Rear Axle locked up

[DuckRyder]

Oh, this post on 460 ford has a lot of good pictures of the innards of a C6.

http://www.460ford.com/viewtopic.php?t=14248

If you look at the post "Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:35 pm Post subject: " by "jones" you can see the park pawl actuating rod in several of the photos. (like the second one and last one)

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Wow. Thanks guys. Those are some great pictures & links. I hope that I never ever ever have to see that much of my own internal transmission (wow... that's a lot of parts & things I know nothing about).

Yes, to answer your question, the cab mount is severely rusted. I'll post pictures soon for you all to see of the linkage & cab mounts and we'll go from there.

Thanks again. Someday I'll get this darn truck out of "P"

Cooke

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Well, despite the mounts being rusted, the linkage feels like it's in good shape. sorry i haven't posted pictures... 4 mo. old daughter has had a rough few weeks.

Anyways, I got the '72 transmission manual from haynes (off LMC truck) yesterday. So I'm going to start reading up. In a few weeks I'll have some people up & we'll pull the current/original one out.

Quick questions re: trans swapping:
1. I found one @ a local junkyard, being offered @ $150 (if I pick it up). Is this a reasonable deal and how do I know the transmission is actually a working transmission?
2. How much does a c6 actually weigh?
3. How likely is it that when I get the current one off, I'll be able to replace (easily?) JUST the parking pin/spring and have it fully functional again?
4. Assuming I have the help of at least one other person (who has not removed a transmission either) how long should I anticipate it'd take to get the old one out/off?
5. Torque convertor - should it be replaced (regardless of its condition) when the transmission is off? Is there anything else, that because the transmission is off, should be replaced immediately/just-in-case?

Thanks guys.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Thanks avg.

Any advice on:
"3. How likely is it that when I get the current one off, I'll be able to replace (easily?) JUST the parking pin/spring and have it fully functional again?
4. Assuming I have the help of at least one other person (who has not removed a transmission either) how long should I anticipate it'd take to get the old one out/off?
5. Torque convertor - should it be replaced (regardless of its condition) when the transmission is off? Is there anything else, that because the transmission is off, should be replaced immediately/just-in-case?"

?

I was under Bonnie this morning (as my wife calls, "looking up her skirt" ) and seeing how much of a pain in the butt getting that c6 out would be. It looks surprisingly easy. All the bolts are loosen a little now except for the large bolts on the two braces that go under the transmission. Those bolts are on their TIGHT. Any suggestions on how to get those loose!?

Thanks,
Cooke

[fordman]

are you talking about the two bolts close together or the crossmember bolts on each side of the frame. because that has to come out also to pull the trans. but either way a impact is the best thing to use. the next would be a breakover bar and / or a cheater pipe on the breakover bar. a cheater pipe is any piece of pipe that fits over the handle of the breaker bar to just give it exxtra length. you really dont want to put a cheater pipe on a ratchet. it could break the internal parts of the ratchet

[Bonnie_72_F100]

are you talking about the two bolts close together or the crossmember bolts on each side of the frame.

Yes. Those are the ones I'm talking about. Thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to go the route of an impact wrench!

Cooke

[carnuck]

It may be stuck in park or the wheel bearings may have dry seized from sitting. Drop the driveshaft and you'll know where the prob is. On my old 1 ton, the driveline Ebrake rusted to the driveshaft!

oops! just noticed there was more posts. Drop the pan and you should be able to get at the valve body enough to pull the park lever out of the engaging pawl. (haven't looked inside a C6 in some time)

[briney]

what about just undoing the rear trans mount and slipping the extension housing off ? the park pawl should be under there. you can get some idea of what's going on without pulling the trans right out.

[fordman]

are you talking about the two bolts close together or the crossmember bolts on each side of the frame.

Yes. Those are the ones I'm talking about. Thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to go the route of an impact wrench!

Cooke

cheater pipe ? instead?

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Ok,
Dropped the trans pan. I found a yellow plastic piston rod & piston (with small rubber seal) on it IN the pan. Did this drop out from upper/inside the transmission?

What is this part?

Is is supposed to be loosely floating around in the pan!? Need this information before I continue to drop entire tranmission out!

HELP!!!!

[BobbyFord]

It's the stock dipstick tube hole block-off plug that was installed on the assembly line to prevent anything from getting into the trans along the way. Which leads me to belive that your transmission has never been serviced in it's lifetime. Obviously time for a complete rebuild. Pull the trans.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

awesome. thank you.
how many trans-to-engine bolts are on the top? how do you recommend getting to them? any advice on how disengage the linkage w/o breaking anything??

[fordman]

there are two on top two on the sides and the starter with two or three more bolts and there is one more on the drivers side at the bottom. then there is also the front bottom cover plate that will give you access to the torque converter which has three or four nuts on it to take off. and then remove the rear mount and it will come out.

However have you been able to get to the parking pawl yet and see if its jambed yet or not? can you shift the trans out of gear into any other gear? i would try to unjamb it first before you dump alot of cash out for a rebuild. it has never been serviced yes but changing the fluid and filter is what you can do on your own if you can get the trans to free up if thats the problem.

[Bonnie_72_F100]

Guys,
Is it possible to remove the trans w/o removing the forward cross member (only the rear)?

Let me know as this is on the agenda for TODAY!

Thanks,
Cooke

[DuckRyder]

Guys,
Is it possible to remove the trans w/o removing the forward cross member (only the rear)?

Let me know as this is on the agenda for TODAY!

Thanks,
Cooke

Not on a FE/C6 with the engine in the truck.

Have you tried manipulating the parking linkage with the pan off to see if the output shaft will turn?

I think I would be very inclined to pull the tailshaft (on a long bed with a 2-piece drive shaft it slides right out) and take a look at the complete parking linkage.

Support the trans, remove the rear crossmember, remove the extension housing bolts, slide extension housing and tail shaft out of transmission.

While the fact that it has probably never been services isn't good, unless there is significant metal, or large chunks of friction material in the pan I would not jump straight to overhauling the trans if I could "unlock it" without doing so.

If you do pull the trans, you are going to have to use a floor jack, don't get the idea that you can bench press it in and out like I've done with manuals and C4's... She is VERY heavy...