Roscoe Clyde wrote:I've run two different sets of points with the same results. I had changed my resister wire in the cab a few years ago. I went ahead and changed the section under the hood and then got a new condenser. This resolved all of the sputtering and missing. I sent the carb back, should have a new one Wednesday. I may throw a new set of points and condenser when I put the new carb on.
Thank you,
Roscoe Clyde.
Did you happen to replace resisted wire under the hood with resisted wire?
What kind of voltage readings are you getting off the positive side of the coil when the key is on?
resisted or unresisted coil?
Agree to check the vacuum advance diaphragm in the distributor with a vac gun to make sure it not leaking, but it sounds like you may have some trimming up to do on your carb adjustments, or the carb wasn't rebuilt correctly.
Rich
1973 f350 super c/s 460/c6 22k orig miles
1972 f350 srw crewcab special 390
1972 f250 4x4 sport custom 390fe Red
1972 f250 4x4 custom 360 FE " Ranger Ric"
1972 f250 4x4 custom 84k og miles 390
1971 f250 4x4 sport custom 56k og miles. 360
1970 f250 4x4 428 fe hp60 205 d60
Dont eat yellow snow.....
Roscoe Clyde wrote:I've run two different sets of points with the same results. I had changed my resister wire in the cab a few years ago. I went ahead and changed the section under the hood and then got a new condenser. This resolved all of the sputtering and missing. I sent the carb back, should have a new one Wednesday. I may throw a new set of points and condenser when I put the new carb on.
Thank you,
Roscoe Clyde.
Did you happen to replace resisted wire under the hood with resisted wire?
What kind of voltage readings are you getting off the positive side of the coil when the key is on?
resisted or unresisted coil?
Agree to check the vacuum advance diaphragm in the distributor with a vac gun to make sure it not leaking, but it sounds like you may have some trimming up to do on your carb adjustments, or the carb wasn't rebuilt correctly.
I initially changed the wire with resistor wire and then changed it back to the factory wire. Either way I got like 10 v at the + on the coil. It could still be an issue with the distributor or the carb, just seems strange it would be the same issue with two different carbs and distributors. I'll check the diaphragm first. Either way, I'll get it figured out. I probably just put something on wrong.
I do appreciate all of the responses.
Here's my issue. Getting 6 volts at the coil with the switch on, but it jumps to 12 when it's running. Shouldn't she only get to about 10 at most? I have already changed the resistor wire twice, so I don't believe that is the issue.
ignition switch? Check the voltage on both the resistor attached wire and the ignition/solenoid wire right before the ignition switch where they are spliced together in the switch to make sure your getting the same right out of the switch. Maybe the switch is crossing current between the start and run contacts internally.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
