New 300 EFI Need HELP. Update SUCCESS!

[FoMoCo]

Hey All. I figured i'd be done by now with my 300 EFI swap. I stared with a low milage 1989 version of a 300 from a totaled f150 with 5 speed manual. I'm working a POP2 program computer. I replaced the distributor, coil, plugs and wires, and ign. module while the engine was on a engine stand. My problem is that I have good spark, fuel, and timing. As a side note. When I replaced the distributer I wasn't sure of I installed it 180 degrees off so I tried it both ways reading off the timing on the passenger side with the faint little dash mark. This marked lined up as best as I could tell with the TDC of the number on piston. The firing order is 153624. The fuel system is entirely 6 AN with a Carter low pressure pump followed by a Walbro High pressure pump, with a return line dumping back into the tank next to the pick up side. Both pumps although loud are providing awsome flow. The injectors are receiving a pulse from the EEC wich I verified during cranking. I removed a spark plug and wire to determine a great spark. However, I thought the plug would be soaked on fuel but it was very dry with a faint smell of gas.

As far as wiring. Each pump has a relay. The EEC has a relay. The pin 20 40 60 are grounded. "Crank only" for the TFI has connected to the the started solinoid signal. The big yellow "always one" wire connects to the battery without switches. The red "power cranking/running" wire is reciving power from the relay. PIN 30 that looks for the safety switch has been grounded and powered but has no effect.

What I'm coming to is that there is great spark, fuel as far as I can tell, timing, and air. The engine makes a puff-sound every other revolution when cranking. It smells like exhaust after a few seconds. It just wont go???

*****Update. She breathed fire! I half dixie glass of gas funneled into the vacuum tree in the upper intake and it started at the flick of the key. It only ran for a couple second untill it burned all the gas. Next was to try the same trick but turn the pumps on. It ran/idled great for about 30 seconds, keep in mind no coolant yet. The oil pressure gauge was pegged out. I think the oil pressure gauge swith on the engine is for an oil light and wont work with my dash oil gauge. Unfortunantly, the battery was too dead to try and start it with-out the aid of the pour-in gas. For now I claim victory.

Nick

[spartman]

sounds to me like the timing is close but not close enough.

[Thunderfoot]

I agree, I think you are off still on the timing... Pull the #1 plug and turn the motor over by hand with your finger over the sparkplug hole. As you turn it when you get to the compression stroke it will blow your finger off the hole, keep turning until it stops blowing and it should be close to TDC. Then check your mark on the Balancer and also that the rotor in the distributor is pointing at just a tad after the #1 wire with the balancer pointing at TDC.

[averagef250]

Did you test injector terminals with a test light or noids? The EEC grounds one side of the injectors to fire them. Do you have 12V to the injectors at all times? You should. What is your fuel pressure at the rail?

Try to kick the engine on starting fluid. Bank injection engines like the early 300's don't give a hoot when the fuel is injected just as long as the amount is correct. At cranking the EEC sets injectors to full duty and injects the max amount of fuel. You WILL smell fuel immediately if there is an ignition problem.

[FoMoCo]

Sound like a fuel problem. I cant really smell fuel even with al the cranking and fuel pumps running constantly. I'l double check the timing and take a good lok at the fuel system. The injectors are getting a signal, I checked it by putting a volt meter in the injector harnes and by testing the ground fequency with an ohm meter.

Nick