Tranny goes bad because of missing kickdown tube?

xxxtina63 · Post by **xxxtina63** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 1:13 am

This may be a long shot, but sometimes the springs/plungers in the valve body will stick/become weak. If stuck it can cause late shifting due to the line pressure has to increase to overcome the sticking. If weak, can cause it to shift prematurely as line pressure to move the component is less than normal. My advice: learn to live with and run it till it dies, or be ready to start replacing parts/get rebuild. A cooler may help it live longer.

rjewkes · Post by **rjewkes** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 3:24 am

Is the green circled one actualy vacuum or is it a vent like on the model 2100 autolite/motorcraft?

hope you get it figured and straightened out.

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 3:29 am

its to low for a vent

rjewkes · Post by **rjewkes** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 3:45 am

somehow i think it must be pulling too much vaccum from the green one. hope i don't have this trouble when i swap up to a 4 barrell.

1968flareside · Post by **1968flareside** » Thu Mar 30, 2006 12:16 pm

According to what I can find, both ports I circled are vac. ports. Look at the picture at the bottom of the following page. It's either very vague or they are saying these ports are interchangeable.... http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new ... main.shtml

xxxtina, thanks for your input. I've gotten pretty good at manually shifting my auto!!

Like I said, I'm just trying to see if there is a fix for it in it's current condition. The tranny has been pretty much dormant since '96.

bleedfordblue · Post by **bleedfordblue** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 9:51 am

OK! now then... the vaccuum port on the right is for constant vaccuum to the distributor. The vaccuum port on the left is a TIMED vaccuum port to the distributor.
your mod. needs to have manifold vacuum, not carburetor source vacuum.
Oh yeah, you will get better engine performance if you hook your distributor to the right side (constant).
Good luck!

1968flareside · Post by **1968flareside** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 11:55 am

bleedfordblue wrote:OK! now then... the vaccuum port on the right is for constant vaccuum to the distributor. The vaccuum port on the left is a TIMED vaccuum port to the distributor.
your mod. needs to have manifold vacuum, not carburetor source vacuum.
Oh yeah, you will get better engine performance if you hook your distributor to the right side (constant).
Good luck!

Ok, so, both of the ports go to the distributor? Or, just connect to the one on the right and plug the other? I understand that you are saying that the one on the right is better. I guess I better pull the plug in the manifold and find a proper fitting then.

This would explain why it wasn't doing this the last time I had it running. It had a factory intake with the vac. tree. That's where the mod. line went to. The Edelbrock intake came with plugs screwed into the manifold.

1968flareside · Post by **1968flareside** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 4:18 pm

Ok, I swapped some vac. lines around. I now have the dist. connected to the port on the right in the previous photo. I picked up a fitting and installed it in the port marked in red below....

It is still slipping, but not as bad. I also noticed a similar threaded hole on the other side of the intake. I marked in green above. Does it really matter which one? I know Keith showed a different style Edelbrock intake to me, and indicated the hole I'm connected to now is for the brakes.

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 2319#62319

I think we are almost there......

fordman · Post by **fordman** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 8:09 pm

i think your port selection (the green one) is fine.

Post by **FORDification** » Fri Mar 31, 2006 9:37 pm

Either of those ports on the manifold are constant vacuum, so it doesn't matter which is hooked to the distributor or vacuum booster.

xxxtina63 · Post by **xxxtina63** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 3:05 am

Got to thinking. If this trans has been sitting since 96, it's possible that the seals have shrunk/cracked, especially if it hasn't been run very much. Trans fluid keeps everything lubed. If it's not run, then the fluid sits in the pan and everything dries out. Now that you have your vacuum lines correctly installed perhaps you should give it a little time. Sometimes the seals will swell back up and seal better.

1968flareside · Post by **1968flareside** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 9:07 am

xxxtina63 wrote:Got to thinking. If this trans has been sitting since 96, it's possible that the seals have shrunk/cracked, especially if it hasn't been run very much. Trans fluid keeps everything lubed. If it's not run, then the fluid sits in the pan and everything dries out. Now that you have your vacuum lines correctly installed perhaps you should give it a little time. Sometimes the seals will swell back up and seal better.

From what I'm experiencing, that seems to make sense. I took it on it's longest drive last night. I even jumped on I-10 for about 10 miles. There is no slipping while driving at speed, even up to 75 mph. I've noticed that the slipping is slightly better during shifting. I think I still need to play some catch up on the shift points. I did have time turn it two more times yesterday. I'll keep playing with it....

xxxtina63 · Post by **xxxtina63** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 1:01 pm

Keep us posted

1968flareside · Post by **1968flareside** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 11:52 pm

Will do, thanks for everyone's help, as usual!!!

Jake11 · Post by **Jake11** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 10:57 pm

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Tranny goes bad because of missing kickdown tube?

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