How to wire my 302

[luke-ao]

So I've had this fresh rebuilt 302 sitting in my 68 F100 for a few years now that has never been fired up. I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild of the truck and the cab is completely stripped, literally everything from the dash board, wiring, seat doors, glass, just a shell. I want to start the engine and make sure I didn't screw up the rebuild, then if it's good to go, I'll pull in and drop it in my 71.

All the wiring is still in place under the hood, battery, starter, ect. My question is, can I just run a hot wire from the battery (+) to the (+) side of the coil and jump the starter relay terminals to crank the starter to fire the engine?

(The 71 is my only transportation so I want to make sure the new 302 is ready to go before the swap.)

[luke-ao]

I have an oil pressure gauge installed. I plan to just run a gas line from the pump into a (closed) gas can. I'll wire the fan direct. Exhaust is all new back to the tail gate. Starter is wired, not worried about the alternator. I'll spin the oil pump with a drill and extension before the first crank. I think all I need is a power wire to the coil and I think I should be good to go(?)

[cep62]

can I just run a hot wire from the battery (+) to the (+) side of the coil and jump the starter relay terminals to crank the starter to fire the engine?

With a points distributor you can.
for extended running a resistor is a good idea.
use an alligator clip because you'll need to shut it off by pulling the wire.

[luke-ao]

Yes, it is currently setup with points.

My plan was to run it long enough to break in the cam and make sure I didn't have any over heating issues. Can you explain the resister and how to apply it?

[cep62]

Also it will start in gear so beware.

The first time start up with a flat tappet cam requires around 2000 rpm for twenty minutes to break in the cam.
and they recommend a high zinc ?? oil, like is designed for diesels.

Other peoples opinions may vary.

[cep62]

Just a universal ballast resistor wired in before the coil.
the factory wiring should have one all ready (pink wire under the dash, that is known to fail )
Is there a reason you're not using the stock setup.?

[luke-ao]

I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild of the truck and the cab is completely stripped, literally everything from the dash board, wiring, seat doors, glass, just a shell.

[luke-ao]

universal ballast resistor

I can wire it but I'm not really an electronics guy, can you link me to what I need?

[cep62]

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd ... *-49999856

try something like this.
These are universal

[8ton]

I would use the resistor for break in, as 20-30 minutes is plenty of time for things to get hot.

Personally, I would be really mindful of starting and breaking in an engine that had sat 2-3 years. Is there oil already in the pan? If so what type? I would consider using one of the high $$ break in oil. I would pull the valve covers, drill prime, and turn engine over by hand, maybe while priming to assure nothing is stuck, and to make sure nothing is dry.
Research break in, I recall holding around 2000, pulsing it by 500 rpm for 20 minutes.
Good luck!!

[1972hiboy]

I would use the resistor for break in, as 20-30 minutes is plenty of time for things to get hot.

Personally, I would be really mindful of starting and breaking in an engine that had sat 2-3 years. Is there oil already in the pan? If so what type? I would consider using one of the high $$ break in oil. I would pull the valve covers, drill prime, and turn engine over by hand, maybe while priming to assure nothing is stuck, and to make sure nothing is dry.
Research break in, I recall holding around 2000, pulsing it by 500 rpm for 20 minutes.
Good luck!!

this is a very good point. fresh engine should be broke in relatively soon after assembled. also, an internally resisted coil can be used that way you can hook up full 12v to it and it wont fry anything.

[jf100]

I do not have a tach so how can I tell what my rpm is?

jf100

[sargentrs]

Just buy a cheap dwell tach. Accurate enough up to 2500 rpm. A little more money and you can go higher. https://www.google.com/search?q=dwell+t ... =564&dpr=3

[71f2504x4]

I have a 71 f250 highboy... wiring from a 72 f100 2wd I think...burning up condensors w points....many reference a pink wire ign to coil but I think mine is brown...is that possible?

3.5 -4 ohms on brown wire
12v to coil 12v to dist cap in run
9.8v to coil while running
12v to coil 6.5 to dist cap after warm in run and coil hot to touch

Is my brown wire failing or coil (new btw)?
Should I slice a new brown leaving 2" of old on either side?
Or should I get new coil w ext res or coil internally res?

Not sure what the proper ohms for a resistor wire would be

Thank you! (Daily driver w work to do)

[sargentrs]

The resistor wire starts out pink at the ignition switch but changes colors further along the harness. Brown comes from the solenoid and joins with the resistor wire and from there should be red/green to the coil. Sounds like you need a new coil. Just get whatever is spec'd for OEM which I believe is externally resisted, hence the resistor wire. I'd go with Standard Motor Products brand.