I recently scored a '68 F100 that came with a new Holley 1850 4bbl, edelbrock "performer" intake, hooker headers and severl other new items like dash pads ect...for $400!
That's the "I'm so giddy I could pee myself" part.
This weekend I'm going to install the intake and carb on my 390 but I have a few questions.
What should I torque the intake bolts to? The original iron took 80 ft lbs but I'm sure the aluminum will take less.
There's no spacer plate between the carb and intake therefore the carb studs are too long. Do I need a plate? I can make shorter studs.
I also have to pp the water pump feed fitting out of my old intake and put it in the new one. It looks pressed in. Should I fool with trying to reuse the old one or just find a new one?
I'll eventually part out the truck. It's too far gone rust wise to keep. It does have some usable parts though, like a 9" rear and side tool box that actually isn't rotted out. Once I inspect it further, I'll post the items in the classifieds.
Thanks
RS.
intake questions
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Re: intake questions
25 ft. lbs. per instructions- http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new ... 0/2105.pdf
Shorter studs- http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... =SUM-G1423
For the nipple, I tap the intake and use a 1/2"NPT brass close nipple. (may be 3/8" can't remember right now )Cut the length then slot the end to install. Or you could just turn it with vice grips or pipe wrench.You can get them threaded just one end, but HomeDepot or a hardware store they'll be threaded on both. McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#9580k23/=1gezdo OR http://www.mcmaster.com/#9580k22/=1gf2w8
or find a piece of tube the right size and drive it in, per instructions.
"BEFORE INSTALLING THE INTAKE MANIFOLD: The water bypass tube needs to be installed into the water bypass hole in the front of the
intake manifold. Apply some liquid Teflon thread sealant to the inside surface of the water bypass hole and tap the water bypass tube into
the hole using a block of wood and a hammer. Be careful to drive the tube straight into the bypass hole to avoid bending or crushing the
tube. Test fit the intake manifold with the bypass tube installed to make sure the bypass tube and water pump are aligned properly and have
proper clearance between them."
Shorter studs- http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... =SUM-G1423
For the nipple, I tap the intake and use a 1/2"NPT brass close nipple. (may be 3/8" can't remember right now )Cut the length then slot the end to install. Or you could just turn it with vice grips or pipe wrench.You can get them threaded just one end, but HomeDepot or a hardware store they'll be threaded on both. McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#9580k23/=1gezdo OR http://www.mcmaster.com/#9580k22/=1gf2w8
or find a piece of tube the right size and drive it in, per instructions.
"BEFORE INSTALLING THE INTAKE MANIFOLD: The water bypass tube needs to be installed into the water bypass hole in the front of the
intake manifold. Apply some liquid Teflon thread sealant to the inside surface of the water bypass hole and tap the water bypass tube into
the hole using a block of wood and a hammer. Be careful to drive the tube straight into the bypass hole to avoid bending or crushing the
tube. Test fit the intake manifold with the bypass tube installed to make sure the bypass tube and water pump are aligned properly and have
proper clearance between them."
68 Custom Cab Shorty, 390, C6, 9"-3.50:1 Currie T/L
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Re: intake questions
For the water bypass, I tapped mine and ran a large brass barbed fitting in.
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Re: intake questions
Thanks.
BTW..I meant to say "pop" out the fitting above, not "pp" out the fitting. I'm sure you guys understood the mistake but, you never know when chevy guys are lurking and I don't want to be responsible for anyone taking a leak on the top of their engine thinkng they've discovered a new source of penetrating oil.
BTW..I meant to say "pop" out the fitting above, not "pp" out the fitting. I'm sure you guys understood the mistake but, you never know when chevy guys are lurking and I don't want to be responsible for anyone taking a leak on the top of their engine thinkng they've discovered a new source of penetrating oil.
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Re: intake questions
R.Smith wrote:Thanks.
BTW..I meant to say "pop" out the fitting above, not "pp" out the fitting. I'm sure you guys understood the mistake but, you never know when chevy guys are lurking and I don't want to be responsible for anyone taking a leak on the top of their engine thinkng they've discovered a new source of penetrating oil.
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Re: intake questions
I would recommend getting a garb spacer. It will help keep the fuel mixture cooler and denser. That will help give you more power, and lessen driveability problems.
And be sure to use a valley pan under the intake to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake.
And be sure to use a valley pan under the intake to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake.
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If you're going to live like there's no hell...............
you'd better be right.
http://theworldasiseeit-flyboy2610.blog ... ee-it.html