manual choke

[willowbilly3]

That whole thing looks pretty shakey. You can buy a good cable if you want to spend $$$ but I wouldn't waste a 20 dollar choke cable on that, you don't even have any fast idle anymore. Get the stuff from a 69 or older carb to do it right.

[mouse]

it holds the choke pretty tight so when I go to start off from cold I can yank choke to start, pressure choke will open it a bit, when worm I go and open it a bit more

[sideoilerfe]

That whole thing looks pretty shakey. You can buy a good cable if you want to spend $$$ but I wouldn't waste a 20 dollar choke cable on that, you don't even have any fast idle anymore. Get the stuff from a 69 or older carb to do it right.

I agree. Or just fix the auto choke. I have a Holley carb on my 70 with an electric choke and have zero problems with it. I don't even pump the gas to start it! I simply press the pedal enough to engage the choke and turn the key. Fires right up...even after sitting for a month!

[mouse]

it works better with my full manual choke, I can drive it all day with out having to do this again because I know where it wont's to be when warm which is not full open, it always start right up now and i got tired of trying to get the auto choke to set to the state needed. cause one it won't work right for cold start and I would prim 1, 1 click about 10 till it stayed runing(5-10s runs), if I gave it gas it would stumble and die. cause two it stumbled on take off. it had one or the other, so going to manual and looking for a good cable and/or manual carb, (fast idle is my foot and a good one at that)

[fordman]

i dont think its your cable thats the problem. it the missing linkage that is the problem.

[mouse]

it don't have either problem now, the only problem is the cable is binding

[willowbilly3]

If it won't run with the choke fully open after it's warmed up, something isn't right. You seem to be okay with the bar a little lower and that's fine, it's your truck. Look in an old school bus for a good choke cable. Or get a twist lock style throttle cable from a big truck.

[ezernut9mm]

i may have one. let me look around.

[mouse]

alright I will try to find I of them two cables or I will a larger core wire in mine, I will deal with why it will stumble when warm with wide open choke when I go to take off till when it shows me more symptoms because I don't won't to think what think it is right now with a plate full of repairs, but other than that it run good for 278,000

[sideoilerfe]

it works better with my full manual choke, I can drive it all day with out having to do this again because I know where it wont's to be when warm which is not full open...

Then the choke is NOT your problem. It should run the best when up to normal operating temperature and the choke is fully open. Your carburetor is too lean. It is time to rebuild or replace it. Those Autolite carbs are notorious for being lean. Fix it correctly and you'll be a lot happier.

[mouse]

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... hp?t=36878

it binds not hoked up and I have it hooked to hold the choke in place

[DuckRyder]

IMO, put the automatic choke stuff back on it and adjust everything corectly you should not have problems.

If you really want a manual choke, then you need to install the proper linkage parts from a manual choke carb.

[willowbilly3]

Robert, I totally agree but I am not sure if the manual choke parts will all fit. I tried it on the .98 carbs from my 63 fairlane and the layout was different in how the choke mechanisms were mounted. It is an older version but just an example.
If you are too lean you may have some vacuum leaks. And mouse, I am not trying to hack on you but your writing style makes it kind of difficult to understand what you are saying.
As sideoiler said, do a rebuild, carbs don't come much easier to work on. The kit is $15-$20 probably and a can of Berryman's B12 spray cleaner, shoot it through all the passages and blow it down with air, put in the new parts according to instructions and set the float. Keep your old gaskets and compare very closely to match them up because most kits will come with several.

[DuckRyder]

I think he has rebuilt it. (Linked thread above)

I am not an autolite guy so you may be correct about the linkage parts not fitting. It seems to me whatever idiosyncrasies the automatic choke might have had, they would be better than what it has now.

It appears to me that there is a leverage problem as well, all the manual choke carburetors I've dealt with (admittedly, mostly Holley) have a linkage arm that is approximately an inch long, this set up has the cable acting on a very short linkage of approximately .25 inch which would make fine adjustment next to impossible.

I am not trying to be mean, but in my experience if you want something to work correctly, you have to do it correctly. A kludge usually works like a kludge.

[willowbilly3]

I think he has rebuilt it. (Linked thread above)

I am not an autolite guy so you may be correct about the linkage parts not fitting. It seems to me whatever idiosyncrasies the automatic choke might have had, they would be better than what it has now.

It appears to me that there is a leverage problem as well, all the manual choke carburetors I've dealt with (admittedly, mostly Holley) have a linkage arm that is approximately an inch long, this set up has the cable acting on a very short linkage of approximately .25 inch which would make fine adjustment next to impossible.

I am not trying to be mean, but in my experience if you want something to work correctly, you have to do it correctly. A kludge usually works like a kludge.

I guess I missed that part. You may still have open vacuum where you removed the choke housing too. I guess all you really asked was where to get a better choke cable, not advice on your modifications. Sometimes us old guys forget that not everyone is as discrimination of motorist as we think we are. . Go to a truck shop for a good cable, the parts store ones are junk. I am going though that on my John Deere yard tractor engine swap project too. I have a really good Ford one from a school bus but I hate to waste it on the garden tractor.
And for whatever it's worth, the technical name is bowden cable.