Tranny goes bad because of missing kickdown tube?
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- 1968flareside
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Thanks Scott. So the band adjustment won't do anything for the slipping going from 2nd to 3rd, correct?
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- rjewkes
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also to update the darksides info the C6 was still beingused uptill atleast 96.They may have named em different but they where C6's
"It is better to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid than to open it and remove all doubt." - Mark Twain
'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.
I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
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'70 f250 4x4 Crew cab 460/C6 '72 F100 390/C6 9.8 MPG AVG. '89 Mercury Cougar LS Dual Exh. V6 . 18.9 MPG AVG. In Town.
I don't want to give em a heart-attack. That is what would happen if I answered the door in the buff. Heck it almost scares me to death when I step out of the shower and look in the mirror.~Mancar1~
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I've had the kickdown tube disconnected from my C6 for over a year. The truck sat for the last 5-7 years before I got it running. The throttle linkage isn't right for my kickdown tube so I just took the tube off and wired it to something on the engine so it stays in the "not kicked down" position. It ain't hurt my tranny any.
72 F100 2wd 360 C6 Custom w/factory PS.
- xxxtina63
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re: Tranny goes bad because of missing kickdown tube?
Proper modulator adjustment will help with the shift points and I highly recommend the Lucas treatment. However, there is no magic cure for wear and tear. Be patient! The Lucas will offer a noticable difference right away but sometimes it will take a few days or a week of driving before you see the maximum benefits of it. Also, over time the benefits will start to degrade. I think Lucas recommends using treatment every other fluid & filter change to minimize this.
Robert
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- bleedfordblue
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sorry bud...
most likely if 3rd is slipping it's beacuse your forward clutches are shot. Does it act any different when its cold rather than when it's hot? If that's the case then you -might- have some hardened seals, but most likely the clutches are at fault. I've got one doing the same thing and it'll have to be rebuilt too.
good luck
Scott
good luck
Scott
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- 1968flareside
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Honestly, I haven't really driven it cold yet. I've been doing so much work that requires checking fluids at normal op. temp. I'll have to pay close attention tomorrow a.m.bleedfordblue wrote:most likely if 3rd is slipping it's beacuse your forward clutches are shot. Does it act any different when its cold rather than when it's hot? If that's the case then you -might- have some hardened seals, but most likely the clutches are at fault. I've got one doing the same thing and it'll have to be rebuilt too.
good luck
Scott
1968 F-100 Flareside
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- jzjames
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re: Tranny goes bad because of missing kickdown tube?
68flareside I just changed the modulator valve on my 67, C4, 300ci six. They gave me the white band mod. valve. I did not touch the screw from the way it came. I carefully unscrewed old mod valve, and took it out together with pin, and stuck my finger in the hole while I got the new one up there to screw it in (with the pin inserted first). I only lost a little fluid. I put on new vacuum hose connection to make sure there was no vacuum leak. Its working fine, although it seems to shift 1-2 early, but maybe thats because my gearing is 3.70. Otherwise its shifting correctly I would say... Just a little feed back for your reference jz
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re: Tranny goes bad because of missing kickdown tube?
If it's slipping in all speeds, the forward clutch is toast. !st, uses forward
clutch. 2nd, uses forward clutch and 2nd band. 3rd, uses forward clutch
and direct/reverse clutch. C6, you said the bell was all one with the case.
C4 is the same too. The modulator is your throttle/pressure valve.
It regulates press. according to throttle opening. The rod that goes on
the carb is just for passing gear. If you have a pressure guage, it would
easier to tell you whats up. 150+ in drive at stall would be barely ok.
clutch. 2nd, uses forward clutch and 2nd band. 3rd, uses forward clutch
and direct/reverse clutch. C6, you said the bell was all one with the case.
C4 is the same too. The modulator is your throttle/pressure valve.
It regulates press. according to throttle opening. The rod that goes on
the carb is just for passing gear. If you have a pressure guage, it would
easier to tell you whats up. 150+ in drive at stall would be barely ok.
- 1968flareside
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I picked up a vacuum gauge today. It's range is 0-30 inches and measures up to 10 psi. So how do I test the vac at the module and what kind of reading should I be getting?
I've taken a couple of trips in it today. It is still only slipping into 3rd. I did a lot of manual shifting to check it out. It seemed to slip 3rd gear at lower speeds. If I got it up to about 40mph and manually shifted into 3rd, no slipping.
I have not had the opportunity to do any adjustments to the modulator yet.
Again, I need some guidance on checking the vacuum at the mod, please.
JZ, thanks for your feedback. Glad it worked for you.
I've taken a couple of trips in it today. It is still only slipping into 3rd. I did a lot of manual shifting to check it out. It seemed to slip 3rd gear at lower speeds. If I got it up to about 40mph and manually shifted into 3rd, no slipping.
I have not had the opportunity to do any adjustments to the modulator yet.
Again, I need some guidance on checking the vacuum at the mod, please.
JZ, thanks for your feedback. Glad it worked for you.
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- CJ,s 67 F100
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re: Tranny goes bad because of missing kickdown tube?
Just hook your vacum gauge up to your vacum tree on your engine and that will tell you how much vacum is to the modulator valve if your vacum line is good.. He said pick up a 150+ pressure gauge to test the pressure in drive. I do not know were to hook it up at on the tranny.
- 1968flareside
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Ok, I'll have to go exchange the one I got.
1968 F-100 Flareside
1999 F-150 XLT 4X4
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and DON'T FORGET!!
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and DON'T FORGET!!
- xxxtina63
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re: Tranny goes bad because of missing kickdown tube?
If you replaced the mod with the same color and both adjustable, then theoretically they would be adjusted pretty close to each other. When you buy a new one they usually come "pre-set", so only minor adjustments are required.
If your old one is screwed almost all the way in and the new one all the way out, my guess is that someone was trying to compensate for transmission wear by gradually adjusting the mod. Like the Lucas, this will only provide benefits to a point.
If your old one is screwed almost all the way in and the new one all the way out, my guess is that someone was trying to compensate for transmission wear by gradually adjusting the mod. Like the Lucas, this will only provide benefits to a point.
Robert
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- willowbilly3
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OK I skimmed a bit. My last wife had an 83 Bronco with a 300 and C6 when I met her. It never had the kickdown hooked up then and we drove it several more years without it. It was ready to go almost 200,000 and at least the last 100,000 without the kickdown.
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- 1968flareside
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re: Tranny goes bad because of missing kickdown tube?
Ok, here's an update....
I have not picked up a psi gauge yet that reads 150. No time to yet. I did hook up my vac. gauge for giggles. It read 15 in. at idle if that means anything to any of you. I could not put it in drive and check it since my e-brake doesn't work. I did replace the vac. line to the mod from the carb, which didn't change anything. I have started adjusting the mod. counter-clockwise 1/2 turn at a time. I'm 3 1/2 turns out from where it was when I installed it. The shift points don't seem to be changing, it still shifts through the gears very quickly and still only slips going into 3rd at low speeds. I can still get firm shifts if I manually shift.
I began wondering if I have the vac. line hooked up in the wrong place on the carb. No, I don't have the vac. tree on the manifold. Here's a picture to help....
The red circle is the port that my distributor vac. line is connected to. The green is the vac. port I have connected to the tranny modulator. I ran out of time to simply try switching them, plus with my luck I'd blow something up doing that.
I don't know if this sheds any light on the problem. I'm just trying everything I can first before having to do a rebuild. That will be another can of worms for me.....
I have not picked up a psi gauge yet that reads 150. No time to yet. I did hook up my vac. gauge for giggles. It read 15 in. at idle if that means anything to any of you. I could not put it in drive and check it since my e-brake doesn't work. I did replace the vac. line to the mod from the carb, which didn't change anything. I have started adjusting the mod. counter-clockwise 1/2 turn at a time. I'm 3 1/2 turns out from where it was when I installed it. The shift points don't seem to be changing, it still shifts through the gears very quickly and still only slips going into 3rd at low speeds. I can still get firm shifts if I manually shift.
I began wondering if I have the vac. line hooked up in the wrong place on the carb. No, I don't have the vac. tree on the manifold. Here's a picture to help....
The red circle is the port that my distributor vac. line is connected to. The green is the vac. port I have connected to the tranny modulator. I ran out of time to simply try switching them, plus with my luck I'd blow something up doing that.
I don't know if this sheds any light on the problem. I'm just trying everything I can first before having to do a rebuild. That will be another can of worms for me.....
1968 F-100 Flareside
1999 F-150 XLT 4X4
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10023
and DON'T FORGET!!
1999 F-150 XLT 4X4
http://www.fordification.com/galleries/ ... ?cat=10023
and DON'T FORGET!!