'67 F100 Fuel line pump to carb

[JHof44]

I've developed a leak on my stock fuel line where the pump to carb line inserts into the carb. Motorcraft 2 bbl carb. After pulling the line both the fuel line threads and the bung are stripped, looks like the previous owner got over zealous while wrenching.

I'm looking everywhere and cannot find a fuel line that will fit the '67 with a 352 (F100). So, can anyone point me in the right direction of a fuel line and receiving bung for this truck? Will a '68 390 line fit or is it a different length/width?

I also need to replace the stock mousetrap throttle linkage, and am thinking of a straight rod with banjo fittings. Any input on correct length and pros/cons of this setup are more than welcome.

Any input is greatly apprcieated.

[71Fe2O3]

I built a throttle linkage for mine-a previous owner substituted a hunk of coat hanger wire for the "trapeze" linkage.

The one I built was made from a length of 1/4" rod from a hardware store, some heim fittings that my dad had laying around, and some nuts and short pieces of metal tubing.

If you are interested, I will have to get back to you on the length, but I remember that the rod came in a 3 foot section, giving me plenty to experiment with. Though I originally planned to use all-thread, I couldn't find any with the proper thread pitch so I bought solid rod and threaded the ends. This looks better anyway, in my opinion. Mine has held up well for over a year.

[colnago]

I used all-thread and heim joints as well. Some people think this makes the throttle too touchy, but I found it fine. One thing to consider is that the trapezoid turns the linkage into a "push" at the carb, and the direct linkage makes it a "pull". This is fine with me, because the PO installed an Edelbrock carb, and it's fine with the pull. I had to get the all-thread at a Fastenal store, because the heim joints I bought were some odd-ball thread size.

On the fuel line, you might have to bend your own. If you go this route, buy a tube bender (you can get one for eight bucks at Harbor Freight). I think Ford used 5/16" lines for the fuel.

Joseph

[bluef250]

Finding a stock fuel line in good shape is a challenge. A work around use rubber line and a route avoiding "hot" elements of the engine. Nipple for the carb and fuel pump are available at part stores.

You may also remove the carb and check to see if over tightening the fuel line has crack the carb.

[JHof44]

Awesome thanks for all the quick replies guys! I’m off to the hardware store.

[JHof44]

Ok potentially dumb question: If I go with a straight rod, and it switches it from a push to a pull without the trapeze on the stock 2bbl, what do I need to do to get it to function properly?

[bluef250]

Check to see if your carb can be changed from push to pull. Then find a throole linkage to fit. The linkage may need to adjusted a bit to get a straight pull. I have been using this system for many years.

[71Fe2O3]

That may depend on the linkage on your carburetor. Mine has a Holley 2 barrel carburetor, and the linkage on the carburetor has holes above and below the pivot point. I hooked the rod up to the hole above the pivot point in order to cause the throttle plates to open when the linkage is pulled.

I don't recall having trouble achieving a straight pull from the linkage connected to the accelerator pedal-I think that the Heim joints give you some flexibility on that.

My recollection is that I used a length of 1/4" diameter straight rod, measured the distance from the accelerator linkage to the carburetor linkage, subtracted from that the length of the Heim joints (end to center of threaded fitting, times 2), cut and threaded the rod, found that to be a bit small, and cut and threaded another piece about a half inch longer, which was a good length. I used cut pieces of bushings to fill the distance between the threaded fitting on the Heim joint and the inside diameter of the carburetor linkage. Finally, I used nuts with nylon inserts on the connections to the linkage, applied blue thread locker where the rod threaded into the Heim joints and silver spray paint to the rod for rust resistance.

It fit together nicely after a little fiddling, looks good, and has held up well. I haven't found it to be too touchy, and in fact I prefer the responsiveness to that of my other truck that with the stock linkage.

[71PA_Highboy]

Pics help.

[Ron_Hall]

That may depend on the linkage on your carburetor. Mine has a Holley 2 barrel carburetor, and the linkage on the carburetor has holes above and below the pivot point. I hooked the rod up to the hole above the pivot point in order to cause the throttle plates to open when the linkage is pulled.

I don't recall having trouble achieving a straight pull from the linkage connected to the accelerator pedal-I think that the Heim joints give you some flexibility on that.

My recollection is that I used a length of 1/4" diameter straight rod, measured the distance from the accelerator linkage to the carburetor linkage, subtracted from that the length of the Heim joints (end to center of threaded fitting, times 2), cut and threaded the rod, found that to be a bit small, and cut and threaded another piece about a half inch longer, which was a good length. I used cut pieces of bushings to fill the distance between the threaded fitting on the Heim joint and the inside diameter of the carburetor linkage. Finally, I used nuts with nylon inserts on the connections to the linkage, applied blue thread locker where the rod threaded into the Heim joints and silver spray paint to the rod for rust resistance.

It fit together nicely after a little fiddling, looks good, and has held up well. I haven't found it to be too touchy, and in fact I prefer the responsiveness to that of my other truck that with the stock linkage.

Fred, It sounds great, any pic's? I'm about to that point in my build.
Thanks Ron

[71Fe2O3]

Hey, Ron, I will post some pictures tomorrow.

[71Fe2O3]

Sorry about the delay, it took me a while to find the time to take the photos during the day, and even longer to figure out how to get the photos on here. I hope this works.
The dimensions of this are: overall 11 and 3/4", center to center 10 and 3/4", rod length 9 and 1/2"-my truck has a 302 with a Holley 2 barrel carburetor
Heim fittings had 1/4 by 24 thread
I threaded the ends of a piece of 1/4" rod
I had to drill out the top hole of the accelerator linkage to accommodate the screw.
I used cut pieces of bushings to fill in the distance between the screw and the large i.d. of the carburetor linkage.

I hope this was helpful-let me know if you need anything else.

https://imgur.com/z6N3wU8
https://imgur.com/Lq4qPWB
https://imgur.com/t3q3fPo

[JHof44]

I ended up picking up a Scott drake throttled linkage from summit. It’s for a mustang but fit perfectly. $30 so maybe a bit more pricey than making your own bit fit like a glove.

[71Fe2O3]

That Scott Drake part sure looks nice, and it is nice to know that it fits well, but the price would make me think twice about it unless the truck was real nice and the I wanted the cleaner look of a professionally machined part.

I was fortunate to get the Heim joints for free-my dad had them laying around-the only expenses were the piece of rod and some nuts from the hardware store.
If I placed a value on my time, probably about an hour of direct work time invested, and another hour or so thinking about how to do it and looking around for the materials, the Drake part would seem more attractive.

[Ohiotinkerer]

I ended up picking up a Scott drake throttled linkage from summit. It’s for a mustang but fit perfectly. $30 so maybe a bit more pricey than making your own bit fit like a glove.

Wouldn't by chance have the part number for it would you?