knock knock knock

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marxtoys
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Re: knock knock knock

Post by marxtoys »

loweredf1 wrote:well guys i finally got tore into it this weekend. found # 3 rod bearing trashed it was doin some spinning also #4 wasnt spun but was tore up pretty good. crank doesnt have any deep grooves but will definetly need turned and what about #3 rod is there any thing that can be done for it?
The machine shop can resize the rod. Not real spendy.
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DuckRyder
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Re: knock knock knock

Post by DuckRyder »

Correct, if it is not too bad (if it is all blue from heat you probably want a "new" one) then they can take a little off the rod and cap mating surfaces which will make the big end smaller and then re size it by machineing the end back to size.
Robert
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Re: knock knock knock

Post by James72 »

I'd toss the #3 rod, even if it's round which it wont likely be, you don't want one resized rod in there. :2cents:

Im not sure I agree with Duckrider, wouldn't that process shorten the rod slightly when it is resized? Plus you will know there is a new one in there and never have to wonder if it's good enough or be afraid to tromp on it.
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loweredf1
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Re: knock knock knock

Post by loweredf1 »

yea i think its tore up i will have to see if i can find my balence sheet and get a new rod close to the same weight
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DuckRyder
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Re: knock knock knock

Post by DuckRyder »

It is an extremely common process.

Yes, it shortens it just a bit but we are talking about miniscule amounts and there is no garentee a "new" one won't be further off than the rebuilt one.

Since we seem to be talking about an aftermarket rod that might be available new it might be easier to replace, but as I said if it isn't too bad it COULD be fixed.
Robert
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"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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Re: knock knock knock

Post by fordman »

i never knew these coul dbe turned down or fixed. i was always taught that you got new ones. i guess i will try that on my next bad one.
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Re: knock knock knock

Post by DuckRyder »

fordman wrote:i never knew these coul dbe turned down or fixed. i was always taught that you got new ones. i guess i will try that on my next bad one.
For real?

Lets see if this works:

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Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)

"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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DuckRyder
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Re: knock knock knock

Post by DuckRyder »

One other thing...

Rods don't just spin big end bearings, something is wrong.

Could have been a bad rod, a bad bearing, and out of spec crank, a nicked crank, oil starvation or probably close to a hundred other things, but I'd sure have the thing strewn all over a workbench doing a post mortum...

You need to get the metal out of the oiling system as well so a complete tear down is in order.
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)

"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
loweredf1
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Re: knock knock knock

Post by loweredf1 »

yea its stripped bare. im thinking the cold morning heavy oilo and high rpm run starved it for oil. but i will be starting at point a and starting over so hopefully will catch anything that might have slipped through the first time
1967 F-100 narrowed and tubbed
351W with a big hit of NOS - built C6 with tci reverse pattern full manual trans brake valve body hughes 3500 pro street stall
air ride suspension
4 corner disc brakes
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