pivot bushings

[Jason]

I am installing a new set of axle pivot bushings for the first time, and I am not sure if they will need to be pressed in or if i can install them myself? Is this a difficult process or can i do it in a day in my driveway. and last but most importantly is there any tricks or tips i should know about?

Thanks for any help you can give me

[iamthewreckingcrew]

Do you mean the bushings where the I-beam attaches to the frame? If so, then no you don't have to press them in. I tore my old ones up pretty bad getting them out, but the new ones went in pretty easy. I didn't have to press anything in when I swapped I-beams and I replaced all the bushings.

[Jason]

yes the bushings i am talking about is the ones on the I-beams. I am not so much worried about the ones on the radius arms they appear to be simple enough. thanks for the info! I just want to make sure I have as much info as possible sense this is my daily driver.

[iamthewreckingcrew]

No problem. I'm sure you could change out all the bushings in a good day.

I took my front end apart recently to swap the springs side to side and it took about an hour total. I had the springs on the wrong sides.

[Maltybuck]

Just to piggyback onto this thread, I also need to swap an axle pivot bushing on a 69 2-wheel drive soon. Once I loosen and remove the main bolt that attaches the axle to the frame, will I be able to pull the I-beam axle down far enough to install the new bushing? Will the wheel that is connected to the other end of that I-beam need to be jacked up off the ground? It seems like pulling down on the I-beam will cause the wheel to want to tilt and the radius arm will want to twist. Not sure if there's enough play to pull down the I-beam far enough, or if I need to loosen up other parts of the suspension.

Thanks!

[BobbyFord]

Just to piggyback onto this thread, I also need to swap an axle pivot bushing on a 69 2-wheel drive soon. Once I loosen and remove the main bolt that attaches the axle to the frame, will I be able to pull the I-beam axle down far enough to install the new bushing? Will the wheel that is connected to the other end of that I-beam need to be jacked up off the ground? It seems like pulling down on the I-beam will cause the wheel to want to tilt and the radius arm will want to twist. Not sure if there's enough play to pull down the I-beam far enough, or if I need to loosen up other parts of the suspension.

Thanks!

I did my dads not too long ago. I jacked the truck up just a little and put jack stands under the frame, on each side, up near the front, left the tires on, slid my floor jack under one beam near the pivot bushing and pulled out the pivot bolt and pryed the axle pivot out of the frame. I then used a chisle bit on my air hammer and popped out the old bushing. Then I used a couple of washers, a cup-shaped piece of metal and a long nut and bolt and used my 1/2 drive impact to tighten the nut-bolt-washer-cup set up and press the bushing in. Both sides took less than an hour total.

[Joshpow]

This is some good info for me guys. One question I have is are 67-72 pivot bushings the same as a 77. I have a total bushing kit picked out for a 72, but I don't know if the pivot bushings and radius bushings will work on the 77 beams I pan to use.

[Jason]

I am pretty sure the bushings are the same. I have read this site many times and nothing says differently that I have found though I have been known to be wrong once. LOL

[iamthewreckingcrew]

I used 77 I Beams on my 68 and didn't buy any year specific bushings.

[Maltybuck]

I did my dads not too long ago. I jacked the truck up just a little and put jack stands under the frame, on each side, up near the front, left the tires on, slid my floor jack under one beam near the pivot bushing and pulled out the pivot bolt and pryed the axle pivot out of the frame. I then used a chisle bit on my air hammer and popped out the old bushing. Then I used a couple of washers, a cup-shaped piece of metal and a long nut and bolt and used my 1/2 drive impact to tighten the nut-bolt-washer-cup set up and press the bushing in. Both sides took less than an hour total.

Thanks for the info. I ordered both bushings, the standard and the urethane/performance type that re-uses the old metal sleeve. Hopefully I won't have to pry out the old sleeve. If the parts arrive by this weekend, I'll give is a shot and report back.

Thank for your help.

[Joshpow]

Thanks guys. Glad to hear that the bushings are the same.

[Jason]

ok i was under the truck last night and was looking at the bushings to see how bad it really was. The Radius arm bushings are shot but the pivot arm bushings look and feel fine ( couldn't find any movement ) how do tell if they really need replaced. I don't want to tear it apart until i figure out if I want to replace the entire front end. But i will do the Radius arm bushing since they are nearly gone

[cdherman]

My 40 year old axel bushings were not in bad shape either. I replaced them, but I have read elsewhere that the axel bushings are usually OK. If you can take back your new bushings or you havn't purchased them yet, I'd say its safe to just keep the old ones.....

[flyboy2610]

Most all urethane bushing kits do not come with the outer shell. You must reuse the ones on your truck.
You do not have to remove the outer shells. When I removed the rubber portion of mine, I drilled a good number of holes through the rubber, then pried it out with a long screwdriver and chisel. The urethane bushings then slid into the outer shells with no problem.
This job is easier if you remove the I-beams from the vehicle.

[69timemachine]

In case you decide to go ahead and change them, you may have little scraps of rubber left in the bushing shells after you extract the old rubber. You can use a small wire wheel on a die grinder or drill to clean the bushing shells. Don't forget to use silicone grease to lube the new poly bushings and keep them from squeaking.