strange carb set up. 1971 F100 AOD

[Ranchero50]

I really wish you would just create one thread with all your questions. It would simplify answers and help keep them focused on what you actually have.

Do you know what engine you have? Looks like a reman tag in the other thread on the back of the intake valley boss.

[BayStYAt]

I really wish you would just create one thread with all your questions. It would simplify answers and help keep them focused on what you actually have.

Do you know what engine you have? Looks like a reman tag in the other thread on the back of the intake valley boss.

Sorry for the issue. Please delete anything you think is an issue on the forum. I mean no disrespect to the forum.

The tag is Mercury serial ID number. Motor is a 302 with 351 heads and probably the wrong carburetor. The choke on the carburetor does not work. Never has. It takes a few minutes to warm up. Its not a daily driver so I don't mind it. The carb looks ruff and dirty. I come from the fuel injected mustang world. Carbs are new to me.

Has a Mallory Unilight distributor with out vacuum advance. I believe its done internally in the distributor.

Truck ran ok, but I am replacing the plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor, and now carb. All the carbs I see to buy are 2150s with electric choke. I would like to run a 2100 manual choke.

Oil pressure cold os 58, warm at idle is 45

No smoke while running

Oil gallery is spotless, top of heads are spotless. I can see some carbon on the backside of the valves.

Its a Motorcraft carb off of a 360-390 2 barrel I think. 1BAA 1.08 numbers on carb


sorry for any disruptions I may have caused.

[DuckRyder]

You haven’t done anything wrong, no need to apologize.

Sometimes it is better to have one thread if the problems might be intertwined, if they aren’t then separate threads are probably more appropriate.

It looks like the engine has tall valve covers, do you know if they have baffles in them? Give Us a few shots of the engine together with the PCV set up a few of it with the air cleaner off as well as a rundown of any other non stock parts.

As for the Carb, you can pick up a Holley 2300 (Example PART# 0-4412C) if you can’t find a good Autolite. sargentrs has posted about a carb builder he uses a couple of times, perhaps they can help.

[DuckRyder]

Oh, and a picture of that Tag...

That engine looks very clean and that tag (as jamie said) looks like a rebuilder tag. need to investigate what we are working with.

[sargentrs]

sargentrs has posted about a carb builder he uses a couple of times, perhaps they can help.

These guys. http://www.guaranteedcarburetors.com/ca ... eto/1.html Probably best to call them, tell them about your engine specs and let them make a recommendation. In your case, I wouldn't just pick one from the list since your truck isn't exactly listed and they have multiple variations. I've bought 3 from them and every one has been bolt on and go. Incredible warranty and no core charge. They also have a rebuild service. I've bought an Autolite 2100 for my truck, a 1 bbl Holley for a '74 Dodge Dart, and an Autolite 2100 for a '64 Fairlane. All 3 ran great.

[BayStYAt]

You haven’t done anything wrong, no need to apologize.

Sometimes it is better to have one thread if the problems might be intertwined, if they aren’t then separate threads are probably more appropriate.

It looks like the engine has tall valve covers, do you know if they have baffles in them? Give Us a few shots of the engine together with the PCV set up a few of it with the air cleaner off as well as a rundown of any other non stock parts.

As for the Carb, you can pick up a Holley 2300 (Example PART# 0-4412C) if you can’t find a good Autolite. sargentrs has posted about a carb builder he uses a couple of times, perhaps they can help.

Understood, I will keep things more organized.

Yes the valve covers have baffles.

The PVC valve was running off the large port from the rear of the carb.

IS the Holley 2300 a direct bolt on?

I have a Weiand intake 4 barrel with a reducer to accept a 2 barrel. What I find strange is the carb was dirty, but the inside of the intake and runners were absolutely spotless. Not even a light coat of clean oil.

If its a rebuild tag that would explain how clean the engine is. The oil is spotless, the top of the heads are spotless, the oil galley is spotless.

[BayStYAt]

sargentrs has posted about a carb builder he uses a couple of times, perhaps they can help.

These guys. http://www.guaranteedcarburetors.com/ca ... eto/1.html Probably best to call them, tell them about your engine specs and let them make a recommendation. In your case, I wouldn't just pick one from the list since your truck isn't exactly listed and they have multiple variations. I've bought 3 from them and every one has been bolt on and go. Incredible warranty and no core charge. They also have a rebuild service. I've bought an Autolite 2100 for my truck, a 1 bbl Holley for a '74 Dodge Dart, and an Autolite 2100 for a '64 Fairlane. All 3 ran great.

thank you sir.

[Ranchero50]

sorry for any disruptions I may have caused.

No real disruptions, it's just simpler to follow if you can keep a build in one thread.

What's wrong with your carb other than the choke? You should be able to get conversion kits, easily could decades ago. 1.08" should be 289/302 sized. I want to say 1.21 was for a 390.

Crazy you can pick up a brand new one for under $100 off Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/1977-AUTOLITE-CA ... B00D2GAWI4

[BayStYAt]

sorry for any disruptions I may have caused.

No real disruptions, it's just simpler to follow if you can keep a build in one thread.

What's wrong with your carb other than the choke? You should be able to get conversion kits, easily could decades ago. 1.08" should be 289/302 sized. I want to say 1.21 was for a 390.

Crazy you can pick up a brand new one for under $100 off Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/1977-AUTOLITE-CA ... B00D2GAWI4

Awesome thanks,

The carbs on Amazon look to be 2150s. I want to convert to a manual choke with the cable. Is it possible to remove all the extra choke parts and make it manual?

[Ranchero50]

Probably, but it might be simpler to leave it alone if it works.

[BobbyFord]

Why would anyone want a manual choke?

[cep62]

Why would anyone want a manual choke?

Because nobody will ask to borrow your truck .

[BayStYAt]

Probably, but it might be simpler to leave it alone if it works.

ok, so how does a electric choke work on a truck that never had an electric choke?

[BayStYAt]

Why would anyone want a manual choke?

Because nobody will ask to borrow your truck .

BINGO!

na I just like the old style with the cable pull

[Ranchero50]

Probably, but it might be simpler to leave it alone if it works.

ok, so how does a electric choke work on a truck that never had an electric choke?

Ideally you'd pull power off of the ignition switch. Most folks pull it off of the coil positive which has a load resistor in line. I try to keep my mechanical choke stove setups working. They use manifold heat to open the choke which is pretty clever until the tubing breaks.