FE Build Recommendations

[colnago]

Okay, from all of my various questions, I'm looking at the following engine mods, and asking for guidance/positives/negatives:

- 352 FE, with static compression of 8.5:1
- Crane Cams 343901 (towing, mileage, 8.5:1 compression ratio)
- Sanderson FF427 mid-length headers, 2-1/2" dual exhaust, both exiting on passenger side (maybe 2-in-1-out muffler, out = 3")
- Stock Ford iron 4BBL intake (maybe Edelbrock Performer 390)
- Edelbrock 1405 600 CFM carb
- Performance Distributors Duraspark distributor (they suggest a plug gap of 0.050")
- 4.10 rear gearing, 2WD
- C6 auto transmission

What am I forgetting? Good, bad, ugly? This is a daily driver, not racing or tractor pulling.

Joseph

[DuckRyder]

I don’t see any huge holes in that.

Are you willing to change the valve springs? Do you know if the lift over 500 is useable with your heads?

For your stated use, I’m not positive I don’t like your original idea of the performer cam better.

[Jacksdad]

Lunati has a Voodoo cam that starts pulling at 800 rpm through to 5000 rpm. It'll give you more usable torque low down.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1672&gid=287

[8ton]

I think that is a strong plan, but don't forget the details.
Balance the rotating assembly, have arp rod bolts installed. Try to get it done with the balancer and flexplate.
Grind casting flash out of the block, especially around oil drain backs.
Drill the oil galleys- pump to filter and filter to cam. iirc they can safely be drilled 7/16". Blend the and match the openings and passages of the filter adaptor. There are several FE specific tutorials on doing this, it is very DIYable.
Look at oil pump options: Some will say Stock, some high volume, and others high pressure.
Ford used a hp pump (60psi vs 40psi) on the CJ and police interceptors for better sustained rpm protection. If you go hv, make sure you also use an improved oil pump drive shaft.

Make sure your quench is around .040. Your block may need to be decked to achieve this. Also you will need to know what head gasket you want to run. SCE makes a steel shim that is .021, the typical felpros are .035-.041 I think.
This may up your compression, but I feel you would be better suited with 9 or 9.5-1 anyways. Tight quench helps prevent detonation, so it should still allow you to run regular.

What heads are you planning on running? In the late '60s ford switched to a smaller, medium riser style intake port for better velocity. C8ae-h and later heads can be found cheap, your '67 heads may also be the same.
Check and adjust the port alignment on the intake to head, and head to exhaust.

Check installed height on your valve springs, and make sure the will work with whichever cam you chose. Also look at getting some rocker stands with the end support. They are recommended as cam lift exceeds .500

Good luck!!

[6Delta]

Don't forget a good double roller timing chain and check your harmonic balancer to make sure it is in good shape. You don't have to get crazy with a real expensive one but if the one you plan on using is old you really should replace it with a new one. If you can it would be nice to degree your cam when installing it but if not just take your time putting it together. It would also suggest you take apart any oil pump you do get and "blueprint" it. (A quick internet search will show you how to do it and it isn't hard. It will make sure you get the oil flow you want.)

You will also want to research how to check your push rods to make sure they are the right length if you do deck the block or shave the heads. Especially with a different lift camshaft. In the old days I would have suggested adjustable rockers but now they seem a bit pricey. Although I do still like them for the FE's. Sounds like you have a plan so good luck and have fun.

[tsherry]

With 4:10's I'd look at an overdrive unit for freeway use...but that's just me.

[colnago]

Wow, a ton of good info! I'm surprised with the cam choices; on paper, they are very different in lift and advertised duration.

My current heads are C8AE-H. I was going to have some earlier heads rebuilt (that were previously ported), but my machinist said that I probably wouldn't see much from the porting work already done. So, for the time being, I'll keep the C8 heads. My big decision is to keep my current 352 block at 0.030 over, or rebuild a second block at 0.060 over (total 4.110) for a 390. It's a lot easier (and cheaper) to keep the 352.

Decisions, decisions ...

Joseph

On edit, the rest of the engine, and the use for the engine, would remain the same. Whether a 352 or a 390, it will still be my daily driver.

[colnago]

Just an update (and question) on the cam choices. I keep looking at the numbers, and it's down to the Edelbrock 2106 or the Crane 343901. Here are some numbers:

Lift (intake/exhaust):

Eddy: .460/.480
Crane: .501/.533

Duration at 0.050":

Eddy: 204/214
Crane: 204/216

Advertised duration:

Eddy: 282/292
Crane: 260/272

I hear that the Eddy is closer to stock. It has a wider RPM range (due to wider duration?). I've heard more positive notes on the Crane. I've also heard that you want a "peakier" lobe for lower-end grunt, which definitely points to the Crane. I'll probably never go over 4K RPM. If I go with the Crane, I'll get their valve springs as well; with the Eddy, I'll probably keep the stockers.

Advise? What about the Lunati? Sorry, I don't have the numbers with me.

Joseph

On edit, my current static compression ratio is around 8.7:1. I estimate that my Fel-Pro head gasket is 0.040", and the deck clearance is 0.032", giving me a quench of 0.072". The crane is advertised for CR of 8.0 to 9.5; the Eddy didn't list anything. Should I deck the block, or get a thinner metal head gasket (which will lower the quench, but raise the CR)?

I looked a bit at using a high-volume oil pump, but I'm not sure if I would see a benefit to using one.

On the rear gears, I'm thinking of switching to 3.56 gears, but I'm kind of used to the high-pitched whining.

On edit again, how do I determine the proper pushrod length?