Looking for suggestions on FE intake and what else I should assess/do while I have intake off.
I have a '68 f250 doing a slow resto-mod on. Got a new wiring harness, updated brakes, new fuel lines, new plugs/wires! fpa headers with dual exhaust....seems to run fair. 600 Holley 4bl double pump with spacer as seem to get fuel boil problem if I am stopping and going....compression test shows at least all cylinders work. I want the vehicle to run sweet, but it's not gonna race, pull crazy loads or do crazy off road. It's my hobby and it'll haul some lumber and do some farm work.
Between YouTube and this forum I have been able to learn about this engine and tackle things as they come up
Discovered small head gasket leak of tiny dots of antifreeze along front of engine block...not enough to leave pool of fluid......I don't have ability to pull engine, so plan on doing in garage with an extra set of hands as I know they are heavy.
I don't want to pull heads/headers at this point....i have no leaks there
1- should I stick with stock intake or is there benefit of getting an edelbrock performer, rpm or street dominator (or other suggestion)
2- what gaskets should I use
3- do I use existing bolts.....will there be issues getting these loose? Otherwise some new ARP bolts?
4-should I replace valve covers at same time
5- what else should I "assess" or work on while I redo intake......without having a domino effect of turning this into a bigger project then it needs to be
Thanks for any suggestions.....super appreciate all the help and info on this forum!
FE 390 intake suggestions
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FE 390 intake suggestions
1968 F250 FE 390
- DuckRyder
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Re: FE 390 intake suggestions
I’m a little confused...
You say you noticed a head gasket leak but don’t want to pull the head... is that what you meant? Or is the intake gasket leaking?
You say you noticed a head gasket leak but don’t want to pull the head... is that what you meant? Or is the intake gasket leaking?
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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Re: FE 390 intake suggestions
Sorry....INTAKE gasket.....right in front above water pump and just to drivers side of where thermostat is.....I don't see anything leaking by heads.
Sorry about that....
Suggestions?
Thanks!
Sorry about that....
Suggestions?
Thanks!
1968 F250 FE 390
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Re: FE 390 intake suggestions
Hi,
I would go with an aftermarket intake.... And save 50lbs!!!!
Also, search on intake gaskets.... You will find lots of info.... Especially concerning the use of the end gaskets... Some use them... Some dont.. these motors are known to leak oil at the rear.
Also, I would replace the double pump carb with a vacuum secondary unit.
Lee
I would go with an aftermarket intake.... And save 50lbs!!!!
Also, search on intake gaskets.... You will find lots of info.... Especially concerning the use of the end gaskets... Some use them... Some dont.. these motors are known to leak oil at the rear.
Also, I would replace the double pump carb with a vacuum secondary unit.
Lee
- Jacksdad
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Re: FE 390 intake suggestions
I second that. If nothing else, an aftermarket intake will save you weight. And a vacuum secondary carb is a lot more forgiving for a daily driver.
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
- DuckRyder
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Re: FE 390 intake suggestions
Give my project thread a read, particularly whitsends post about intake gaskets and also some of colnago’s threads.
You did not say what intake you have now for the 4V intake as it would have been 2V from the factory, I’m assuming a run of the mill “S” or “T” intake.
With a stock truck bottom end (low compression small cam) I see little to be gained except weight loss from an intake change.
You have to pull the valve train on an FE to change the intake, so inspect rockers, rocker shafts and so forth... as good a time as any to change the valve covers.
I agree a vacuum secondary carb would be better for a heavy truck, that goes times 2 if it is an automatic...
You did not say what intake you have now for the 4V intake as it would have been 2V from the factory, I’m assuming a run of the mill “S” or “T” intake.
With a stock truck bottom end (low compression small cam) I see little to be gained except weight loss from an intake change.
You have to pull the valve train on an FE to change the intake, so inspect rockers, rocker shafts and so forth... as good a time as any to change the valve covers.
I agree a vacuum secondary carb would be better for a heavy truck, that goes times 2 if it is an automatic...
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
- colnago
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Re: FE 390 intake suggestions
I have to agree with Duck Ryder. I was a recent PITA with questions on upgrade options for my 352 (intake options, exhaust options, cam options, etc). I am more interested with low-end grunt than mid- to high-RPM racing. What I came to, for me, is that I'm sticking with the stock iron 4BBL intake. I decided that the Performer would be lighter, but it would also lighten my wallet, and wouldn't give me any real-world performance gains. I actually went from an "S" to a "T", but I decided to go back to the "S" again. The Performer RPM operates at higher RPM ranges than I need, and runs another $100 over the Performer.
For gaskets, I like Fel-Pro, with a dab of Permatex in the corners.
I used the original intake bolts, and will when I swap stuff this fall (different camshaft), but I'm not building a monster truck engine.
I bought some cast aluminum valve covers, but it was because they're sexy and I wanted them. They offer me no other benefits.
As with everything, this works for me, and is just my
Joseph
For gaskets, I like Fel-Pro, with a dab of Permatex in the corners.
I used the original intake bolts, and will when I swap stuff this fall (different camshaft), but I'm not building a monster truck engine.
I bought some cast aluminum valve covers, but it was because they're sexy and I wanted them. They offer me no other benefits.
As with everything, this works for me, and is just my
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
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Re: FE 390 intake suggestions
Changing to the lighter intake is nice. I have a Holley Dominator on my 360. It is fine. Actually unless you can find an aluminum one real cheap I would just look at a good carburetor. No matter what you do you will not really get great gas mileage with the rear end gears these 250's have. However you can tune them to run well and that counts. You really want a reliable running pickup. (I actually put a Holley 500 2 barrel on my last 390 and it ran great.+ I would look at what has been suggested and if you do buy a new carb, do not fall to the temptation to get one that is big. A basically stock 390 does not need a 750 cfm carb. While you may not get great mileage if you mess it up you can get terrible mileage.
I did not catch what you have for ignition but I would make sure you are good there before buying a new manifold.
I did not catch what you have for ignition but I would make sure you are good there before buying a new manifold.
No Brain - No Pain
71 F250 Sport Custom Camper Special
71 Ranchero Squire
70 Ranchero GT (Red w/351C 4V
70 Ranchero GT (Black w/302+)
03 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
74 Kawasaki H2 750 (Widowmaker)
75 Firebird 400
71 XKE FHC 4.2
04 XJ8 4.2
71 F250 Sport Custom Camper Special
71 Ranchero Squire
70 Ranchero GT (Red w/351C 4V
70 Ranchero GT (Black w/302+)
03 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
74 Kawasaki H2 750 (Widowmaker)
75 Firebird 400
71 XKE FHC 4.2
04 XJ8 4.2
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Re: FE 390 intake suggestions
Thank you ALL for the great insight and advice...It is all very helpful as I am new to engines and restoration ...i apologize for leaving out some key info and also some errors
The intake has casting "C5AE9425G"....from what I can tell that means it's a FE 1965 4bl intake ...but I don't know if this number tells me anything else or if I need to find a different number on it
-i don't know what heads are on it
-The distributor is stock from what I can tell...it has a points conversion kit (not pertronix but looks like something similar)
- i installed a new harness and upgraded to a 4g alternator.....new plugs and 8.5mmwires
-The carb is already brand new 600cfm,. Electric choke
-It IS a vacuum secondary (4150 holley).....only one throttle linkage to the front bowl.....sorry I was confused on the carb terms
Any thoughts on this model numbers on intake? I suspect it is a basic mid 60s intake...
Duckryder I will review your project thread tonight
Thanks again for all the advice!
The intake has casting "C5AE9425G"....from what I can tell that means it's a FE 1965 4bl intake ...but I don't know if this number tells me anything else or if I need to find a different number on it
-i don't know what heads are on it
-The distributor is stock from what I can tell...it has a points conversion kit (not pertronix but looks like something similar)
- i installed a new harness and upgraded to a 4g alternator.....new plugs and 8.5mmwires
-The carb is already brand new 600cfm,. Electric choke
-It IS a vacuum secondary (4150 holley).....only one throttle linkage to the front bowl.....sorry I was confused on the carb terms
Any thoughts on this model numbers on intake? I suspect it is a basic mid 60s intake...
Duckryder I will review your project thread tonight
Thanks again for all the advice!
1968 F250 FE 390