time with your daughter.They grow up way too fast.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Thanks Clay.

You're the man. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[hotrodfeguy]

I just read this one for the first time today sorry. But as I was reading I was thinking he should pull the axles and spin up the drive train on jackstands and see were the problem lies. But I see we have it narrowed down now and I think the driveshaft center bearing is a good place to look I had one go myself on a dentside supercab.