Pulling engine advice (transmission or engine alone)

idahiboy · Post by **idahiboy** » Wed Oct 10, 2018 12:28 pm

Planning ahead for my rebuild on this "68 F250 Highboy.

I have read on this site and other sites, about pros/cons of pulling engine with or without transmission. Main issue seems to be just getting good access to torque converter/flex plate, etc to get all bolts loose. BUT, I read where the engine block also has metal dowels/pegs, that can be hard to loosen and/or align.... and that it can be a challenge to get things lined up well when re-installing. I have NEVER done either, so looking for advice.

I have access to a good engine hoist and engine stand. I can remove my front clip, so not have to raise engine up so high.... If I weren't so tight on space in my garage, I would pull with transmission.
I thought that without having to lift high, it would be "more direct" line up with the transmission and torque converter.... "IN THEORY"

Do people have advice on pulling with or without transmission. The current transmission works well and I haven't had need to rebuild/service it.
If the "standard" way of doing this is pulling both together just tell me. Or if there are just too many work arounds when leaving transmission in, then JUST TELL ME!

Have just never done this before, so want to make sure I have a good plan in place
thanks!

1972hiboy · Post by **1972hiboy** » Wed Oct 10, 2018 12:59 pm

Highboy refers to 4x4. is yours indeed a 4x4? if it is most came with manual transmissions, is yours a 4x4 automatic? Please specify your trucks specs?

idahiboy · Post by **idahiboy** » Wed Oct 10, 2018 5:53 pm

1972hiboy wrote:Highboy refers to 4x4. is yours indeed a 4x4? if it is most came with manual transmissions, is yours a 4x4 automatic? Please specify your trucks specs?

Yes sorry, I was using the wrong terminology about the engine components. It is a 4x4 manual transmission..... I meant to reference the clutch/bellhousing.... all the "stuff" where engine hooks up to transmission

thanks for pointing that out

regards
-patrick

cep62 · Post by **cep62** » Wed Oct 10, 2018 7:09 pm

Especially with a 4x4 if there's no need to pull the trans , leave it in there.
It's best to support it with a jack when pulling and installing so you can adjust the angle.

What I do to install is get some long bell housing bolts, (7/16-14) and cut the heads off , put a screwdriver slot in the end .
Then you can guide the bell housing into place easier than just using the dowels.

sargentrs · Post by **sargentrs** » Thu Oct 11, 2018 7:09 am

Pros and cons either way. It's a matter of personal preference, IMHO. If you're going to remove the front clip , I'd pull them both together. That's what I did. I'm too old, fat and tired to wrestle a transmission from under the truck. My truck is a LWB and my garage is kind of shallow too. I had an old tire ready, pulled them clear, pushed the truck back, set the tire against the back wall, set the engine/tranny there, then pushed the truck back in. If I had it it to do over, I'd build a dolly to set them on when out. Later, I had to push the truck back out several times because they were in the way or to get them back out when I got rid of them. First page of my build thread in my signature.

1972hiboy · Post by **1972hiboy** » Thu Oct 11, 2018 10:24 am

I would take the hood off the truck, and leave the trans in the truck, the 4x4s have plenty of ground clearance to get under there and work on stuff. The manual transmission on these trucks in my opinion are easy to stab back together and get lined up. I would unhook the the transmission from the bell-housing and leave the bell-housing on the engine during removal and assembly. I have done plenty of engines on these trucks this way.

Idaho Chris · Post by **Idaho Chris** » Thu Oct 11, 2018 10:58 am

1972hiboy wrote:I would take the hood off the truck, and leave the trans in the truck, the 4x4s have plenty of ground clearance to get under there and work on stuff. The manual transmission on these trucks in my opinion are easy to stab back together and get lined up. I would unhook the the transmission from the bell-housing and leave the bell-housing on the engine during removal and assembly. I have done plenty of engines on these trucks this way.

Removing the engine this way did you just remove the hood and radiator? Or did you have to remove the radiator support as well?

1972hiboy · Post by **1972hiboy** » Thu Oct 11, 2018 11:09 am

Idaho Chris wrote:
1972hiboy wrote:I would take the hood off the truck, and leave the trans in the truck, the 4x4s have plenty of ground clearance to get under there and work on stuff. The manual transmission on these trucks in my opinion are easy to stab back together and get lined up. I would unhook the the transmission from the bell-housing and leave the bell-housing on the engine during removal and assembly. I have done plenty of engines on these trucks this way.
Removing the engine this way did you just remove the hood and radiator? Or did you have to remove the radiator support as well?

Oh yes, I should have specified. remove the radiator for space needed and for keep it from getting damaged. No other need to remove any other components of the body besides the hood, and the hood removal is just for gaining height clearance for the engine hoist. I strip most accessories off the engines front to simply things. I remove the carburetor and use a plate that bolts in its place on the intake and has three loops on it for the engine hoist to grab and lift from. then its just a matter of lifting slightly, pulling forward to get off the transmission then straight up and out from there.

Idaho Chris · Post by **Idaho Chris** » Thu Oct 11, 2018 11:14 am

Thanks Rich. At some point I'm going to break down and pull mine to fix a rear seal leak. Good to know i don't have to pull the whole front clip.

You are right, there is definitely a lot of room to work on these High Boys from the underside!

1972hiboy · Post by **1972hiboy** » Thu Oct 11, 2018 11:25 am

moto_0069.jpg

moto_0112.jpg

idahiboy · Post by **idahiboy** » Thu Oct 11, 2018 12:23 pm

1972hiboy wrote:
Idaho Chris wrote:
1972hiboy wrote:I would take the hood off the truck, and leave the trans in the truck, the 4x4s have plenty of ground clearance to get under there and work on stuff. The manual transmission on these trucks in my opinion are easy to stab back together and get lined up. I would unhook the the transmission from the bell-housing and leave the bell-housing on the engine during removal and assembly. I have done plenty of engines on these trucks this way.
Removing the engine this way did you just remove the hood and radiator? Or did you have to remove the radiator support as well?
Oh yes, I should have specified. remove the radiator for space needed and for keep it from getting damaged. No other need to remove any other components of the body besides the hood, and the hood removal is just for gaining height clearance for the engine hoist. I strip most accessories off the engines front to simply things. I remove the carburetor and use a plate that bolts in its place on the intake and has three loops on it for the engine hoist to grab and lift from. then its just a matter of lifting slightly, pulling forward to get off the transmission then straight up and out from there.

cep62 · Post by **cep62** » Thu Oct 11, 2018 7:24 pm

You wanna have fun?? , swap engines in a van!

I helped a buddy on an older chevy, luckily he had a forklift with a side shift.
We took the carb off and hooked one fork as low as we could and slid it in from the front.

Jacksdad · Post by **Jacksdad** » Thu Oct 11, 2018 8:49 pm

Try an RV. I swear they build the damn things around the motor.

1972hiboy · Post by **1972hiboy** » Fri Oct 12, 2018 11:54 am

Jacksdad wrote:Try an RV. I swear they build the damn things around the motor.

Some class C bodies are literally just lowered down onto a complete chassis during the assembly process. Kinda like a boat.

crazyhorse · Post by **crazyhorse** » Sat Oct 13, 2018 3:13 am

I agree with what has been said.
I have pulled them both ways and unless the transmission needs pulling I just pull the motor.
The engine leveler is handy to have and worth the money. There are many places to purchase one , I just happened to see this one at Walmart.com.
Good luck which ever way you decide to go.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Powerbuilt-1 ... thena=true

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