EFI Bump
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- flatblack
- New Member
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 12:43 pm
- Location: Seven Persons, Alberta
Re: EFI Bump
all i do is weld the tube shut and weld the bung that goes into the intake and plug it in, it doesnt read by pressure i dont think it just needs to open and close the valve, if theres nothing there it will throw a code
Nitrous is like a hot girl with std's... you know you want to hit it but your afraid of the consequences
- Redcap
- Blue Oval Fanatic
- Posts: 947
- Joined: Mon Dec 20, 2004 10:29 pm
- Location: Washington, Centralia
- Contact:
Re: EFI Bump
Edited. Sorry, drunk post.
Last edited by Redcap on Sun Mar 22, 2009 6:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- scott123
- New Member
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 3:57 pm
- Location: 1972 Camper Special
Re: EFI Bump
I just mounted the egr low on the inner fender and plugged it in.
1972 Camper Special
5.0 EFI TFV-IV Ignition Auto O/D
5.0 EFI TFV-IV Ignition Auto O/D
- scott123
- New Member
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 3:57 pm
- Location: 1972 Camper Special
Re: EFI Bump
OK, The tow beast is finally done. Except for permanently mounting the wiring harness and 1 code issue that may take awhile. Oh yeah and getting the TPS adjusted perfectly. Close but not there yet.
I had it out on Hwy 291 at 70 MPH and it ran perfect. So smooth you cant feel any (engine) vibration (or any at all for that matter). I got the downshift cable adjusted so it kicks out of overdrive into passing gear with minimal pressure on the throttle. I know that O/D is for highway travel but it sure is sweet to go 40 MPH with just the weight of your foot on the accel.
Got the pesky tranny cooler line leak to quit. Found my issue with the lack of power and vibration at mid range was the "spout connector" to the Distributor. These computer engines are so sensitive to just a little corrosion on a connection.
The code(s) I get is (are) all EGR. I left the EGR controls hooked into the wiring and mounted the EGR valve on the inner fender to push a signal to the computer, (hello....Im heeeere!, and I work).
I don't know if the Brain is responding to the EGR signal and contradictory environment (no smog stuff and capped EGR port) or getting the signal and providing environment. Next I will try rerouting the vacuum to actually control the solenoids and EGR valve and see if that kills the code. Otherwise I need to figure out where to park a resistor to fool the comp.
Final or semi final report.
1st tank of fuel after motor swap. 8.5 MPG, I lost .5 MPG. Almost all city driving. Not enough power to run comfortably down the highway.
2nd tank of fuel, after diagnoses and repair prompted by the first tank of fuel. just shy of 18 MPG. All city driving and 2 trips down the highway of about 5 miles each. Gained 9 MPG from pre swap. I have a few more mods to do. The most significant being a second muffler on each dual, (Its very quiet but I want it to just whisper) and a few other fuel saver rigs and I cant wait to see what it does on a road trip pulling a boat!!!!
Final thought. I don't recommend this swap to someone that is conversant in carbs and not fuel Inj or waaaaaay comfy with wiring.
I had it out on Hwy 291 at 70 MPH and it ran perfect. So smooth you cant feel any (engine) vibration (or any at all for that matter). I got the downshift cable adjusted so it kicks out of overdrive into passing gear with minimal pressure on the throttle. I know that O/D is for highway travel but it sure is sweet to go 40 MPH with just the weight of your foot on the accel.
Got the pesky tranny cooler line leak to quit. Found my issue with the lack of power and vibration at mid range was the "spout connector" to the Distributor. These computer engines are so sensitive to just a little corrosion on a connection.
The code(s) I get is (are) all EGR. I left the EGR controls hooked into the wiring and mounted the EGR valve on the inner fender to push a signal to the computer, (hello....Im heeeere!, and I work).
I don't know if the Brain is responding to the EGR signal and contradictory environment (no smog stuff and capped EGR port) or getting the signal and providing environment. Next I will try rerouting the vacuum to actually control the solenoids and EGR valve and see if that kills the code. Otherwise I need to figure out where to park a resistor to fool the comp.
Final or semi final report.
1st tank of fuel after motor swap. 8.5 MPG, I lost .5 MPG. Almost all city driving. Not enough power to run comfortably down the highway.
2nd tank of fuel, after diagnoses and repair prompted by the first tank of fuel. just shy of 18 MPG. All city driving and 2 trips down the highway of about 5 miles each. Gained 9 MPG from pre swap. I have a few more mods to do. The most significant being a second muffler on each dual, (Its very quiet but I want it to just whisper) and a few other fuel saver rigs and I cant wait to see what it does on a road trip pulling a boat!!!!
Final thought. I don't recommend this swap to someone that is conversant in carbs and not fuel Inj or waaaaaay comfy with wiring.
1972 Camper Special
5.0 EFI TFV-IV Ignition Auto O/D
5.0 EFI TFV-IV Ignition Auto O/D
- scott123
- New Member
- Posts: 78
- Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2009 3:57 pm
- Location: 1972 Camper Special
Re: EFI Bump
3rd Tank of fuel. 19.08 MPG, unbelievable!!! all in town stop and go miles, hauled 2 loads of wood and a few other haulings that have been missed since she went down and 24 miles on the hi9ghway
1972 Camper Special
5.0 EFI TFV-IV Ignition Auto O/D
5.0 EFI TFV-IV Ignition Auto O/D