Ignition coil voltage with electronic ignition.
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Ignition coil voltage with electronic ignition.
I'm new to this forum, so I figured I'd ask for some input. I just bought a '73 F-250 Camper Special with a 360 in her. She's also got an old Hays electronic ignition mounted on the inner fender, with (what appears to be) the factory yellow top coil. Neither the points nor the condenser came with the truck when I bought her. Anyway, would there be any reason the ballast resistor would've been bypassed for an electronic ignition installation? With the engine running, I'm getting 13.5v at the +terminal of the coil. It does seem to get quite hot once the engine is up to temp, but that could just be radiant heat since it's mounted directly above the head. For a factory points style ignition, there'd be a resistor, but I'm wondering if an electronic ignition doesn't require one (hence the reason I'm getting 13.5v with the engine running). Part of me thinks the coil would've been fried by now if something was amiss (she runs pretty good, minus the occasional hot start issues), but any input would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
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Re: Ignition coil voltage with electronic ignition.
First, welcome to the group.
Second, I just posted some questions about my Duraspark system. I checked the voltage last night. With the engine running, I'm getting a little over 9V to the coil. I don't think my coil can handle 12+V, but some high-power coils can (I think, but I'm also waiting for feedback from the group). From what I've read on the net, you also don't want to use a ballast resistor if your system isn't designed for it.
I read one suggestion that you pre-heat your [censored] oven to 220 degrees. Put your coil in for ~20 minutes, then run it out to your truck, hook it up, and start the engine. If your engine runs, then you're probably okay, but if it doesn't run, then I am not buying a replacement!
Sorry to be so wishy-washy. The more I learn about the ignition system, the more I learn that I have a lot more to learn!
Joseph
Second, I just posted some questions about my Duraspark system. I checked the voltage last night. With the engine running, I'm getting a little over 9V to the coil. I don't think my coil can handle 12+V, but some high-power coils can (I think, but I'm also waiting for feedback from the group). From what I've read on the net, you also don't want to use a ballast resistor if your system isn't designed for it.
I read one suggestion that you pre-heat your [censored] oven to 220 degrees. Put your coil in for ~20 minutes, then run it out to your truck, hook it up, and start the engine. If your engine runs, then you're probably okay, but if it doesn't run, then I am not buying a replacement!
Sorry to be so wishy-washy. The more I learn about the ignition system, the more I learn that I have a lot more to learn!
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
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Re: Ignition coil voltage with electronic ignition.
Well, I think it's safe to say that my truck has no resistor/resistor wire installed due to the fact that I'm getting 12+v at the coil with the engine running, and I'm unable to find a pink resistor wire anywhere behind the dash. One of the previous owners installed a cheap aftermarket stereo (which I have since removed) and all the wiring was an absolute mess. Maybe that has something to do with it... who knows. Anyway, considering the coil currently in the truck is meant to be used with an external resistor/resistor wire, I've got some changes to do perhaps. I wish I knew more about the history of my truck, but the lady I bought it from didn't know too much about it herself (it was her husband's, but he passed away and that's why she was selling it).
- sargentrs
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Re: Ignition coil voltage with electronic ignition.
From what I've been reading the Hays ignition system was pretty hot back in the day. I'd leave it alone and just put a hotter coil capable of handling the 12v source and call it done.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: Ignition coil voltage with electronic ignition.
That's kind of the direction I'm leaning. I appreciate the input!From what I've been reading the Hays ignition system was pretty hot back in the day. I'd leave it alone and just put a hotter coil capable of handling the 12v source and call it done.