Axle and cab question

[boots]

Ok, im picking up fefordtruck's 2WD 69 f100 but I have a few questions for you ford guys
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... ht=#214717

Will a rear dana 60 8 lug out of a 68 f250 bolt up to the 69 f100?

Also, ive been studying the cabs and it seems that on the 2WD f100s (at least my 67) the back cab mounts right before the bed are inside the frame rails on top of the crossmember. On my f250 4X4 (which has a custom t-case member) they are on the outside of the frame rails. Will this cab bolt up to my f250?


my f250 4x4 the 69 f100 cab will be going on



a f100 pic from another thread...note the body mounts

[fordman]

i didn't know the cab mounts were different on those trucks but i would think you could just drill some holes in the rear cab floor to make it fit.

[boots]

i didn't know the cab mounts were different on those trucks but i would think you could just drill some holes in the rear cab floor to make it fit.

yea, this is a rust free truck , and one way or the other im getting the cab and im going to make it fit

[Blue Cloud]

I never noticed before but the cab on my 71 F250 4x4 does have the rear mounts on the outside of the frame. That's something good to know.

[averagef250]

The spots for both 2wd and 4x4 cab mounts are clearly marked on the bottom of the cab. All you have to do is drill the new holes.

F-100 2wd and F-250 2wd use the inside frame mounts. All 4x4's and F-350's use the outside cab mounts.

Looking at your frame, it looks like you're really going to need to hack the bottom of the cab to clear your t-case mount. Or body lift a bunch.

Why did you change the t-case mount? Seams to me turning it like that makes for more clearance, but it also moves the t-case input down several inches or more which would cause center driveline issues.

Also, are you going to run something to make up for losing the t-case crossmember? Frames flex a bunch. I'd be worried about break the transfer case case from stress from the frame under articulation.

[boots]

The spots for both 2wd and 4x4 cab mounts are clearly marked on the bottom of the cab. All you have to do is drill the new holes.

F-100 2wd and F-250 2wd use the inside frame mounts. All 4x4's and F-350's use the outside cab mounts.

Looking at your frame, it looks like you're really going to need to hack the bottom of the cab to clear your t-case mount. Or body lift a bunch.

Why did you change the t-case mount? Seams to me turning it like that makes for more clearance, but it also moves the t-case input down several inches or more which would cause center driveline issues.

Also, are you going to run something to make up for losing the t-case crossmember? Frames flex a bunch. I'd be worried about break the transfer case case from stress from the frame under articulation.

Thanks alot for the info. Yes I know im going to have to modify the cab to clear the t-case, and im not a fan of body lifts so thats a no-no. I moved the t-case so I could get clearance. The t-case mount is stronger than the original, and the entire rear frame has a 1/4" angle iron base and SCH tubing, it wont flex. check my sig for more pics of it. I have no driveline issues at all, I just need to set my camber on my front axle.

[averagef250]

What is SCH tubing?

What are your center driveline U-joint angles with this setup? And why would you need to change the front axle camber? Trying to raise the pinion? The spring pads should be at zero degrees to frame reference level for all straight axle Fords to get the 4 degrees negative kingpin angle.

I guess the reason why I'm asking this stuff is my '70 was modified after leaving the factory by Willock Manufacturing with a twisting joint between the cab and bed. To make this work all the drivetrain angles were reworked and the t-case mount was very different. I fought center driveline issues for a very long time trying to make it work. To make a long story short, it was impossible to make the divorced case work for a whole mess of reasons.

The big crux of changing the t-case location is you will always end up making the center driveline U-joint angles worse. Divorced cases naturally have a very bad tendancy to buck HARD under load and when you increase these U-joint angles it amplifies this tendancy. I had some massive struts and poly mounts to try and hold the D24 from kicking under load, but because of the poor 24 design that makes a low mount strut impossible and the 6 degree or so U-joint angles I gave up.

I'm really curious to see how your setup works, Just from my experience, I would not eliminate the t-case crossmember and I'd run poly mounts and try to figure out a very stout strut if you can.

[boots]

sorry, its SCH pipe, sch 40 ( the number depends on how thick it is) to be exact. Its like the DOM of PIPE, ive seen alot of guys on pirate 4x4 run this stuff and flip with no problems.

Are you talking about the angle of the driveshaft from trans to t-case?
The t-case input shaft leading to the trans and the one leading to the rear driveshaft are theoretically in the exact same position (besides being rotated a little bit) This is why I see no problem running the t-case this way. The only thing that changed is that it was rotated up, which made the front driveshaft output higher up, which means I need a longer front d-shaft and need to change the pinion angle.

Yes, I need to change the front pinion angle becuase of the t-case raising up, and because I have a 3" lift over stock. Im getting a dana 60 front for the truck, going to set my pinion by turning the c's and rewelding.

[averagef250]

That's not bad at all then if the input's in the same spot. The pics make it look lower than stock I guess.

I'm talking about the actual angles of the U-joints in the center driveline. The angle of the driveline has no bearing on anything. U-joints have to be phased and angles need to match. Stock highboy center driveline U-joints are 3 degrees for a manual and 4 degrees for a C-6.

Rotating the t-case in the same plane as stock means it's angle didn't change, so the factory front pinion angle is ideal if U-joint angles aren't maxed out. If you're switching to a HP60, the 60 has the pinion "up" to the same degree as the low pinion is pointed down. You can't change the angle unless you go to a CV front driveline otherwise your U-joint angles won't match.

With a HP60 and the divorced case, even rotated up, and just a 3" lift, raising the front pinion is going to make things worse I'd think.

Schedule 40 pipe, Gotcha.

[boots]

That's not bad at all then if the input's in the same spot. The pics make it look lower than stock I guess.

I'm talking about the actual angles of the U-joints in the center driveline. The angle of the driveline has no bearing on anything. U-joints have to be phased and angles need to match. Stock highboy center driveline U-joints are 3 degrees for a manual and 4 degrees for a C-6.

Rotating the t-case in the same plane as stock means it's angle didn't change, so the factory front pinion angle is ideal if U-joint angles aren't maxed out. If you're switching to a HP60, the 60 has the pinion "up" to the same degree as the low pinion is pointed down. You can't change the angle unless you go to a CV front driveline otherwise your U-joint angles won't match.

With a HP60 and the divorced case, even rotated up, and just a 3" lift, raising the front pinion is going to make things worse I'd think.

Schedule 40 pipe, Gotcha.

Yes, and sorry I left something out, as you said.. the d60 is a HP. I still may modify the d60 angle very slightly because my front hanger and rear shackles are not stock. The longer rear shackles up front caused the dana 44 pinion to actually point down, the HP will help it move up, but I cant say if I will have to change it until I get it.

If you dont understand why the front angle is point down,and why I may have to modify the HP60's pinion think of it this way.

When you buy a lift kit for the f250, they give you lift springs, the stock shackles and hanger stays in the same place.... I made longer shackles and a new front hanger (the shackles actually gave it more lift than the hanger did which is my mistake) so that the longer the rear shackles are the more the axle will face down, if you have shorter shackles, the pinion will raise up.

[boots]

i did some paint to show you waht im talking about,

[averagef250]

I follow you there.

The low pinion ford 44's pinions do point down at about 5 degrees anyway.

Should be an easy problem to fix with camber shims then.