I think the photo says it all. The good ends were connected to the slip joint on my C6, the munched ends were connected to the connecting shaft. Good thing I needed to get a new connecting shaft anyway!
Joseph
So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"
Moderators: FORDification, 70_F100
- colnago
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 1882
- Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:48 pm
- Location: Ridgecrest, CA
So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
- Jacksdad
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 579
- Joined: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:52 pm
- Location: San Diego, CA
Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"
Okay, I thought my UJs were bad when I found I'd lost the needle bearings in one, but you have me beat by a mile. And them some.
Yes, you definitely found the source of at least one clunk. But it's a bump. There's always going to be another somewhere
Yes, you definitely found the source of at least one clunk. But it's a bump. There's always going to be another somewhere
1971 DRW F350 cab and chassis with an Open Road motorhome conversion, Dana 70, 352 (originally 390)/C6, PS, power front discs, and 159" w/b.
- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 9866
- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:30 am
- Location: Georgia, Jasper
Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"
Ouch! Close call on that one.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- Mancar1
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 5390
- Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2010 8:13 am
- Location: USS Gramps Garage (DD-727) Tehama County, Northern Ca.
Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"
Ok the photo pushed me to action.
Been going to replace the u joints in the 68 CS for a while now. Think I will getter done.
Thanks Joseph, and Keep on Trucking...........John.
Been going to replace the u joints in the 68 CS for a while now. Think I will getter done.
Thanks Joseph, and Keep on Trucking...........John.
May your sails stay full, and your knots not slip. Unless a slip knot.
Once I thought I was wrong, but I was wrong.
Life is a banquet, and every days a feast.
68 F-250 CS 390 C-6 P/S A/C front disc. 2nd owner.
2016 GMC Terrain Denali 301 HP V-6 AWD.
2009 Silverado Crew Cab, V-8, 4X4.
DD-727
DD-806
AE-35
LSD-39
AS-41
AR-8
Once I thought I was wrong, but I was wrong.
Life is a banquet, and every days a feast.
68 F-250 CS 390 C-6 P/S A/C front disc. 2nd owner.
2016 GMC Terrain Denali 301 HP V-6 AWD.
2009 Silverado Crew Cab, V-8, 4X4.
DD-727
DD-806
AE-35
LSD-39
AS-41
AR-8
-
- New Member
- Posts: 215
- Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 10:04 am
- Location: Lacey, Washington
Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"
Hi,
By chance are the failed ends,... the ends that are secured with the U-bolts?
Reason I ask is because I have had a similar failure with fairly new U-joints. The reason was I was over tightening the U-bolts, crushing the needle bearing caps.
Take care,
Lee
By chance are the failed ends,... the ends that are secured with the U-bolts?
Reason I ask is because I have had a similar failure with fairly new U-joints. The reason was I was over tightening the U-bolts, crushing the needle bearing caps.
Take care,
Lee
- colnago
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 1882
- Joined: Tue Jun 14, 2011 8:48 pm
- Location: Ridgecrest, CA
Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"
In my case, I had a slip yoke coming out from the C6 transmission, and it didn’t use U-bolts. Neither did the coupling shaft. The C6 had a long tailshaft, and the coupling shaft was only 2" in diameter, so I'm wondering if the whole thing came out of a car. Also, the U-joint is the smaller 1310, not the 1330 that should be in a 3/4-ton truck. I figure that I probably had less than a month before it completely dissolved on me.Lee wrote:By chance are the failed ends,... the ends that are secured with the U-bolts?
Good to know about overtightening the U-bolts. I'm putting in a different C6, and it does use the U-bolts. I can definitely see myself crunching down with a wrench, to make sure it's not loose.
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
- Manny
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1190
- Joined: Wed Oct 04, 2006 7:15 pm
- Location: Georgia, Lake City
- Contact:
Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"
Wow just saw those man talking about paper thin!!!
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).
- Dr Farnsworth
- New Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Sun Mar 30, 2014 6:45 pm
- Location: Bentonville AR
Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"
Get a tire up in the air and rotate the driveshaft back and forth by hand while you have the truck in gear or park (motor off and on a jack stand). Look and and feel for any movement on each of the U-joints. If there is any movement you need to replace the joint.
Replace if the U-joint won't take any grease. It can be a sign of rust or contamination in the U-joint.
Unfortunately, this does not work 100% of the time, so use any random excuse as a reason to replace a U-joint.
I had a front one fail on me years ago, it destroyed the ENTIRE drive-train, engine, all the way to the rear axle.
Replace if the U-joint won't take any grease. It can be a sign of rust or contamination in the U-joint.
Unfortunately, this does not work 100% of the time, so use any random excuse as a reason to replace a U-joint.
I had a front one fail on me years ago, it destroyed the ENTIRE drive-train, engine, all the way to the rear axle.
1969 F100 ranger (for sale)
1978 F250 Ranger 4X4
1966 F100
1978 F250 Ranger 4X4
1966 F100
-
- Blue Oval Fanatic
- Posts: 852
- Joined: Wed Nov 09, 2016 5:49 pm
- Location: Galion, Ohio
Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"
Dr Farnsworth wrote:Get a tire up in the air and rotate the driveshaft back and forth by hand while you have the truck in gear or park (motor off and on a jack stand). Look and and feel for any movement on each of the U-joints. If there is any movement you need to replace the joint.
Replace if the U-joint won't take any grease. It can be a sign of rust or contamination in the U-joint.
Unfortunately, this does not work 100% of the time, so use any random excuse as a reason to replace a U-joint.
I had a front one fail on me years ago, it destroyed the ENTIRE drive-train, engine, all the way to the rear axle.
After losing a rear one between Cheyenne and Rawlins Wyoming years ago when I would go to visit family in Idaho I ALWAYS replace them on any vehicle I get that has them no matter they look good and/or take grease......there is nothing between those 2 cities and did manage to limp it (at 40 mph on I-80) into Rawlins where it cost me $140 to have both u joints replaced...... After that experience I look at it as cheap insurance and piece of mind.........
"Life is a garden - dig it"...........
1968 F100 2wd - Rangoon Red - 360 w/T18 - power steering and brakes
1997 Honda CBR 900RR
1968 F100 2wd - Rangoon Red - 360 w/T18 - power steering and brakes
1997 Honda CBR 900RR