Choke options with headers? (electric conversion?)

[Mechanon]

Hey all, so I discovered why my choke wasn't exactly functioning. The heater tubes had snapped off the choke stove and were just dangling. One actually looks like it was snipped and pinched off at some point. Anyway, since I'm installing headers, that's not going to work anyway and I Was wondering if there is a simple electric choke conversion I would be able to use.

The truck is a 75 F150 with a 360/390, and the carburetor is a Motorcraft 2150 D5TE-AAA. I found this kit but it doesn't show as compatible. Any ideas?

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Electri ... _3878.html#

[Ranchero50]

With headers just buy 2-3' of 1/4" copper tubing and wrap the head pipe a couple turns. Works like magic. You can also use brake line and weld it to the pipe if you want.

[Mechanon]

Yeah I was thinking of doing that... But then thought why not modernize it a bit so it's one less thing I have to worry about. I confirmed with them this morning that it'll work. Hopefully it's relatively plug and play. Now I gotta figure out how to set the dashpot, or if I should just remove it altogether.

[1972hiboy]

Yeah I was thinking of doing that... But then thought why not modernize it a bit so it's one less thing I have to worry about. I confirmed with them this morning that it'll work. Hopefully it's relatively plug and play. Now I gotta figure out how to set the dashpot, or if I should just remove it altogether.

Something I have found with elec choke conversions is that they open to fast. I have had to use a resistor in line to drop voltage to the heating element to keep it on choke a few minutes longer. If you have and automatic then dashpots are great. they are designed to keep the engine rpm stable when say, your in stop and go traffic going uphill, so instead of the engine rpm snapping back down to idle with the drag of the transmission on it and wanting to stall or shake. they buffer the rpm down slower. Its basically an anti-stall device. I have incorporated a few of them in several trucks and when set up right give a nice driving experience.

[MadMike]

If the choke is wired to switched battery voltage then it will snap open too fast. Even just sitting with KOEO the choke will heat up and open on a cold engine. PITA.

When I fixed the wiring on my neighbors F250, I removed the switched hot to the choke, and ran a wire from the 'S'(stator) terminal on the back of the alternator to the choke. 'S' terminal only makes voltage when the engine is running and only makes about ~9volts. This allows a more natural opening of the choke as the engine heats up.
I'll admit on colder days/nights the choke takes a bit longer to kickoff, but overall its functionality has greatly improved.

[Mechanon]

ran a wire from the 'S'(stator) terminal on the back of the alternator to the choke. 'S' terminal only makes voltage when the engine is running and only makes about ~9volts. This allows a more natural opening of the choke as the engine heats up.

Yep, I believe this is exactly what the conversion instructions say to do. Either way, anything will be better than my 100% non-functioning choke right now.