No start no spark 72 E100 302

[joesolomon52]

I know this is a truck site, but hoping for some help with my 72 econoline. I have a no spark condition though the engine turns over. It was running, logged about 100 miles on the van after installing a new (reman) distributor. Other new (reman) parts include points and condenser, cap and rotor, coil, battery cables, starter, starter relay, ignition switch and cylinder and starter cable. I kept the old parts because while worn they didn't look bad. I've swapped out 3 different condensers, 2 different sets of points and the other cap and rotor. I did try jumper wire from + battery to + coil and still no spark. I removed the existing + wire from the coil while doing this test. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Ren]

Bad coil.
Distributor not grounded.
Engine not grounded.

[bwlyon]

No spark at the coil or no spark at plugs? If you have power to coil, check the point gap, make sure the point closing completely, and opens to the appropriate gap to ensure that the points are breaking the ground to initiate the spark. With the distributor cap off you should be able to see a spark at the points while engine is cranking. Check the rotors top flap of metal is touching the distributor cap, sometimes they are laying to flat and need to be bent up slightly.

[joesolomon52]

I tested the coil with an ohms meter (BWD brand) and it was within spec (1.8/8900). With the key in the run position I have 5.75 volts at the positive side of the coil. I did clean the surface of the distributor plate, the points and condenser, as well as the bolt and hold down plate for the distributor. When you say the distributor isnt grounded, is there something other than the hold down plate and bolt/distributor shaft contacting the block that would cause it not to be grounded ? I didn't see a ground from the engine to the unibody frame. Should there be one and if so does gauge of the ground and location matter ?
I did check the gap again and it it correct, they appear to open and close, rotor is touching. I checked the coil specifically for spark and nothing. I'm wondering if the re-manufactured distributor is bad ? After the install, I drove it about 100 miles before no spark problem.

[Ranchero50]

Pop a spare good spark plug on the coil wire. Key on or positive side jumped to battery, ground negative side, should get a spark each time the ground is removed. If not, you have a bad coil.

If so remove the positive wire to the coil and using an ohm meter meter from the coil negative to ground while rolling the motor over by a 15/16" socket on the crank bolt. It should go from shorted to some flavor of condenser induced resistance as the points close and open. If not, use the ohmmeter function to check find the fault, either grounded or open connection.

[joesolomon52]

I did test the coil as you'd suggested and the coil was indeed good. I could not find an assistant to help with the rolling motor ohm test. I'd bought a Pertonix 1281 electronic ignition kit, popped that in and the van fired right up. I'm happy it's running but still scratching my head as to why it wouldn't work with points/condenser set up ? It's not the first set of points I've installed, I'm 99% sure I did it correctly. I tried a few different ground straps, condensers and points but could not get spark at the plug wire.
Just wanted to follow up and say thank you to everyone that offered assistance !

[bwlyon]

Glad you got it running, that always puts a smile on your face. Although, it always makes ya wonder what was causing the points set up not to work.