carb
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Re: carb
That's a Carter YFA 1-bbl carb, which was used by Ford from (I believe) '75 to '86. (It was also used by Dodge, Jeep and AMC). Look on the driver's side, at the carb base. What you need to find is the 4-digit number that starts with a 7 (like '7262' or '7305'), or a variation of the Ford numbering system, which will look something like 'D8TE-CAN' or 'D8TE-AAA'. Once you have those numbers, you can go to any decent auto parts store and get a rebuild kit. While you can probably just tell the guy at the counter that you need a kit for a Carter YFA from a '78 300 and be OK, I'm not sure how universal those kits are.
Here's a link to read about the YF and YFA carbs:
http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/tech/Carter/Y-index.html
Here's a link to read about the YF and YFA carbs:
http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/tech/Carter/Y-index.html
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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- Blue Oval Fanatic
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Re: carb
I just rebuilt my 2 barrel and it was not that bad. Like Fordman said, just follow the instructions and remember how everything went together.
Troy
Why is it that the trucks are always the best running vehicles in the family?
Ford means "found on road daily"
70 F100 Custom-352 w/68 Highboy 4x4 frame. My play/project truck
70 F250 Explorer-390/C6 auto. My work truck
04 Mitsubishi montero-family car
Why is it that the trucks are always the best running vehicles in the family?
Ford means "found on road daily"
70 F100 Custom-352 w/68 Highboy 4x4 frame. My play/project truck
70 F250 Explorer-390/C6 auto. My work truck
04 Mitsubishi montero-family car
- TNIceWolf
- Blue Oval Fanatic
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- Location: Tennessee Greeneville
Re: carb
As a side note...........be sure to mark all vacum....and fuel lines..........and electrical or mechanical connections............nothing will mess with a good rebuild like a faulty reinstallation.
Find 'em....Buy 'em....Fix 'em.....Drive 'em....Love 'em
HHC 4/67AR.... Bandits.....88-92
Presently in the stable
1969 Ford F-350 DRW
1989 Chevy S-10 Tahoe ( It gets me to work and back and fetches parts and groceries)
1981 Buick Regal ( My deceased uncles last project/driver....renamed project Regal Eagle to be finished in his honor)
1990 Ford F-150 ( Miss Yvonnes Daily Driver )
My F-350 project http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=41744
HHC 4/67AR.... Bandits.....88-92
Presently in the stable
1969 Ford F-350 DRW
1989 Chevy S-10 Tahoe ( It gets me to work and back and fetches parts and groceries)
1981 Buick Regal ( My deceased uncles last project/driver....renamed project Regal Eagle to be finished in his honor)
1990 Ford F-150 ( Miss Yvonnes Daily Driver )
My F-350 project http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=41744
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- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: carb
The Carter YF is about as easy a first carb to rebuild as you can find.
The only parts in it that actually go bad are the needle/seat and the
pump diaphragm.. Get everything real clean, and change those out,
along with the new gaskets and you should be good to go.
Be sure to check the float for any leaks if brass. Also make sure
to check the float drop, etc..
The instructions are in the kit. And yes, most YF rebuild kits will
cover most all YF carbs. They made a feedback version, but none
of these old trucks use them normally.
Like I say, the only parts that really wear out are the float needle
and the diaphragm. There is not much else to go wrong unless the
throttle shaft bores get wore out, and it leaks too much air in.
BTW, get everything as clean as possible, including all idle air
ports, etc.. Just a tiny spec of dirt in the wrong place can cause
you to pull it off again after rebuilding.
Both my trucks have the Carter YF. I can rebuild one in less than
an hour, including taking it off, and putting it back on.
They are easy.
The number one problem is usually a leaking diaphragm.
If you yank the carb, and it's leaking from the base, or looks
like it has, and also runs rich no matter the idle setting, the
diaphram is probably shot and leaking.
The modern gas eats those things for lunch. This includes the
new ones that come with the kits..
You have to unhook the pump linkage and pull the pump shaft
up to get to it. Remember the order of the springs and keepers..
BTW, one other note.. When you pull the top off, there is a
little check valve up on the top in a little hole/port..
Some are a check ball and spring deal, and some use a little
brass check valve that looks kind of like a hex shaped pin
with a point on the end.
If you invert the carb, this check valve will fall out on the
floor.
So first thang when you pull the cover off, catch the check
valve and store it away before it gets lost.
I recommend reusing the same one that was in the carb.
But if it gets lost, they do include a check valve or ball
with the rebuild kit.
I've forgot about that check valve and inverted the carb
and had it fall out.. Scouring the ground looking for tiny
check balls etc is no fun.
The only parts in it that actually go bad are the needle/seat and the
pump diaphragm.. Get everything real clean, and change those out,
along with the new gaskets and you should be good to go.
Be sure to check the float for any leaks if brass. Also make sure
to check the float drop, etc..
The instructions are in the kit. And yes, most YF rebuild kits will
cover most all YF carbs. They made a feedback version, but none
of these old trucks use them normally.
Like I say, the only parts that really wear out are the float needle
and the diaphragm. There is not much else to go wrong unless the
throttle shaft bores get wore out, and it leaks too much air in.
BTW, get everything as clean as possible, including all idle air
ports, etc.. Just a tiny spec of dirt in the wrong place can cause
you to pull it off again after rebuilding.
Both my trucks have the Carter YF. I can rebuild one in less than
an hour, including taking it off, and putting it back on.
They are easy.
The number one problem is usually a leaking diaphragm.
If you yank the carb, and it's leaking from the base, or looks
like it has, and also runs rich no matter the idle setting, the
diaphram is probably shot and leaking.
The modern gas eats those things for lunch. This includes the
new ones that come with the kits..
You have to unhook the pump linkage and pull the pump shaft
up to get to it. Remember the order of the springs and keepers..
BTW, one other note.. When you pull the top off, there is a
little check valve up on the top in a little hole/port..
Some are a check ball and spring deal, and some use a little
brass check valve that looks kind of like a hex shaped pin
with a point on the end.
If you invert the carb, this check valve will fall out on the
floor.
So first thang when you pull the cover off, catch the check
valve and store it away before it gets lost.
I recommend reusing the same one that was in the carb.
But if it gets lost, they do include a check valve or ball
with the rebuild kit.
I've forgot about that check valve and inverted the carb
and had it fall out.. Scouring the ground looking for tiny
check balls etc is no fun.
1968 F-250 / 300 six / T-18
Dana 60 - 4.10 Limited Slip
Dana 60 - 4.10 Limited Slip