Can someone tell me how to remove the crossmembers so i can get my MX automatic trans out? I have removed all the bolts on the front member but i cant get it out of the way. On the back one that the trans sits on do i need to remove the 2 bolts that go into the trans? Also do i need to completely remove the driveshaft?? Thanks
67 F-250 352 Auto MX medium case
Transmission Removal
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- DuckRyder
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re: Transmission Removal
You will probably have to remove the two bolts holding the trans mount to the trans and slide the mount to the side to get it out. Then you should be able to remove the transmission cross member.
On the suspension crossmember, there are 4 bolts per side, 2 upper and two lower. The wiring on the left side also sometimes binds it up. it may have 2 small rivets in the top between the bolts if it has never been out.
Once you are sure everything is loose whack it with a big rubber/plastic/deadblow hammer toward the rear and it should come out.
On the suspension crossmember, there are 4 bolts per side, 2 upper and two lower. The wiring on the left side also sometimes binds it up. it may have 2 small rivets in the top between the bolts if it has never been out.
Once you are sure everything is loose whack it with a big rubber/plastic/deadblow hammer toward the rear and it should come out.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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Re: re: Transmission Removal
On the suspension crossmember, there are 4 bolts per side, 2 upper and two lower. The wiring on the left side also sometimes binds it up. it may have 2 small rivets in the top between the bolts if it has never been out.
I can move it around quite a bit but just cant get an angle to remove it. Do i knock it forward or backward? What about the driveshaft?
I can move it around quite a bit but just cant get an angle to remove it. Do i knock it forward or backward? What about the driveshaft?
- DuckRyder
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re: Transmission Removal
Knock it rearward, once it is behind the mounts it should drop down so you can pull the trans.
I would pull the drive shaft just to make it easier to work and reduce the chance of knocking a cap off and having to put all the little needle bearings back.
I would pull the drive shaft just to make it easier to work and reduce the chance of knocking a cap off and having to put all the little needle bearings back.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
- willowbilly3
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re: Transmission Removal
I would also say go ahead and pull the drive shaft and get it out of the way. You might be able to leave it but in the long run it will cost you more time, especially if you loose a cap, which you will, then you have to take it out anyway AND buy a new U-joint.
Great ideas have always encounter violent opposition from mediocre minds.
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Re: re: Transmission Removal
[quote="DuckRyder"]Knock it rearward, once it is behind the mounts it should drop down so you can pull the trans.
It will not come out. I knocked it past the mounts (hope i did not damage the wires...) but there is no room get it out with the trans support behind it. I guess i will have to leave it and hope the trans will have enough room to pass.
It will not come out. I knocked it past the mounts (hope i did not damage the wires...) but there is no room get it out with the trans support behind it. I guess i will have to leave it and hope the trans will have enough room to pass.
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re: Transmission Removal
Do in need to remove the carpet and remove some bolts from the access hole in the floor to remove the tranny?