I didnt do my home work

[fordman]

yea i was just trying to point you in the right direction to find the wire. sorry. i also didnt know the wire was a short run. i thought it just had a color change from pink.

[Supermike]

No problem, fordman... appreciate the help!

[Supermike]

On mine, the pink resistor wire went from the ignition switch to a black connector at the center of the dash. The other side of that connector was three wires going out to the engine bay: 1 to the coil, one to the water temp sensor, and one to the oil pressure sensor. See this print for a '67: http://www.fordification.com/images/sch ... gauges.jpg
Connector "D" shows wire # 016A, which is the pink resistor wire going over to the ignition switch. This wire is also connected to wire # 262 at terminal "D", which is a brown wire that goes out to the solenoid switch. The other side of connector "D" is the three wires that go out to the coil, water temp sensor, and oil pressure sensor in the engine bay.
My '69 was almost identical!

Okay... after much "digging" around under my dash and cleaning some wires so the colors are identifiable (haha), I'm starting to get this sorted out. What I've found is pretty much in-line with what Robert has reported. I am currently working on a diagram and will post it here when I've got it finished, for future reference.

My problem right now is that, although I've identified the infamous "Pink" wire (it's a thicker wire and is more of a dull pink than a bright pink), it quickly disappears into my harness and routes somewhere behind the instrument panel. When it comes OUT of the harness, it's Red-Grn. SO, I can't really find where it changes from the Pink to the Red-Grn without removing the dash panel and/or cutting into the harness, which surprisingly thus far has not been done behind the dash.

[lrjetmech]

cutting into the harness, which surprisingly thus far has not been done behind the dash.

Go ahead, hack into that harness, don't you want yours to be like everyone else's? Do you think you're special?

[Supermike]

LOL! I know... I don't want to be 'that guy".

I'm thinking (aka "trying to figure out") if I cut the Red-Grn wire on the opposite side of the connector (between the connector and where it passes through the firewall to the coil), splice in a new wire, then run it to where the Red-Grn wire comes OUT of the harness and connects to the ignition (cut/splice there), if that would be an effective bypass?

But then, what would that do to the Brown wire (#262)?

Perhaps I should cut the "pink" wire on the non-firewall side and connect it directly to the Red-Grn wire going into the ignition, but I sure don't have much wire to work with before it enters the harness!

PS... my 3-yr-old son (sitting on my lap) wanted me to insert this smiley... perhaps he's trying to tell me something:

[4th effie n counting]

when did they stop using actual ballast resistors? I had a 60 f100 and it had one that used a valve cover bolt to hold it down.
Supermike are you using the original pertronix or the pertronixII? I bet my wiring is just as jacked since i can't even locate my 2nd flasher

[Supermike]

I'm looking to install the Pertronix II, as it has a little hotter spark and does not fry the coil if you leave the key in the "on" position.

I think they stopped using the resistors in the early 60s... maybe even '66.

[fordman]

if your going to cut the wiring to install this thing i woudl cut it so that the brown wire stays active. no bumps ever came factory with a resistor block. only the resistor wire.

[Supermike]

OKAY... check this out, folks, and tell me what you think!

PS... if this isn't right, I give up...

Actually, I may have the BROWN wire incorrectly going into the harness, which I can correct. But that's kind of inconsequential.

(EDIT original diagram deleted... new one added below)

[fordman]

yes that is what has been talked about.

[Thunderfoot]

yes that is what has been talked about.

that is it!
The brown wire is connected right there at that connector to the pink wire so it will still work just as it does now! This Brown wire comes from the starter solenoid and gives the coil wire 12V boost during starting, but since you are making it where it always has 12V it really don't matter any more if it works or not.
You're all set, now go!

[Supermike]

Aha! So I CAN cut the wire between the "D" connector and the (inside) firewall, and then splice it to the Red-Grn wire at the ignition, thus bypassing BOTH the Pink and Brown wires!?

That's what I was wondering above... it differs from my diagram a bit, but would essentially have the same effect.

[Supermike]

Alrighty...

Worked this weekend to clean up the "rats nest" I previously described and posted the picture of. As it turns out, I'm a lucky dude! One wire that was wrapped up underneath routed under the dash, out the firewall, down the brake lines, and ended... no-where. So I pulled it all out. The rest of the wiring turned out to be all stereo related and with some wire crimpers and nuts, it is completely cleaned up and tucked away under the dash now! The stereo sounds better, and the only cut/spliced wire was the one that gives it juice. The worst thing I found was that my stereo tabs were broken off (bummer). Outside that, the only "hack" to my wiring appears to be for the horn!

Now... all that aside, I've revised the diagram for installing the Pertronix II in our trucks. I think this one makes more sense, based upon the info from Thunderfoot on the Brown wire not being necessary. That allowed me to changed the location of the splice to an area where there is more room for making a cut that would be easier to fix later, thereby bypassing BOTH the Pink and Brown wires.

Check it out and chip in your

[Thunderfoot]

Yep that will work, I would just go right to the coil with the new wire like you have in your note, as you're already outside the firewall at this point anyway...

Edit: I looked at your diagram again and seen that this plug is inside the firewall either way then... doing it inside the firewall will make it look more stock in the engine compartment, if your wires look good out there then inside would be cool.

[Supermike]

Yeah... I kind of figured I'd do that... the only thing I'm not sure about is what kind of connector to put on the end for the coil, or what kind to buy, at least...