rebuilding a Dana 60

[Kurt Combs]

I have a 1972, F-250, with what I blieve to be about 3:73 gears in the differential. The guy who sold me the truck said that the surface that the seal runs against is damaged and causes a leak at the right rear wheel. They ground the surface down with some type of a portable grinding machine. Seal still leaks pretty bad. I am assuming that my only choice is to change out the rear-end housing. While doing this swap I would like to keep my 3:73 gears or go higher ratio. Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to swap the parts from one rear end to another? Is there some amount of shimming and measuring that is required?

Thanks in advance.

Kurt Combs

[Kurt Combs]

Basketcase,

Thanks for the information on the Dana 60 rebuild. The guy that sold me the truck said it was the seal area and he has been correct on all he told me about the truck. I have never disassemble a 3/4 ton rear axel so I don't have a visual image of the surface that is damaged, but he said a housing replacement was the only way to cure the problem. I will look around for a housing as my gears are good, of course, if I can find an inexpensive complete unit I will use it instead.

I see you have a move in mind for the future. Sounds like it would be to an area without mosquitoes? Good luck with the relocation.

Kurt

[Sharkdance]

Kurt,

I think the seal he is refering to is the hub seal on the inside of the hub. It rides on the spindle tube while the axle shaft itself is sealed with a gasket on the outside of the hub.
To pull the hub off an 8 lug Dana60 you have to pull the axle shafts first because the axle shafts run all the way thru the hub.
Im not sure that made sense so I have a few pix to help explain what Im trying to say.

[Sharkdance]

Continued:

What makes a Dana 60 unique from the Ford 9" is that you can remove the axles without even pulling the wheel. You could actualy pull both axles out of a Dana 60 and still push the truck around.
This is because the wheel bearings do not ride on the axle shaft. They ride on a spindle tube.
Thats one thing that makes them so heavy duty. All of the weight is supported on the spindle tube, not the axle and rear end housing like a 9".

Once the axles are removed, there are two lock nuts threaded onto the spindle tube that hold the hub on to the housing.

Again, more pix:

[Sharkdance]

Continued:

Other unique things about the Dana 60 is that you cant just swap out a third member like you could with a Ford 9"
The ring and pinion are held in the rear end housing and require special tools to remove them and precision setup to re-install them.

As far as the hub and drum, they are pressed together with the wheel bolts.

[Sharkdance]

This is what can happen to a Dana 60 if its not set up correctly.

I strongly suggest either swapping out a used good rear end assembly or hiring a professional to set up your ring and pinion for you. (a VERY expensive service)

[Kurt Combs]

Sharkdance,

Thanks for the pics and all the info. I think I will look for a complete rearend and change out the whole thing. Now if I can just find a good unit with a decent gear ratio! I currently have 3:73 gears and I don't want to go any lower if I can avoid it.

Thanks again for your post. Kurt

[Sharkdance]

Kurt Combs,

Your in CA. right? Take a look here to find a used D60. http://www.car-part.com/

If you can get one tell them you want it drum to drum. That is best.
That way you can just swap it out and drive. (And hopefully stop)

Check the tag on your existing housing and match the # with anything you find.
If you cant find a matching # D60 then whatch your brake size. The 12X2 1/2" brakes have a different spindle tube size than the 12X2" brakes.
The D60 with the bigger brakes have a heavier spindle tube.
Its fine if you get one drum to drum, but if you dont then you cant swap hubs,drums,or backing plates between the two.

[dcbullet]

What a great series of pictures sharkdance!

[Kurt Combs]

Sharkdance,

Dcbullet is right, that was an awesome series of pictures of the spindle. I really appreciate your time and trouble. I checked out the link you posted for car-part.com and it looks to be very useful. By doing a search on that site I now know what the going rate if for a complete rear-end, and of course where one is located.

Thanks again.

Kurt

[willowbilly3]

If they didn't monkey it up too bad you can install a speedi-sleeve to have a new seal surface. You will need to make a tool to install them though because the one they come with is too shallow. I have taken the speedi-sleeve to a muffler shop and had them expand a section of exhaust pipe to fit.
Setting up a gear set isn't rocket science but setting up used gears in a different housing, you can't get it perfect. Most of the older Motors or Chiltons give you the theory and pictures of proper and improper patterns and how to correct it. The big secret on the 60 is to have a set of (set-up) bearings for the carrier. These bearings are pressed on and the shims go in behind them, so everytime you have to pull the bearings you ruin the shim pack. What you do is take a set of bearings and slightly enlarge the center so they fit just loose enough to slide on and off. The only special too you need is the puller for those side bearings and you should be able to rent one. Once you get the shims correct you can have the new bearings pressed on. Just remember that the carrier needs to fit very tight into the housing so the bearings have preload. There is a spreader tool for the housing but they are a clumsy contraption and I have never used them. The rearend I set up in my 72 without the spreader has almost 200,000 on the original gears and 100,000 since I added posi and reshimmed it.

[kid]

The best deal is to find a heavy truck suspension and drive train shop. Bam a couple of hundred later the problem is gone. Dana Rear ends have been used forever and many of the heavier trucks have used the 60 and 70 just as long as us F series guys have. If you have 20,000 in an old Heavy truck in those days you fix them forever.

[Kurt Combs]

I bought a complete rear end at the local wrecking yard to $250. I am going to rebuild the brakes and then install the whole unit. The advantage to this is that I will be going from 3:70 to 3:54 gears and hopefully solving the leak problem. I would have done the sleeve thing, but I had already purchase the rear end when that post was made. Thanks everyone for your posts, I will let you know how the swap goes, but it will be awhile before I have time to work on it.

Kurt

[kid]

I also am looking for 3.45 from my 4.10 since the parts to restore the NP435 from Ford's version of a 4 speed to the original NP 435 5 speed design is available here on at a Semi/Heavy truck shop.

That is a good deal to. Does it have Posi?

[Sharkdance]

I bought a complete rear end at the local wrecking yard to $250. I am going to rebuild the brakes and then install the whole unit. The advantage to this is that I will be going from 3:70 to 3:54 gears and hopefully solving the leak problem. I would have done the sleeve thing, but I had already purchase the rear end when that post was made. Thanks everyone for your posts, I will let you know how the swap goes, but it will be awhile before I have time to work on it.

Kurt

So how goes it?