71 F100 SWB 302 Auto Header Recommendation?

[Skkzhg]

Thinking about replacing stock manifolds with headers. I would like to be able to replace the starter without removing the header if the need arises. Any recommendations?

[Twisted_Steel]

Shorty headers from 1985-mid 90's Mustang GT should work. then you can route the lead pipe to give you the room you need.

[BayStYAt]

Thinking about replacing stock manifolds with headers. I would like to be able to replace the starter without removing the header if the need arises. Any recommendations?

me too, have you decided?

[Skkzhg]

Haven’t decided yet. Probably will be spring/summer before I do anything. Likely going with just a short tube and get my exhaust guy to route the pipe to give room to remove the starter.

[BayStYAt]

Haven’t decided yet. Probably will be spring/summer before I do anything. Likely going with just a short tube and get my exhaust guy to route the pipe to give room to remove the starter.

will shorties clear the frame?

[Twisted_Steel]

When I first got my 69, I switched the blown 240 I6 for a 302. I had no issues with header clearance. I even used the original radiator for the first couple of years til I finally dropped in the Mercury 429 (360hp/480 ft. lbs. of torque) with the C6.
There was room for the 429, a bit tight, but she slid right in there.
Hope that helps some.

[Skkzhg]

I had a 69 with a 390 and long tube headers. I had to unbolt the header from the head and the flange to get enough clearance to replace the starter. Hoping to avoid that with headers on the 302. The 302 might be narrow enough for some long tube headers to clear the frame and provide clearance to remove the starter. If it seems to be too "iffy" then I'll just replace the starter before I bolt on the headers and hope it lasts for my lifetime anyway... It's not going to be a daily driver. Just something to play around with and tinker on...

[BayStYAt]

When I first got my 69, I switched the blown 240 I6 for a 302. I had no issues with header clearance. I even used the original radiator for the first couple of years til I finally dropped in the Mercury 429 (360hp/480 ft. lbs. of torque) with the C6.
There was room for the 429, a bit tight, but she slid right in there.
Hope that helps some.

can you please give details on the headers you used?

[Twisted_Steel]

The stock shorty headers from the late 80's and early 90's 5.0 Mustangs I mentioned above.

[The Bandit]

The stock shorty headers from the late 80's and early 90's 5.0 Mustangs I mentioned above.

Or any after market shorty header for the same mustang as mentioned here.

On my 72 F100 I went with Hooker ceramic coated long tubes and only had a problem when we pulled the trans out to change the converter. had to remove the left header to get the trans by it and out. We had no issues with getting to the starter to remove it.

[BayStYAt]

The stock shorty headers from the late 80's and early 90's 5.0 Mustangs I mentioned above.

Or any after market shorty header for the same mustang as mentioned here.

On my 72 F100 I went with Hooker ceramic coated long tubes and only had a problem when we pulled the trans out to change the converter. had to remove the left header to get the trans by it and out. We had no issues with getting to the starter to remove it.

Are you saying I can run any aftermarket early 90a shorty headers ?

[The Bandit]

The stock shorty headers from the late 80's and early 90's 5.0 Mustangs I mentioned above.

Or any after market shorty header for the same mustang as mentioned here.

On my 72 F100 I went with Hooker ceramic coated long tubes and only had a problem when we pulled the trans out to change the converter. had to remove the left header to get the trans by it and out. We had no issues with getting to the starter to remove it.

Are you saying I can run any aftermarket early 90a shorty headers ?

I don't want to say any as i'm sure there is something out there that will prove me wrong. Late 80's early 90's mustang headers factory or after market should be really close if not spot on. I was planning on using some off of a 85 mustang as it had a heat riser adapter welded to it from the factory but just so happened to locate the full tube headers that's on it now and went with those.

Good luck!

[BayStYAt]

Or any after market shorty header for the same mustang as mentioned here.

On my 72 F100 I went with Hooker ceramic coated long tubes and only had a problem when we pulled the trans out to change the converter. had to remove the left header to get the trans by it and out. We had no issues with getting to the starter to remove it.

Are you saying I can run any aftermarket early 90a shorty headers ?

I don't want to say any as i'm sure there is something out there that will prove me wrong. Late 80's early 90's mustang headers factory or after market should be really close if not spot on. I was planning on using some off of a 85 mustang as it had a heat riser adapter welded to it from the factory but just so happened to locate the full tube headers that's on it now and went with those.

Good luck!

thanks Bandit.

[Skkzhg]

The stock shorty headers from the late 80's and early 90's 5.0 Mustangs I mentioned above.

Or any after market shorty header for the same mustang as mentioned here.

On my 72 F100 I went with Hooker ceramic coated long tubes and only had a problem when we pulled the trans out to change the converter. had to remove the left header to get the trans by it and out. We had no issues with getting to the starter to remove it.

Do you have a part number for the hooker headers you used? Thanks!

[Ranchero50]

I wouldn't run Hookers on anything beyond a race vehicle as they are built very lightweight.

Look at the tube diameter, pipe thickness as well as the flange thickness. Find some heavy wall 14 gauge 1-5/8" primary pipe with a 3/8" port flange thickness. Pick up a box of 3/8" Nordlock washers or ARP studs.