Run Away Truck
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Run Away Truck
So I got a call from my Dad back home the other day telling me that he had crashed my truck. He started my 69 250, ran inside the house to grab his jacket, and upon emerging from the house found my truck in reverse about to hit our neighbors car. To stop this from happening again, I would like to replace the broken gear selector, but cant find the part anywhere. I vaguely remember hearing this part described as a gear selector "gate". Can anyone point me in the right direction?
1969 F250 360 C6
Thanks,
Johnm
1969 F250 360 C6
Thanks,
Johnm
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- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: Run Away Truck
The thing that locks the gear selector into park is inside the shift collar, and the turn signal switch housing on the steering column. It could be that the point where the shift lever attaches to the collar is worn; causing excessive play in the lever, the spring inside the plunger assembly that pushes the shift lever into it's locking indent is broken, or the "locking indent" itself is worn/broken.
The red box is the locking indent mounted to the back of the turn signal switch housing. There is a protrusion on the shift lever in the area inside the green box that fits into those slots. The plunger assembly in the blue box pushes onto the shift lever, keeping the protrusion in the indent. Any one of those could be causing the problem.
You can get a new shift collar from any auto parts store. It's Dorman PN: 83242. It says '73-'79 w/out tilt, but it works on '67-'72 trucks too. It will come with a replacement spring for the plunger assembly.
The indent thing is a little harder to come by. I think I remember someone mentioning they found one for sale somewhere, but I can't remember where. If you're handy, you could probably make a new one out of some sheet metal.
Here's the original picture of the cutout above.
The red box is the locking indent mounted to the back of the turn signal switch housing. There is a protrusion on the shift lever in the area inside the green box that fits into those slots. The plunger assembly in the blue box pushes onto the shift lever, keeping the protrusion in the indent. Any one of those could be causing the problem.
You can get a new shift collar from any auto parts store. It's Dorman PN: 83242. It says '73-'79 w/out tilt, but it works on '67-'72 trucks too. It will come with a replacement spring for the plunger assembly.
The indent thing is a little harder to come by. I think I remember someone mentioning they found one for sale somewhere, but I can't remember where. If you're handy, you could probably make a new one out of some sheet metal.
Here's the original picture of the cutout above.
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Common Sense is an Uncommon Virtue
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Re: Run Away Truck
Upon further investigation I found a local store that sells the detent and one on ebay...well kind of. Do you know if any of these would work for my C6, or could be modified.?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-1972- ... 0934251704
http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/ ... kout-plate (This one could be promising)
http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.ph ... mber=7a216
Thanks,
Johnm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1971-1972- ... 0934251704
http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/ ... kout-plate (This one could be promising)
http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.ph ... mber=7a216
Thanks,
Johnm
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Re: Run Away Truck
I don't know about that 1st one. Nothing like that on my column. The other two look right. Here's a shot of mine for comparison.
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Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: Run Away Truck
I cracked out the column yesterday and this is what I found.
I'm thinking this is the problem, does anyone have a picture of what a knob Should look like?
I'm thinking this is the problem, does anyone have a picture of what a knob Should look like?
- sargentrs
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Re: Run Away Truck
Those parts don't look too bad to me although the tip does look a little short, from the photo. Here's a pic of my lever. You can also see some more pics here http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =5&t=72274 Did you have the rubber insulator on the end? How about the welded emboss on the top side of the shift tube? Did the hole look "wallered" out?
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Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: Run Away Truck
Yup i have the rubber insulator which has a little wear but nothing crazy. I got the entire column out of the truck today and here are the results.
I believe this the is emboss you where referring to..
Here is the one on the upper end:
And the one on the lower end:
When I pulled the inner shaft, I found something to be a little troubling. It looks as tho someone tried to weld some kind of stop on the bottom. When looking at your pictures, I noticed that this was on yours, but mine looks pretty janky.
Also, the bottom of the outer column, where the lower bearing is located looks as tho it has been flared out a bit.
I was able to get the bearing out and after cleaning it up a bit notice some minor wear:
I believe this the is emboss you where referring to..
Here is the one on the upper end:
And the one on the lower end:
When I pulled the inner shaft, I found something to be a little troubling. It looks as tho someone tried to weld some kind of stop on the bottom. When looking at your pictures, I noticed that this was on yours, but mine looks pretty janky.
Also, the bottom of the outer column, where the lower bearing is located looks as tho it has been flared out a bit.
I was able to get the bearing out and after cleaning it up a bit notice some minor wear:
- sargentrs
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Re: Run Away Truck
All in all, it doesn't look bad and all the wearable pieces look to be in good shape. How was the plunger in the shift collar? Did it hold good pressure on the shift lever?Johnm wrote:Yup i have the rubber insulator which has a little wear but nothing crazy. I got the entire column out of the truck today and here are the results.
I believe this the is emboss you where referring to..
Here is the one on the upper end:
[ Image ]
Looks OK.
And the one on the lower end:
[ Image ]
Not bad.
When I pulled the inner shaft, I found something to be a little troubling. It looks as tho someone tried to weld some kind of stop on the bottom. When looking at your pictures, I noticed that this was on yours, but mine looks pretty janky.
[ Image ]
[ Image ]
[ Image ]
Looks like they had some issues with it staying in place. That backs up against the lower column bearing and insures the retainer ring stays firmly seated. My automatic column has a collar with set screws but my 3 spd column had one similar. Also, the bottom of the outer column, where the lower bearing is located looks as tho it has been flared out a bit.
[ Image ]
[ Image ]
This is not a concern. No big deal.
I was able to get the bearing out and after cleaning it up a bit notice some minor wear:
[ Image ]
[ Image ]
Looks OK to me.
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Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: Run Away Truck
Sorry of the late response, as life threw me a few curve balls haha. Everything went together well, except for a few parts. When i was trying to re-install the column, that collar around the bottom of the steering shaft was getting in the way and didnt allow for any of the threads to be exposed beyond the steering wheel, thus stopping me from tightening the bolt on the steering wheel to tighten everything up. Secondly, I'm a little confused about the purpose of the "Flange Bolts" # 19 in the picture. What is the purpose of these, do they connect to the column somehow?
These are just some pics to show how everything else turned out so far.
These are just some pics to show how everything else turned out so far.
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Re: Run Away Truck
Those flange bolts are what connect the turn signal switch housing (#21 in your graphic) to the main column housing. The head of the flange bolt hooks into the slot at the top of the column housing, like this:
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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Re: Run Away Truck
Are the screws supposed to have a hook on them, mine are simply a square at the end. I had a feeling this was the case and tried to assemble it as described and found that I needed 3 or 4 more hands. Any suggestions on how to get everything together easily?
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
- toddspeed
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Re: Run Away Truck
yep getting those square heads to engage while holding everything in place is a huge PITA!
Todd in Atlanta
1970 F100 Ranger born the same month/year as me - 360 C6 2WD, P/S, LWB
You! Yes You! Please put your location in your profile - it helps us help you when it comes to parts, pricing, and advice.
1970 F100 Ranger born the same month/year as me - 360 C6 2WD, P/S, LWB
You! Yes You! Please put your location in your profile - it helps us help you when it comes to parts, pricing, and advice.
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Re: Run Away Truck
After installing the shifter tube/spring/lever, I found it helpful to compress the shifter tube spring, stick a small screwdriver into the neutral safety switch clip center hole, screwdriver will rest against the column tube and keep the spring compressed a bit while you line everything else up.
I used a dab of strip caulk (kinda like sticky silly putty) to hold those rectangle-end bolts in place.
Once the bolts are through the collar, gently pull them through and the tapered recess will get them into postion. All the while you've got to compress the shifter tube spring...it's a fiddly operation. Swearing helps.
*edit*...Next column rebuild, I'm gonna try what Sargeant posted!
I used a dab of strip caulk (kinda like sticky silly putty) to hold those rectangle-end bolts in place.
Once the bolts are through the collar, gently pull them through and the tapered recess will get them into postion. All the while you've got to compress the shifter tube spring...it's a fiddly operation. Swearing helps.
*edit*...Next column rebuild, I'm gonna try what Sargeant posted!
Last edited by 72BahamaBlue on Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- 91Bear
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Re: Run Away Truck
Don't worry. If you're like the rest of us, after taking it apart and putting it together about 14 times you should get the hang of it!
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Re: Run Away Truck
Here's another way Green23 suggested in my column rebuild thread...
Green23 says:
" I just finished rebuilding my '68 manual column, and found an easy way to install those square-head tube flange bolts. Just install them in position on the flange with the small nuts started 1 or 2 turns, then while holding the entire column assembly vertical install the flange over the shift collar and wiggle a bit. The square heads will seat themselves down in the 2 slots and can then be easily tightened. I suspect this is how they were originally installed as there is no sign of grease, glue, etc. on the bolts when first removed."
Green23 says:
" I just finished rebuilding my '68 manual column, and found an easy way to install those square-head tube flange bolts. Just install them in position on the flange with the small nuts started 1 or 2 turns, then while holding the entire column assembly vertical install the flange over the shift collar and wiggle a bit. The square heads will seat themselves down in the 2 slots and can then be easily tightened. I suspect this is how they were originally installed as there is no sign of grease, glue, etc. on the bolts when first removed."
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.