Newb with questions

[shughes]

Ok first post here and have a few questions. I have 1972 sport custom f100 with 360 in it. Ive driven it for a year with no issues and then finally something went wrong causing the engine to over heat and spray coolant everywhere. I got it towed to the house and started taking things apart to figure out the issue, there was white goop in the valve covers and the coolant levels were constantly low. I replaced the water pump and the block seemed bone dry of coolant. After replacing the water pump and leaving out the thermostat the truck just constantly blew out large amounts of white/ coolant smelling smoke and still ran hot. So now im at a decision point, do i pull the motor replace the head gaskets and maybe upgrade the heads, do some top end upgrades including electric ignition, new plugs wires? its my daily driver but i would like to do a first rebuild. My thoughts are do what i need to get it back on the road and then find another 360/390 block and take my time rebuilding that i how i would like. Thoughts and suggestions?
*Current parts
FE 360, Holley 750 4 barrell, Edelbrock streetmaster 390 intake, points distributor, everything else is stock including cam, crank, ETC.

Thanks, Spencer Hughes South Carolina

[colnago]

First,

Second, I think a Holley 750 is way too big.

Third, I agree with replacing the head gaskets to keep her on the road, then find another block to rebuild. That's what I did (mine is also my daily driver).

Joseph

[RottenAppleRed]

Second on the 750 Holley being too big...650 is as big as it should be, even with an aftermarket mild cam.

The 1st thing that needs to take place, is a mild tear down of the engine. You are getting coolant into the combustion chambers, causing the white smoke and oil milkshake. Start by removing the spark plugs to find out which one (or several) is getting fouled with coolant. This will help steer you in the direction for diagnosis. Let's just say, you are getting coolant in #6 and #7. The culprit is likely a blown head gasket between those cylinders. If you are only getting coolant in a single cylinder, it could still be a blown gasket, but could also be a crack in the combustion chamber or cylinder wall of the block. If you find it to be confined to one of the corner cylinders, a leaky intake gasket could be the reason...that's where the water ports to the intake are on the heads.

Once you have located the cylinder or cylinders that are affected, you can proceed with the tear down. When you remove the intake, check around the corner ports and water ports for leakage between gaskets. When reinstalling, I strongly suggest FelPro Printoseal intake gaskets. Moving on to the heads...always check the gaskets for signs of leakage between the cylinders, as well as between water ports and cylinders. If you plan to clean the surfaces, use a razor blade or scraper to get the majority of the gasket material off, then a flat block with 120, 100 or 80 grit paper to remove the rest. NEVER USE A ROTORY ABRASIVE ON THE DECK OR INTAKE SURFACES...you will do damage. This is when you take them to the machine shop to check for warpage and cracks. If you plan on changing the heads to aftermarket, you don't have to have them checked...unless you didn't find the source of coolant entering the cylinder(s). You want to find the source before getting your install parts. If it is found to be a cracked block, the game completely changes.

You may get differing opinions, but I would definitely change the points distributer to a duaraspark (factory Ford electronic ignition) unit. From there you can use factory ignition boxes or convert to an MSD style ignition. There is a giant rabbit hole that you can go down, when building an engine, but the start should always be a troubleshoot.

[Jacksdad]

It could be a crack that's causing the coolant and oil to mix, but the odds are it's probably a head gasket. You already have an engine so I'd tear this one down and get it running again. That way you can track down a 390 and build it the way you want it without a disabled truck making the place look untidy. It might not be a bad idea to get the heads checked and possibly resurfaced while they're off too. Depending on how badly it overheated, they could be warped. Worse case scenario is a cracked head, and they're easy to replace.

What kind of Holley do you have - manual or vacuum secondary? 750 cfm is more than a stock 360 needs, but if it's a vacuum secondary it'll be a little more forgiving.

Electronic ignition is definitely a worthwhile upgrade. I did a Pertronix conversion years ago and it's worked flawlessly since. I know some people don't like them, but I've had zero issues with mine.

Good luck - let us know how you're doing

[shughes]

Second on the 750 Holley being too big...650 is as big as it should be, even with an aftermarket mild cam.

The 1st thing that needs to take place, is a mild tear down of the engine. You are getting coolant into the combustion chambers, causing the white smoke and oil milkshake. Start by removing the spark plugs to find out which one (or several) is getting fouled with coolant. This will help steer you in the direction for diagnosis. Let's just say, you are getting coolant in #6 and #7. The culprit is likely a blown head gasket between those cylinders. If you are only getting coolant in a single cylinder, it could still be a blown gasket, but could also be a crack in the combustion chamber or cylinder wall of the block. If you find it to be confined to one of the corner cylinders, a leaky intake gasket could be the reason...that's where the water ports to the intake are on the heads.

Once you have located the cylinder or cylinders that are affected, you can proceed with the tear down. When you remove the intake, check around the corner ports and water ports for leakage between gaskets. When reinstalling, I strongly suggest FelPro Printoseal intake gaskets. Moving on to the heads...always check the gaskets for signs of leakage between the cylinders, as well as between water ports and cylinders. If you plan to clean the surfaces, use a razor blade or scraper to get the majority of the gasket material off, then a flat block with 120, 100 or 80 grit paper to remove the rest. NEVER USE A ROTORY ABRASIVE ON THE DECK OR INTAKE SURFACES...you will do damage. This is when you take them to the machine shop to check for warpage and cracks. If you plan on changing the heads to aftermarket, you don't have to have them checked...unless you didn't find the source of coolant entering the cylinder(s). You want to find the source before getting your install parts. If it is found to be a cracked block, the game completely changes.

You may get differing opinions, but I would definitely change the points distributer to a duaraspark (factory Ford electronic ignition) unit. From there you can use factory ignition boxes or convert to an MSD style ignition. There is a giant rabbit hole that you can go down, when building an engine, but the start should always be a troubleshoot.

thanks for all the info... i definatley think getting back on the road is the better option and then finding a another motor/390 to rebuild slowly and more thought out. As for the 750 holley that is what the truck came with when i bought it and ive been told by other guys its to much. Would going down to 600cfm be a better choice? I have a set of fel-pro head gaskets now that will be going when i pull the motor.

[shughes]

It could be a crack that's causing the coolant and oil to mix, but the odds are it's probably a head gasket. You already have an engine so I'd tear this one down and get it running again. That way you can track down a 390 and build it the way you want it without a disabled truck making the place look untidy. It might not be a bad idea to get the heads checked and possibly resurfaced while they're off too. Depending on how badly it overheated, they could be warped. Worse case scenario is a cracked head, and they're easy to replace.

What kind of Holley do you have - manual or vacuum secondary? 750 cfm is more than a stock 360 needs, but if it's a vacuum secondary it'll be a little more forgiving.

Electronic ignition is definitely a worthwhile upgrade. I did a Pertronix conversion years ago and it's worked flawlessly since. I know some people don't like them, but I've had zero issues with mine.

Good luck - let us know how you're doing

its vacuum secondary....yes im going to upgrade the distributor and then get the gaskets replaced and clean it up. Then look for another motor is what i feel the best plan is. Ill try and post some pictures and give you guys some updates. Thanks for all the help, very much appreciated.

[colnago]

As for the 750 holley that is what the truck came with when i bought it and ive been told by other guys its to much. Would going down to 600cfm be a better choice?

From what I hear, it comes down to how you're going to use it. A 600CFM carb is readily available, and relatively inexpensive. The (very basic) formula I found was:

Displacement x RPM / 3456 = Optimal-ish CFM

Yes, you'll find variations, and better explanations. If you're going to spend weekends at the strip, you might rev it up to 6000+, and need that 750CFM; if it's a daily driver, you'll probably not see 3,000RPM. For me:

360 x 3500 / 3456 = 365

Holley makes a 390CFM carb, but I don't want to spend $500, so I'm playing around with adapters to bring my 600CFM Edelbrock down to 500CFM. I've heard that you can jet it down some; I've also heard that your low RPM will suffer if you go too big. Again, it's like everything else: it depends. If you're like me, you'll end up with a reliable truck, and get to start playing/tweaking. As long as it gets me to work on Monday morning, I can do anything on the weekend. And as long as I don't spend too much time/money, the boss doesn't grumble.

Joseph

[RottenAppleRed]

Second on the 750 Holley being too big...650 is as big as it should be, even with an aftermarket mild cam.

The 1st thing that needs to take place, is a mild tear down of the engine. You are getting coolant into the combustion chambers, causing the white smoke and oil milkshake. Start by removing the spark plugs to find out which one (or several) is getting fouled with coolant. This will help steer you in the direction for diagnosis. Let's just say, you are getting coolant in #6 and #7. The culprit is likely a blown head gasket between those cylinders. If you are only getting coolant in a single cylinder, it could still be a blown gasket, but could also be a crack in the combustion chamber or cylinder wall of the block. If you find it to be confined to one of the corner cylinders, a leaky intake gasket could be the reason...that's where the water ports to the intake are on the heads.

Once you have located the cylinder or cylinders that are affected, you can proceed with the tear down. When you remove the intake, check around the corner ports and water ports for leakage between gaskets. When reinstalling, I strongly suggest FelPro Printoseal intake gaskets. Moving on to the heads...always check the gaskets for signs of leakage between the cylinders, as well as between water ports and cylinders. If you plan to clean the surfaces, use a razor blade or scraper to get the majority of the gasket material off, then a flat block with 120, 100 or 80 grit paper to remove the rest. NEVER USE A ROTORY ABRASIVE ON THE DECK OR INTAKE SURFACES...you will do damage. This is when you take them to the machine shop to check for warpage and cracks. If you plan on changing the heads to aftermarket, you don't have to have them checked...unless you didn't find the source of coolant entering the cylinder(s). You want to find the source before getting your install parts. If it is found to be a cracked block, the game completely changes.

You may get differing opinions, but I would definitely change the points distributer to a duaraspark (factory Ford electronic ignition) unit. From there you can use factory ignition boxes or convert to an MSD style ignition. There is a giant rabbit hole that you can go down, when building an engine, but the start should always be a troubleshoot.

thanks for all the info... i definatley think getting back on the road is the better option and then finding a another motor/390 to rebuild slowly and more thought out. As for the 750 holley that is what the truck came with when i bought it and ive been told by other guys its to much. Would going down to 600cfm be a better choice? I have a set of fel-pro head gaskets now that will be going when i pull the motor.

Glad I could help. As far as the Holley 750...if it don't leak, carbon or gas foul your plugs or bog when you stomp the throttle, then run it. It can be jetted down for economy and to just run altogether better. If you aren't constantly in the 4 barrel, you really aren't using much of that 750 anyway. Just because you have too much carb potential, doesn't mean you have to scrap the whole thing. To qualify and possibly get raked over the coals, I am no fan of the Holley brand. I actually have one linked to a chain that I use as a wheel chock. I know lots of guys love 'em and that's fine, but I think a that the best all around street and mild performance carb is the AFB design that Carter and Edelbrock use. They are so easy to tune and all gaskets are above the fuel line, making leakage a non-issue. One thing I can stress more than all else...the fuel filter is absolute key to the performance of an AFB. NEVER run a Spectra or Russell style glass in line filter with a mesh element. They will let a gravel driveway through them...clogging up the works of the carb with fuel tank sediment. This goes double with the AFB, as the jets are on the floor of the bowls.

[Jacksdad]

I agree - being a vacuum secondary, the 750 will be fine for now. If it's properly set up, it'll only open the secondaries as much as the engine needs. 600-650 cfm would be a better match for your engine, but the carb you have will work until you get something else.
Granted it was a spreadbore with itty bitty primaries, but I had a 318 in a '67 Charger that ran great with a vacuum secondary 800 cfm Thermoquad. Never bogged when I stomped on it and got better gas mileage than the 2bbl it replaced.

[shughes]

Thanks for carb info guys. Definatley will get a lower CFM soon. How does everyone feel about edlebrocks top end kits including cam, lifters, heads, intake, all bolts needed? I believe its the RPM series kits. Seems like a good upgrade for a decent price and takes the guess work out with a bolt on and go application?

[RottenAppleRed]

Thanks for carb info guys. Definatley will get a lower CFM soon. How does everyone feel about edlebrocks top end kits including cam, lifters, heads, intake, all bolts needed? I believe its the RPM series kits. Seems like a good upgrade for a decent price and takes the guess work out with a bolt on and go application?

Edelbrock is a great manufacturer that takes the thought process out of mild engine upgrades. If you aren't steeped in engine building, you may want to go this route. It may be a big chunk all at once, but the kit components work together.