Noobie here posting a very noobie question. Already searched the forums in case there was a repeat question. Current 67 F250 has a PCV valve running into back of carb on passenger valve cover while the drivers side has a breather oil filler cap. Im assuming due to excessive blow by I am getting oil spitting/misting out of the oil filler cap and am trying to prevent this. I know it most likely will mean a rebuild but I am trying to problem solve until then.
The truck had a road draft tube and pcv valve when I got it, didnt think you were supposed to have both thus why I took it off. Should I put it back on by getting a closed filler cap with a nipple and run heater hose off that? I have also seen people do the same but run the hose into the air cleaner which I assume wouldnt be good because it could spit oil in the intake. Again, noob here looking for help! Thanks!
Noobie here posting a very noobie question. Already searched the forums in case there was a repeat question. Current 67 F250 has a PCV valve running into back of carb on passenger valve cover while the drivers side has a breather oil filler cap. Im assuming due to excessive blow by I am getting oil spitting/misting out of the oil filler cap and am trying to prevent this. I know it most likely will mean a rebuild but I am trying to problem solve until then.
The truck had a road draft tube and pcv valve when I got it, didnt think you were supposed to have both thus why I took it off. Should I put it back on by getting a closed filler cap with a nipple and run heater hose off that? I have also seen people do the same but run the hose into the air cleaner which I assume wouldnt be good because it could spit oil in the intake. Again, noob here looking for help! Thanks!
Here is picture of current setup.
With the excessive blow by you describe it will be a win/lose solution from my experience. If it were mine, (as I've done before) I would run the vented oil cap to the air cleaner via a hose. It'll create another problem in itself that you'll be wiping out the air cleaner's excess oil being captured every week-but you've gotten the additional PCV on the engine adding to it's life ultimately by eliminating the positive crankcase pressure from blowing out gaskets and more harm. Professional race engine employ an additional vacuum motor, (but i wouldn't go that far) and my 454 / 375 HP air boat engine I even employed exhaust scavenged PCV with check valves that insured the job of PCV was done properly.
Get that rebuild planned soon!
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
I would just ignore it until you can afford to fix it after getting the correct '68-72 style air cleaner and oil fill or getting an earlier oil bath one which would be happy to absorb the blown by oil.
tnlprt wrote:Please replace that rubber gas line before it splits and you lose your truck
How embarrassing. I've been running with a rubber line for 6+ years. I keep meaning to bend a steel fuel line, but there's always something else to deal with. The only time I had a fire was when I forgot to reconnect the (rubber) fuel line back to the carb. Cranking the engine over kept dumping gas into the valley. Everything was fine until it backfired through the carb! Kind of disappointing that it didn't blow up, like in the movies!
To the original poster, I don't have any kind of drip line. The PCV runs to the carb base, and the oil filter is not connected to anything. This is on a 352 with an Edelbrock 4BBL carb. PCV to the carb front, brake booster to the carb rear. If I ran without the PCV, I got condensation build-up in the oil. I have no "extra" heater hoses running anywhere.
Oh, and
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
Based off replies I believe I'm going to try a few things and see what works best. First probably starting with running a hose from a different filler cap to the air cleaner and if the oil amount is too great I was thinking of running that hose to some sort of DIY oil catch can (yes I know that probably makes a few people cringe). The ultimate goal is just to eliminate the oil on the engine block until a rebuild. Will be sure to replace that fuel line as well!
Don't know if this will help or not but this is the stock setup on mine - should be similar even though I'm running the original oil bath air cleaner........it's running the rear hose to the manifold and the front to the air cleaner......
IMG_20180214_121549_hdr_kindlephoto-3179379.jpg
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"Life is a garden - dig it"...........
1968 F100 2wd - Rangoon Red - 360 w/T18 - power steering and brakes
1997 Honda CBR 900RR
I've been running with a rubber line for 6+ years. I keep meaning to bend a steel fuel line, but there's always something else to deal with. The only time I had a fire was when I forgot to reconnect the (rubber) fuel line back to the carb. Cranking the engine over kept dumping gas into the valley. Everything was fine until it backfired through the carb! 
Kind of disappointing that it didn't blow up, like in the movies!
