Carb issues and an OILY mess

[Daddy Longbed]

Hey hey hey yall
I have a 67 F250 Long bed step side.
I purchased this rare find with ( of course) some issues. Setup is a 75 300 L6 block with 4 speed on the floor, all stock it seems. Looks like new plug wires,Cap, and mechanical fuel pump were recently put on.
First off, I have spent HOURS degreasing and scraping off oil- gunk from both sides of the block, steering components, frame, tranny you name it.
I was able when purchased to drive her home with some minimal problems but noticed hesitation when it got to around 35 mph and then would smooth out as it got above 40 mph so since then have not drove her but decided to start rebuilding the carburetor which is an Autolite 1100 (C814) manual choke.
Since i rebuilt it I cant get it to run. It will start but backfires and then dies. I am sure some adjusting is needed but i figured my cleaning would improve the carb, not stall it out.
After all, it did drive home in the first place initially.
I should also mention This was my 1st carb rebuild/ deep clean job i have ever done but i was sure to not mess with float gap, needles etc to make much difference in the "original" set up. Plus the fact that the original oil bath air cleaner is still on it makes me really curious as to where all of the built up gunk that i have been cleaning off is coming from. My guess would be most likely everywhere.
Anyone with some good advise?
Im looking at going possibly with a Weber 32/36 and would greatly appreciate any knowledge with that set up also.
I am all ears......thanks for letting me rant

[colnago]

First,

Second, the following is my opinion only, but hopefully it will give you places to start. Most people will tell you to get your timing right first, then work on the carb. I've found that they have to kind of be done together. Do you have a timing light, tach, and vacuum gauge? If not, they're indispensable for tuning the old girl. Your local AutoZone might have a loan-a-tool program. I'm planning on picking up a (second) vacuum gauge from the local Harbor Freight this weekend ($13, plus a 20% off coupon, which brings it down under $11).

Okay, assuming you have all of this, hook the timing light to the #1 spark plug. As a staring point, set your initial timing to 10 degrees BTDC. If you're adventurous, slowly adjust the distributor back and forth to give you maximum vacuum, but keep it between 6 and 12 degrees BTDC. Go for a drive. Find a hill, and give it some throttle. If it pings, back the timing off by two degrees.

Now it's carb time. I'm not familiar with the Autolite, but all carbs should have similar adjustments. Adjust the idle screw to give you an idle of 600 RPM. The other screw(s) should be for adjusting the idle metering. Start with gently screwing them in all the way, then back them out 1-1/2 full turns. With the engine running, and the vacuum gauge hooked up, slowly turn in one screw to max the vacuum. If there are two mixture screws, turn the other in/out to match. If the idle changes, adjust the idle screw to get back to 600 RPM. Go back and forth to get a smooth idle.

Take it out for a drive. If it still has a stumble, then adjust the linkage to the accelerator pump. There should be three holes, and it should be on the center hole, so try the other two.

This should get you started. I have more pointers, but my computer keyboard is acting up. Keep us posted.

Joseph

[Daddy Longbed]

Thanks for the timely response.
its greatly appreciated, and the advise also.
will get to checking the timing and pressure this weekend .
will keep you posted , thanks again.