starter?
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- kyle ray
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- Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2007 5:32 pm
- Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
starter?
Just got towed home Thankfully only about 3 miles from home. My truck started a horrible noise after sitting only about 10 min when i ran in a store. Stared truck up and the noise was at start up. to me it sounded like a bearing going out, loud and screaching. I drove the truck about a 1/2 mile where i had to pick my son up, otherwise i would have not moved it. When i was driving it, the truck seemed to have full power and drive ok. When i got to where i needed the truck would not shut off, so i turned the key to the right like i was starting it, then tried to turn it off. it did. But now it only clicks when you turn the key. I am hoping that what i was hearing was the starter freezing up. Plese validate my thinking or give me some suggestions. THANKS. By the way, 360,3 speed
- DuckRyder
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Re: starter?
I suppose it could be a starter drive problem accounting for the "loud screeching", but the would not turn off sounds more like a solinoid or igniton switch problem.
I think additonal diagnosis with out the added pressure of needing to be somewhere is needed.
I think additonal diagnosis with out the added pressure of needing to be somewhere is needed.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
- FLATBEDFORD
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Re: starter?
Solenoid?
Steve
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
My Photo Gallery
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1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
My Photo Gallery
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/flatbedford/
- ares360
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Re: starter?
it would be the cylinder with 4 prongs stick out of it for wires....usually located about a foot from the battery. when my started when out I just replaced both the starter and solenoid.FLATBEDFORD wrote:Solenoid?
Kane
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
- kyle ray
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- Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2007 5:32 pm
- Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Re: starter?
if it is the solenoid, could i put a voltmeter on the starter side and check for 12v when trying to turn on? if it is bad i should not get voltage. is this correct?
- ares360
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Re: starter?
you should be able to do that. I am not much of an electrician. that is why I will spend $15 on a solenoid and know that it will work.
Kane
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
1971 Ford F250 4x2, no engine.....what am I going to do?
- kyle ray
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- Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2007 5:32 pm
- Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Re: starter?
solenoid tested good and i am getting 12v at starter when key is turned. So, I talked to my boss today who is a better mechanic than i am and he said that the noise i was hearing and the fact that the engine would not turn off was the starter not disengaging. When you try to start now it just clicks.... I have ordered a new starter from summit . This should get it
- FLATBEDFORD
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Re: starter?
Sounds like a plan. That's what I was thinking, but the not shutting down thing is not because of the starter.
Steve
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
My Photo Gallery
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/flatbedford/
1970 F350 DRW Factory 9' Platform/Stake, 360, T18.
Passed on to new care taker July, 2013
My Photo Gallery
http://s115.photobucket.com/albums/n298/flatbedford/
-
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Re: starter?
I totally agree. The not shutting down is not the starter. Maybe a malfunction in the ignition switch or solenoid causing the starter to stay engaged and burn out and causing the engine to not shut off. You may want to think about replacing all three which won't cost too much or risk buying another starter.
sgs
sgs
- Wes
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Re: starter?
I would also replace the solenoid. The solenoid may have caused the starter failure to disengage, by staying latched. High starter amp draw can cause the contacts in the solenoid to weld closed, keeping the starter engaged. The solenoid contacts are worn and pitted by age and or high amp draw, causing higher amperage needed to start the engine. When you replace your starter inspect the teeth on the fly wheel for damage, also wire brush cable eyes at the starter and solenoid, to get good clean contacts.
1 question why did you order the starter from summit? I would think that most any local part store would have it in stock or could get 1 from a local warehouse.
1 question why did you order the starter from summit? I would think that most any local part store would have it in stock or could get 1 from a local warehouse.
Wes
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- kyle ray
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- Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2007 5:32 pm
- Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Re: starter?
i will replace the solenoid when i replace the starter. that is a good idea and good insurance. I got one from summit thinking that this one would be heavy duty , more resistant to high heat ( i have headers), plus i have some money left on a summit gift card.
- Wes
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Re: starter?
A heat shield will be the best bet to add service time to the starter motor. Heat means more resistance = more amperage needed to operate the starter.
Wes
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10402
67 F250 High boy
69 Bronco
If you can't see fit to stand behind Our Troops...Please stand in front of them
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10402
67 F250 High boy
69 Bronco
If you can't see fit to stand behind Our Troops...Please stand in front of them