clutch set up

[Aurelio Landeros]

I am 17 and I have a 1970 f-100 with a i6240 and a 3 speed light duty gear box. It was given to me by my grandfather before he passed and my dad took it all apart to "restore" it and then he split on my and left me with the truck in pieces. I rebuilt the engine and had the gearbox referbished. But I am stuck on the clutch set up. I need to know how the whole clutch system is set up from the push of the pedal to the clutch fork.

[Busboy]

First off look at some pictures of the clutch linkage here on this website. However I'll take a stab at it. From the pedal there is a vertical rod connecting the pedal to the z-bar mechanism. There are little plastic bushings on this vertical rod at both ends. It's not unusual for the ends of this rod to be really worn. You might have to replace it or you or someone else can weld up the worn areas and file them down back to original shape. This z-bar pivots on a stud bracket on the engine side and another stud bracket on the frame side. These studs have thick, white plastic bushings that allow the z-bar to pivot on. The bracket on the frame side is slotted to allow adjustment. There are also felt seals on the studs that are supposed to keep grease in and water out. Not unusual for these to be worn or gone completely. There should be another adjustable rod with a tapered end that is adjustable that connects the z-bar to the actual clutch release fork. This rod would be horizontal. The tapered end of this rod sits in a recess in the clutch fork held there by nothing more than the spring tension of the long clutch return spring. It should be attached at the z-bar or front end by nothing more than a cotter pin. The end of this is subject to a lot of wear on an old truck. It can be similarly repaired with welding and filing. This adjustable rod is how you obtain 2" of clutch pedal play at your foot. The clutch fork pivots on a trunnion inside the bell housing and is retained by a special spring clip. The trans and bell housing would have to come off for access to this area. Hopefully the fork is still mounted in the throw out bearing and won't need attention. Good luck!

[Aurelio Landeros]

Thanks for the info and I have to buy a new clutchfork already bought the through out bearing