Dipstick Mystery

[LeoZelig]

Yesterday, I changed the oil and filter on our new 69 we bought (adopted?) last week. My plan is to work my way through all the fluids, since I have no idea when they were last changed or topped off. Engine oil seemed like the most important, so I started there. Earlier, I had checked the oil and it was dark (not awful) and up to the "Safe" mark on the dipstick.

It has a 360, and before changing the oil I'd checked the forums for oil capacity - I saw numbers ranging from 5 quarts to 7 quarts, so I started with filling with 5 quarts and then checked the dipstick.

I was flabbergasted at how far up the dipstick the oil level was! It was several inches above the upper "Safe" level (up to red mark)!

Oil Level.jpg

I poured the oil from the drain pan into the now-empty jug, and it came up just shy of two quarts!

So I think it's safe to conclude that: 1. The dipstick marks are incorrect, and 2. It has been quite low on oil.

I found Keith's article on dipsticks and I realized that it's a combination of tube length and dipstick that yield the measurement, and that our trucks often have a spotted history with a mix of parts. There are some part markings on my dipstick: EOAE 6750-HA

Dipstick Markings.jpg

With some Googling, I found that the 6750-HA didn't narrow down the search much at all - no help. The EOAE is interesting because it links to a Ford passenger vehicle engine block code from the 1980s. So is it plausible that I have a dipstick from a 1980s Ford car and that's why the oil level is so far off? Or is something else entirely at work here?

To move forward from here, should I add one more quart of oil (six total) and then mark the dipstick level? Interestingly, while measuring the dipstick I noticed what might be a human-made scratch mark just above the oil level with 5 quarts in it - maybe the owner previous to the previous owner did exactly that?

To wrap up, in case anyone is curious, here are the measurements I took:

Shield to tip: 21 9/16"
Tip to oil level with 5 quarts: 4 7/16"
Oil level to shield: 17 1/8"

Finally, here's a photo of the tube - does it look original to a 360 in a 1969?

Dipstick Tube.jpg

[pcmdub]

That seems a bit long, mine is 19 3/4 tip to top of shield.

You can measure the tube from top to the oil pan and see that 21 9/16" would take you past the bottom. So your stick is laying flat on the bottom of the pan.

The 17 1/8 seems correct. So you need a stick that matches that level.

[LeoZelig]

Hi pcmdub, thank for weighing in.

What you are saying about the dipstick length and laying on the bottom of the pan makes sense, and I appreciate you confirming that the measurements I've shared are in the range we should be looking for. That's a relief and a big help!

I'll keep my eyes open for an original dipstick, but in the meantime I can mark the one I have.

[fastEdsel]

Well, what I would do assuming you have the correct oil pan, change the oil, install a new oil filter, pour in 5 quarts of oil, (that's what all my FE's took) start it up and let it run a couple minutes then shut it off. Pull out your dipstick after about a 20 minute wait and mark on it where the new oil level is, mark it with a gentle line with a steel chisel and in my opinion you should be good. A '69 dipstick will have a "D9" prefix and a 1980 will show a "E0" prefix on the part number. Let us know how that works.

[fastEdsel]

Oooops! A '69 would be "C9", a '79 would be "D9" and a '80 would be "E0." Should have finished my beer before I proof read my post!

[LeoZelig]

Pull out your dipstick after about a 20 minute wait and mark on it where the new oil level is, mark it with a gentle line with a steel chisel and in my opinion you should be good.

Thanks fastEdsel, that is a good plan, and what I'm going to do. The chisel sounds easier than my plan to use a Dremel with a grinding disk .

A '69 would be "C9", a '79 would be "D9" and a '80 would be "E0."

The prefix info will help me in my search for a replacement dipstick, and verifying that I have the right era. Thanks again! Until I find a replacement, I'll have my custom-marked dipstick.

[basketcase0302]

Try the member "part's monkey" over on the dark web/fte if you're looking for verification of the part number before buying.
And like FastEdsel said marking it will give you safe running level, (as you're submerging your crank bearings with too much oil wiping out the bearings).
Would'nt be the first time I've seen someone do this LOL!

Green Sales is a good source for OEM NOS parts.

http://www.greensalescompany.com/

[LeoZelig]

Hey basketcase0302, thanks for the two leads! Especially Green Sales - looks like a good (and fun) resource.

Meanwhile, I marked the dipstick at the 5 quart point, using a steel chisel. That'll get me by until I can source a proper dipstick - that's a bit lower on the priority list .

Thanks again everyone for helping me work through the mystery.

[basketcase0302]

YW on the link.
Another heads up as that most folks here will tell you the 360 is real...bad for it's low oil pressure in it's aging miles.
Highly suggest getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge installed to closely monitor the engine if you'r not planning on a rebuild in the near future.
I personallty drove my 360 for over one year on 5 PSI oil pressure at idle before rebuilding my 302 and getting it swapped in!

That's the "good news" is that the 360 takes a lot...of abuse and keeps on kicking!

[LeoZelig]

I appreciate the oil pressure advice, Basketcase0302. I'll put that on my list of things to do. I'm hoping to wait on a rebuild of the engine, and at least it's encouraging to hear that they thrive on abuse