Did a little more sandblasting today

[FORDification]

I spent all morning and half the afternoon getting started on the final item needed to complete my rolling chassis, and that was the in-frame fuel tank setup. I decided that I had to at least get the skidplate and mounting hardware sandblasted and painted...which I was able to do. Here's a pic: on the left is the skidplate after being sandblasted, wiped down, coated with MetalReady and then hosed down again. On the right is the finished product, with 2 coats of POR-15 and several light coats of Krylon semi-flat black.



Now I just gotta find somebody in the area who can boil out my fuel tank and then seal it. Then the tank will be sandblasted, painted and installed....and it'll finally be time to get started on the body.

[4x4x4crewcab]

Keith
Looks great --I hope the outside of my truck turns out half as good as the underside of your truck looks------ keep up the good work

[FORDification]

Thanks Mark. It's not looking too bad, though I did want to add this pic. This is a closeup of the skidplate after I was completely done with it. (The best that my digital could muster.) I just bought the POR-15 in quarts and then brushed it on. I understood that it would smooth out...but it really didn't. However, since it was for something on the bottom side of a daily-driven truck, I wasn't overly concerned about it. But for future reference, I WILL have to make sure I thin this stuff out for further use if appearance is that important.

[FORDification]

Well, I decided to run up the credit card a little bit more. After doing some research into getting my fuel tank boiled out and sealed, I decided to just go ahead and tackle it myself. I just placed an order for POR-15's Auto Fuel Tank Repair Kit, which wasn't bad at $55 (plus $10 S&H). They say there's enough product to clean/seal a 25-gallon tank, which is what my aux. tank is.

I did some calling around to track down a local radiator shop who could do this service for me, and after spending some time on the phone talking with the owner of one, I decided that this was something I could do myself. My tank is actually in darned good shape...no gum or varnish, just a little bit of very minor surface rust along the bottom. The guy at the radiator shop told me to just clean that out with muratic acid and flush it out with acetone (since it dries faster). But I was worried about how the acetone might affect the adhesion of the sealer, so after pondering this for a few days I just decided to go with the POR-15 kit, since I know they make quality products. Besides, it'll give me another opportunity to put together a "How I Dunnit" page for the website.

[FORDification]

The POR-15 kit came in the mail today...no telling when I'll get the chance to get started on that, but I might take Friday off from work to do that, depending how my workload is.

[FoMoCo]

Nothing wrong with taking a day off work. Im intersted in you gas tank POR-15 project. Im using the stock in-cab tank from a 64 custom cab. It's extremly clean inside and out, but why risk running crap through a new elec pump.

Nick Wilson

[morganater]

Just a question, what are you doing with the underside of your cab, just typical primer and paint setup? I know it will be a brand new dent and rust free beautiful cab

[FORDification]

I'll be giving it a couple coats of POR-15 and a coat or two of rattlecan paint. But that's after sealing up absolutely every access hole I can find, those that tend to let things get filled with dirt and debris. I'm going to be completely sealing off the crosscab brace from the bottom, and then drilling one hole down from the top (inside the cab) and filling that brace with body wax. I should never have to worry about rust in that area again. After welding in the new cab corners, I'll be using the body wax treatment on the inside of the cab corners too. I'll also be using the POR-15 in the driprail area (under the headliner), inside and outside firewall, and inside the door pillars (by reaching in the hinge access holes.)

I don't want this thing to EVER rust again....OK, at least not for a long long time.

[Ironbelly67]

Wow, before we know it, this baby'll be taking on the shape of a rust and weatherproof classic ford that should last 108 years. Great progress, Keith!

[FORDification]

Well, it's actually looking like I'll be able to get in the shop again this weekend, since all the holiday rushing is over. I plan to hit the ground running first thing Saturday morning to get started on cleaning out the fuel tank and coating it inside. If I can get the inside completely done by the time I go home Friday night, I might be able to also get started on sandblasting the outside on Sunday (depending on if I can sweet-talk my wife into not getting PO'ed at me for spending the whole weekend in the shop!)

I suppose I should probably stop by Friday night to crank up the furnace to it'll be about 70 degrees inside for when I get to work Saturday morning. I'll have the camera with me, so there should be a neat tutorial on how to clean and coat a fuel tank by the beginning of next week.

[Comet]

Keith, instead of POR-15 for areas you want smooth, try Eastwood's Rust Encapsulater. It comes in rattle can form and does the same as POR-15, but is tougher IMO. I sprayed my Jeep wheel wells with it and no chips. With all the rocks and gravel I spit out out of my tires, I'm pretty impressed with it. It also comes in a nice flat black, so no painting over it and no primer required.

[FORDification]

Hmmm....actually, that's not a bad idea at all. I just might have to pick up a couple cans of that and give it a try. Thanks Comet!

[Ironbelly67]

Eastwood encapsulator is good stuff. I've used it on various bolts and screws and other rusty areas that are hard to derust thoroughly and it holds paint well.